2018 21BHS fuse issue

[Gary M]

Fuses aren't labeled so I started pulling them one at a time to see what all they power. Got down to the "yellow"(4rth down from the top), and noticed the overhead lights went dim, but didn't go out completely. This was the only fuse that affected the lighting so it looks like I have some stray voltage coming from somewhere, and some troubleshooting to do. Anyone else have any issues similar to this with their 2018 21BHS wiring?

[tbrady]

Which power center do you have?  First guess is that the fuse could be related to the converter supplying power to the DC panel and it started drawing from the battery supply instead? 

[Steve Sanders]

The 12v power source (battery or power supply) is "upstream" of the fuses, so the source of the power would not be a factor with what's described.

My 2010 LL and a 2018 model are probably not very comparable, but the problem is probably where the multi-colored wires coming from the power supply are connected to the camper wiring. On my 2010 6.0, this was a nightmare of twisted wires and electrical tape that provided opportunity for the problem you describe.

The picture is how I rewired mine. This is from my 8.1. Using terminal strips eliminates the possibility of circuit bleed (at least in that location) and makes a much neater installation. I've got one bridged terminal strip for negative connections and one unbridged for the positive circuits.

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[DavidM]

LED lights take very little current to show a dim light, probably no more than a few milliamps. So it won't take much leakage to show a dim light.

Cleaning up the wiring as Steve did above is a good start at fixing it although I wouldn't consider a little leakage to be a serious problem.

You might try bridging that circuit temporarily with an incandescent 12V automotive light. I'll bet the resistance of that bulb will kill the dim light in the LEDs.

David

[Gary M]

I haven't had a chance to dig into it yet, spent yesterday scraping old sealant and applying new stuff on my tub from my plumbing project. I'll try and take a look at it today and report what I find.

Oh and I have the garbage WFCO 8735 converter, which only charged my batteries at 15a max, and is why I installed the Cotek 50a charger when I upgraded my batteries. The DC passthrough fuse is further down (right above the reverse polarity fuse). It's the big green "Cole Hersee Type I Circuit Breaker 30 Amp" in the picture.

[Gary M]

LED lights take very little current to show a dim light, probably no more than a few milliamps. So it won't take much leakage to show a dim light.

Cleaning up the wiring as Steve did above is a good start at fixing it although I wouldn't consider a little leakage to be a serious problem.

You might try bridging that circuit temporarily with an incandescent 12V automotive light. I'll bet the resistance of that bulb will kill the dim light in the LEDs.

David

While having the fuse removed for the lights(putting them in dim mode), I tried pulling other fuses out 1 at a time to see which circuit wiring was bleeding over. Ultimately the only fuse that totally killed the lights was the big 30a passthru fuse above the reverse polarity fuse. This is leading me to believe the leak is somewhere on the fuse board itself. The lights are very dim, so yea its gotta be just milliamps, and it's not something that I'll keep pursuing at this time. I did clean up, secure, and inspect all the wiring behind the converter recently when I installed my EMS, and I remember noticing this issue when i first bought the trailer, so i know its not from anything i did with any wiring. It's just something that I'll live with for now until I need to replace the converter.