On-Off winterizing

[nolichuckyjake]

I live in the piedmont region of NC--near, but not in, the mountains.  We regularly get temps into the 20s in Jan-Feb, and can see lows in single digits during the winter. 

We plan to use our 16DBS through the winter, maybe taking trips to the coast, to Florida, and possibly to the southwest, so winterizing may be done several times each year, and may want/need to winterize on the road.

My thinking is that I will do the compressed air bit, supplemented with antifreeze in P-traps.  Will be carrying a pancake compressor and a generator.   I understand the Dometic toilet valve tends to retain a little water and is thus subject to breakage.  I've bought an extra valve in case it does break.

I've thought of disconnecting the supply line, sucking out reachable water, and squirting in as much antifreeze as it will hold.  Could remove it altogether, though that's a bit more work, and I imagine the plastic wouldn't hold up for very many removals/installs.

I would like to hear how others have dealt with this.

Thanks.

[DavidM]

I can only speak for my LL, a 16TBS, but I suspect that it is representative of all of them- they are designed for simple drain down winterizing. A compressor is not necessary. With two exceptions, the flush valve and the fresh water pump all of the plumbing will drain down by gravity.

If you drain the fresh water tank, open the faucets so they can drain back, open the hot and cold drains under the water heater, crack the winterizing heater bypass if you have one so it drains, open the strainer to the fresh water pump and dump that water, break the discharge and run the pump dry for a few seconds then the system is 99% winterized.

The only other thing that needs to be done is to protect the flush valve. The little hose from the valve to the toilet rim stays full even after draining down the system and will freeze and break the body in low temps. So I disconnect the tube, remove the valve and blow it dry (by mouth- blow in the inlet while holding down the flush button) and put a little antifreeze inside afterwards and blow that out. Oh and put a cup of antifreeze in the shower and sink traps.

All of the above can be done in ten minutes after all of the water has drained out. So that is what I would do in between winter camping trips. You don't need a compressor and a gallon of antifreeze will last for several winterizings.

David

[Diversteve]

We have a 14 DBS.
It is the pockets of water and valves that concern me.
I drain, then blow out the lines, then pump the system full of antifreeze.
There is a simple valve that you plumb into your system (a simple install) that allows you to use the fresh water pump to fill the lines.
Two gallons of anti freeze, about $4.00 a gallon at Wal Mart and you have no worries.

[Iceman14]

I'm right there with ya Diversteve !  The valve to add RV Antifreeze to all the lines is the way to go !  It takes me less than 5min to close the hot water tank (to isolate it from the antifreeze) and draw the Antifreeze into all the lines.  My procedure is this: drain the hot water heater from the outside, then go inside and close the Hot Water heater valves, open the HWH bypass valve,  rotate the Antifreeze suction valve, Place suction line into RV Antifreeze bottle, turn ON Water Pump, then open faucets one by one until the pink antifreeze comes out. when all faucets are filled with antifreeze, you're done and the traps will retain some antifreeze from the  bleeding process.  I live in N Texas and its been frequently dropping into the single digits and teens.  It literally took me longer to type this procedure than to actually complete the winterization task. It might be a good idea to open the outside water drain valves briefly to make sure they are protected also.  Turn off the pump and rotate the suction valve to the normal position.  In the spring, just be sure completely flush all water lines.  My 30 Ft Axxess uses about 1 1/2 gallons to complete the winterizing process.