Rear Bumper

Started by pjcd, July 05, 2017, 04:55:32 PM

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pjcd

Finally getting the repairs done on the frame, I'm going to add to the rear bumper so I can attach my bike rack and was wondering if anyone knows what grade aluminum is used in the frame. I'll post some pic's when its done. Also, I removed all the wiring from the rears lights and was considering re-routing it on the outside, it would make it easier to reinstall, has anyone gone that rout?

charliem

#1
Quote from: pjcd on July 05, 2017, 04:55:32 PM
....................... and was wondering if anyone knows what grade aluminum is used in the frame.
A starting point would be alloys 6061 or 6063 at tempers at T6 or T5. Wall thickness should be 1/8".

https://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material74.html

Any 20 minute job can be stretched to a week with proper planning

Charlie
Northern Colorado
2014 21RBS
2013 Tacoma supercharged 4.0L V6
E2 WDH, P3 controller

Merlin

#2
Here is what I was planning to use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H9L68Y/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2OQHIWNAQFFO&colid=X72I9ZO5GJMI


I agree that routing wire on the outside would make it easier. That's a really messy pile of wiring in those frames back there. What would be the best way to protect it from water/abrasion?
Michigan

pjcd

#3
I would put it in a wire loom and use rubber coated clamps to hold it in place.

pjcd

Quote from: charliem on July 05, 2017, 06:32:31 PM
Quote from: pjcd on July 05, 2017, 04:55:32 PM
....................... and was wondering if anyone knows what grade aluminum is used in the frame.
A starting point would be alloys 6061 or 6063 at tempers at T6 or T5. Wall thickness should be 1/8".

https://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material74.html




Thanks for the info

Merlin

Couple things.

The clamp type connectors LL uses in wiring don't like to stay wet. Eventually they will corrode and lose the connection if they are wet a lot. And absolutely they don't like salt. They last about 5 minutes in winter driving on salty roads. Anyway, whenever you have the opportunity, replace those connectors with good butt connectors that have heat shrink covers to keep them dry.

And, the standard home center wire loom has no resistance to UV damage. I used that on my utility trailer wiring and wherever it's exposed to the sun, it is rotted and cracked. If you go with that, at the very least paint it or keep it out of the sun.
Michigan

PaulJ

Sounds crazy; but on my other utility trailer I just rewired and used plain old garden hose.  It seems unaffected by sun for years, cuts easy and you can get all sorts of fittings that will fit.  Or you can spend more and get weatherproof flexible conduit at any of the big box or hardware stores with weatherproof fittings.  Living lite used the weatherproof conduit in several places on my 21RBS.

pjcd

Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best.  :)

pjcd

Well, the welder I am using decided he needed a vacation, (the nerve of the guy). Should be back Monday or Tuesday, so, I'm just prepping the trailer, Pulled all the wiring and bought the bumper. The bumper was $57, (6' section) delivered to the house.

pjcd

#9
I was taking the trailer over to the shop to have the repairs done and I had no power to the jack, or the inside lights, (yes, battery was hooked up). I had removed the tail lights in preparation for the welder and capped off the leads, well apparently in order to get power back, I had to re-connect the tail lights, I just zip tied them to the frame.
Now my question is, is this normal, I'm not much on electrical issues, but it seemed strange that I would loose all 12 volt power because the lights weren't connected.

Btw, the welding shop is around the corner, so, I figured I could get away with no lights for the short drive over.

Merlin

Quote from: pjcd on July 23, 2017, 11:30:30 AM
I was taking the trailer over to the shop to have the repairs done and I had no power to the jack, or the inside lights, (yes, battery was hooked up). I had removed the tail lights in preparation for the welder and capped off the leads, well apparently in order to get power back, I had to re-connect the tail lights, I just zip tied them to the frame.
Now my question is, is this normal, I'm not much on electrical issues, but it seemed strange that I would loose all 12 volt power because the lights weren't connected.

Btw, the welding shop is around the corner, so, I figured I could get away with no lights for the short drive over.

I don't think there is nothing in the wiring of my camper that would cut off all 12VDC power just by not having the tail lights connected, but I have to admit I did not try that scenario because when I did my taillight work, I had the power off. If you had that experience and got power back by reconnecting the tail lights (and no fuses were blown), I can only assume it had something to do with the 12VDC grounding. How odd.
Michigan

pjcd

I have a question to throw out there, I'm having the repairs done on the trailer and the welder suggested adding gussets to the sponsons. These would be welded to the main beam on the trailer. Any thoughts on this?

Powder Hounds

Regarding your frame support welds.

Our trailer had to be serviced in the field  for cracked welds around the outside perimeter frame. In short, the field repairs held up till we were able to have our dealer inspect the frame. The conclusion was to ship our unit back to LL for the repairs. They added some extra welds and inspected our frame but did not install any additional frame supports. Wish they did for piece of mind. I believe lots of owners checked their rigs for failed welds after my posts but very few owners had the same issues as our rig. We had other issues and LL did step up and fixed everything that was required. They even fixed our failed sail switch in the back of the furnace. That was a few hundred dollars worth of service.

Good luck!

pjcd

Thanks for the input. I post some pic's of the work when its done.

pjcd

The bumper is now done.