Shower drains into black tank

[charliem]

Gary, 
I think you're better off keeping the gray and black totally separate. Once the gray begins overflowing into the black you're losing the benefit of dumping the gray on the ground because the black may also be nearing capacity. Keeping them separate retains the warning you get when the shower backs up, at which point you have the option of the bucket transfer or dump. Either way you should consider installing SeeLevel gauges while you've got everything exposed. The 4 LED OEM level sensors are essentially useless. If you install  SeeLevel gauges and run the gallon jug calibration sequence you will have a good idea where you are before the tanks back up. 

[Gary M]

The bottom trim is removed but the way they ran the pipe is blocking access to the drain to disconnect it. You would need some really skinny arms to fit over the pipe.

[Gary M]

Gary, 
I think you're better off keeping the gray and black totally separate.

Agreed. I'm just looking for the simplest fix at this point. Instead of the bucket method, I just ordered one of these twist on gate valves to dump gray into black. watched a video on it, seems pretty simple and I would just remove the valve when not using it for this process.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGHYJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seelevel monitors have been on my "to do list". And yea, I'll probably just order it now since i have the underbelly down.

Here's a picture I found, that will be similar to my new plan... I just need to find that fitting and some hose still.

[Merlin]

In an earlier post, I may have made removal of the shower pan sound more difficult than it is. It's just time-consuming because you have to remove the bottom trim all the way around the shower. That would allow easy access to the drain, so it's worth consideration.

When I wrote that removing the bottom trim allows easy access, I meant that removing the bottom trim all the way around the base of the shower stall inside allows removal of the shower pan, which would then allow easy access to the drain plumbing. Is the pipe in your photo in the way of getting to the shower drain hole such that you can't even take the pipe off the shower pan? In at least one of the photos, it looks like you can get to the shower drain fitting just ahead of the HepvO valve, so you can access it to remove it and therefore remove the shower pan.

[Gary M]

No I can't reach the shower drain. The one photo is deceiving because I stuck my phone over the pipe to take the picture. I can fit the phone but not my arm. If you look at the pipe picture you can see a coupler in the middle of a section of pipe. I think they glued this part in last.. effectively blocking access to the drain. This is why I'm going to remove the furnace and cut an access hole in the azdel to reach it. The hole will be hidden and I would rather do this than cut the pipe. I can't lift the shower pan up with the drain still connected.

[Gary M]

Ohhh I misread what you were saying Merlin. I thought you meant the bottom panel. I'll try removing those trim pieces and see if I can pry it up enough to access the drain underneath to disconnect it and remove the shower pan.

[charliem]

Agreed. I'm just looking for the simplest fix at this point. Instead of the bucket method, I just ordered one of these twist on gate valves to dump gray into black. watched a video on it, seems pretty simple and I would just remove the valve when not using it for this process.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGHYJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seelevel monitors have been on my "to do list". And yea, I'll probably just order it now since i have the underbelly down.

Here's a picture I found, that will be similar to my new plan... I just need to find that fitting and some hose still.

Point one: I think I'd use a bucket to transfer gray from the outside dump valve to the toilet before I used the twist on blade valve method. The twist on valve method is an old trick but it does contaminate the gray tank whereas a few 3-5 gal buckets full will usually do the job and is completely controllable.
 
Point two: The SeeLevel gauges are worth every penny but there are some tricks. Install the two waste gauge strips as high on the tanks as possible and the one on the fresh tank as low as possible.  I even went a bit closer to the edge than SeeLevel recommends. You are really only interested in the full waste tanks and the empty FW tank. Do run a trial with the gauge strips secured with masking or duct tape first. You only get one shot with the 3M super adhesive. 
Point three: I admire your courage, knowledge, and perseverance. You were dealt a bad hand but I'm convinced you'll come out OK. All I can say is better thee than me  .

[Merlin]

Gary, There is a heavy plastic support under the shower pan that may limit your ability to get at the drain without being able to disconnect the fitting first. For sure try it, but I figured I should flag that as a limiter.

And, the sage (CharlieM) speaks truth when he says to use duct tape on the SeeLevel sensors first. "Do run a trial with the gauge strips secured with masking or duct tape first. You only get one shot with the 3M super adhesive." I of course didn't follow that advice and had to buy 2 new sensors when the first set didn't work for the black and grey tanks. 

[charliem]

Sage? I've got some of that growing in my garden! 

[Gary M]

Great info from you guys as usual! I'll definitely do the tape method first with the seelevel strips. I haven't made my way back outside to the trailer yet today.. I work pretty slow now that I'm retired  . I'll work for an hour or two, and come back inside and surf the web or something. I have plenty of time to finish this.

Again, I really do appreciate all the tips from you guys!

[Gary M]

Point two: The SeeLevel gauges are worth every penny but there are some tricks. Install the two waste gauge strips as high on the tanks as possible and the one on the fresh tank as low as possible.  I even went a bit closer to the edge than SeeLevel recommends. You are really only interested in the full waste tanks and the empty FW tank.

I'll probably just do the 2 waste tanks for now. I want to get some new support braces fabricated for the FW tank first. It sags all over the place around the factory braces when it's full.

[charliem]

I'll probably just do the 2 waste tanks for now. I want to get some new support braces fabricated for the FW tank first. It sags all over the place around the factory braces when it's full.

Good move.

[Gary M]

Ok here it is..

And thank you for suggesting the trim removal first Merlin! I was able to pry the tub up more to fit my arm over the pipe and disconnect the hepvO. Saved me from cutting my furnace wires. (That's all I had left to pull it out)

The "funny" valve is a flapper type check valve with the arrow pointing backwards. It's a Canadian valve...

[charliem]

Ok here it is..

The "funny" valve is a flapper type check valve with the arrow pointing backwards. It's a Canadian valve...

So the arrow is pointing against the intended flow direction? Must be a Canadian thing 

[Gary M]

So that old piping will be easy to cap off with a plug. Only concern with it now is that since it wont be supported at the other end, it will bounce a lot down the road and put stress on the vent pipe/tank flange and could cause a potential leak. I don't want to cut the pipe in case I ever wanted to restore it back to how it was for whatever reason.

I was thinking of maybe wedging some foam underneath it after the tub is back in. Any other ideas?