Hot Water Heater

Merlin · October 22, 2017, 10:57:17 PM

In winterizing the camper today, I flushed a lot of crap (technical term there) out of the hot water heater. The anode rod was corroded almost all the way through, so I have new replacement ready to go in. In my enthusiasm for getting the inside clean, I used maybe too high a pressure spray from my hose and some pretty big stuff came out, including what looked like might be insulation

. Since I have no way of knowing if I damaged it internally and new ones are only about $350, I think I'll just go with new. The one in there is LP only (Suburban 6 gallon) but I see that Suburban makes the same size and spec water heater with both LP and electric. My camper already has the 120VAC wiring to the water heater cabinet, so I would only have to change the water heater and add a switch for the electric element. The dual heat source model is $100 more. If this is reasonable idea, I would be making the change to take advantage of the electricity at campgrounds I've already paid for and to save on propane. And, I don't want the expense and hassle of installing an instant hot water heater, like a Truma.

My question is for those who already have the dual heat source water heater (gas/electric). Do you use the water heater on electric much? Does it have fast enough recovery to be useful? Do you switch back and forth on heat source often?

charliem · October 23, 2017, 10:20:30 AM

The answers to you questions are yes, yes, and yes in that order

. We use the electric option anytime 120 is available. Recovery time on electricity alone is about the same as on gas but both can be used simultaneously. This cuts the recovery time roughly in half if electricity is available. The heater controls are such that, if both sources are available, the heater will use gas and electric to heat but will maintain the temperature using only electricity until a lot of water is used. This means no gas is used to maintain ready hot water and for moderate usage but the gas kicks in for dish washing and longer showers. IMO all campers should come stock with the dual mode WH.

Merlin · October 23, 2017, 01:43:52 PM

Thanks, just what I needed! I found the gas/electric drop-in replacement (except for needing the electric switch installed) available as the Suburban SW6DE for less than $350 and I can easily do the install myself, so that's what I'll do. Since the electric is already in the water heater cabinet, I suspect LL expected replacements to be the dual heat source.

gbpack · October 23, 2017, 03:12:59 PM

Ditto to what Charlie said. We almost always use the water heater on electricity since we almost always have electicity at our sites. The water heater works very well on electricity and recovers quickly after a shower. If it's only $100 more to get the dual type (and you already have the electrical connection available), then I would go for it!

nhlakes · April 21, 2018, 06:44:04 PM

I realized today that I am unsure how the SW6DE works. The guy who went over the camper with me just said 'turn the WH on here' pointing to the switch inside that has the reset light. I've had LP WHs before but never an LP/Elec model. Honestly thought it was referring to electric start at first.

I didn't receive a WH manual with all my manuals, so I found one online, and it still wasn't clear.

But the following helped...

Quote from: charliem on October 23, 2017, 10:20:30 AM
... The heater controls are such that, if both sources are available, the heater will use gas and electric to heat but will maintain the temperature using only electricity until a lot of water is used. This means no gas is used to maintain ready hot water and for moderate usage but the gas kicks in for dish washing and longer showers. ...

So, when the water heater is turned on with the wall switch in the kitchen, the WH will turn on with LP. If AC is available, the WH will also use AC to help offload the LP usage. Is this correct?

The online manual I found states:

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
FOR UNITS WITH ELECTRIC ELEMENT Electric water heaters are designed to operate with a minimum amount of service problems; however, proper operation and care is essential.

By far the most common trouble with electric water heaters results from energizing the water heater before it is filled with water. Even brief operation of the electric element without water in the tank will burn-out the electric heating element.

To energize the electric heating element, turn the switch to "ON". The switch is located behind the water heater door in the lower left corner of the control housing. The water temperature will be regulated by the thermostat.

The picture they show next to that switch paragraph above shows a drawing of the wall switch on the Camplites....

Is there another switch I need to be concerned about?

Merlin · April 21, 2018, 09:33:38 PM

Zip over to the current Unuseable Freshwater thread to see a photo of the outside switch for the electric element. The outside switch is the only one needed for the water heater to operate on electric. The switch plate you posted in only for LP operation. The switch operates the 12V ignitor for the LP and that light stays on only until the water heater burner lights on propane. When you turn off the switch, the water heater can no longer ignite the burner with 12V, so that turns off the heater.

On the thread I mentioned above, you will also see a link to the SW6DE water heater installation and operating manual. I can't believe the dealer/LL didn't supply that with the camper. A basic manual is so important to safe operation for all the appliances, providing them should be a requirement under the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association certification program.

Here's the link to the above thread:

https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=452.msg6246#new

nhlakes · April 22, 2018, 06:49:12 AM

Thanks Merlin. I'd been following the 'unusable freshwater' thread but posted the question above in this WH thread prior to catching up with the dive into the WH discussion in the 'unusable freshwater' thread.... You're correct. Most of the answers are now there. Will look for the little switch inside the WH area as soon as the sun comes up.

Thanks again for the help.

Fatdog2 · April 24, 2018, 01:05:52 PM

My 2014 21 BHS has Suburban SW6D gas water heater. In the future if I need to change it and put in dual gas / electric, it looks like I would need to run 110v to electric element. From owners manual it looks like I need to tap into 15amp breaker? It states the electric element 120v AC, single phase - 1440 watt element -60 cycles. total connected watts =1440 - AMPS =12. I would have to run a 110 circuit from main power box under the refrigerator to water heater. Anyone change water heater on 21 BHS?

charliem · April 24, 2018, 07:48:47 PM

The SW6DE should be a drop in replacement. You will have to add a 15A breaker. Do not tap onto an existing breaker. If necessary you can buy dual breakers that fit in the space on one full sized breaker. The early 21s had an illuminated red toggle switch mounted inside near the kitchen to control the electric element. While not absolutely necessary it was/is very convenient. It is a standard household toggle with a red light to indicate power on. Thor deleted it because it was "confusing".

ADR · April 24, 2018, 08:30:45 PM

You want confusing? My 16TBS has 3 ways to turn the electric element in the water heater off!
The circuit breaker
The switch on the WH
The switch on the status panel- oddly placed in the bathroom.

I keep all 3 off as a safety since we rarely camp with electric hookup.

Steve Sanders · April 24, 2018, 08:58:08 PM

Quote from: ADR on April 24, 2018, 08:30:45 PM
You want confusing? My 16TBS has 3 ways to turn the electric element in the water heater off!
The circuit breaker
The switch on the WH
The switch on the status panel- oddly placed in the bathroom.

I keep all 3 off as a safety since we rarely camp with electric hookup.

It's a safety feature. These days, if one safety device is good, three has GOT to be better!!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Merlin · April 24, 2018, 10:22:45 PM

Quote from: Fatdog2 on April 24, 2018, 01:05:52 PM
My 2014 21 BHS has Suburban SW6D gas water heater. In the future if I need to change it and put in dual gas / electric, it looks like I would need to run 110v to electric element. From owners manual it looks like I need to tap into 15amp breaker? It states the electric element 120v AC, single phase - 1440 watt element -60 cycles. total connected watts =1440 - AMPS =12. I would have to run a 110 circuit from main power box under the refrigerator to water heater. Anyone change water heater on 21 BHS?

I'm in the process of trading my SW6D water heater for a SW6DE this week. It's an easy, drop-in replacement, just like @charliem wrote. If you have a dedicated (single CB) outlet on the side of the cabinet where the water heater is, you already have 120VAC right there. In my 16TBS, the outlet in the water heater cabinet was on it's own circuit, so LL must have run 120VAC there for use with a gas/electric water heater and then bailed out with just a gas model, leaving the 120VAC available for an outlet. For my installation, I'm using that 120VAC line, routing through a lighted switch (when on) in place of the outlet, then to the water heater. I'll just leave the switch on the water heater itself permanently on and use the lighted switch inside for the heater (and then re-lable the CB).

nhlakes · April 25, 2018, 06:23:32 AM

Quote from: Merlin on April 24, 2018, 10:22:45 PM
... For my installation, I'm using that 120VAC line, routing through a lighted switch (when on) in place of the outlet, then to the water heater. I'll just leave the switch on the water heater itself permanently on and use the lighted switch inside for the heater (and then re-lable the CB).

Considering something similar as a future mod.

Diversteve · April 25, 2018, 08:19:22 AM

I am really confused now.
My 14DBS came with a water heater only.
And why would you want to heat hot water?

Fatdog2 · April 25, 2018, 11:31:24 AM

Diversteve, Sunbeam makes a gas water heater and gas with 120v electrical element heater, dual mode water heater so you can save on gas. Did I say gas... yup I got gas... my tanks are full. That's a great idea in adding a switch and outlet to control the electric element of gas / electric water heater. I would have to run electric 120v to put in dual heat source unit that would be a nice option.