2 -(6v) batteries vs 2 (12v) batteries

[thedusty]

That is the one. I bought mine from Amazon as well and I suppose if it doesn't work I can return it. But the aggravation is more significant than the $30 ;-).

David

Thank you. 

I now understand why you guys wanted me to get the "better" solar controllers.  But I figure since the LCD is a bonus, I'll take the risk on the cheaper stuff and see how it goes.

I ordered the 100' cable as well.

So now I have:
- Solar charge controller
- Solar panel
- Cable

I need to fill in the gaps and make sure I'm doing everything else correctly. 

This is the solar panel I already had.  I picked up a while ago while it was on a big sale.  I'm betting I'll quickly learn it's junk...so let me have it.  If it is junk, I can replace it down the line.

https://www.amazon.com/SunPower-Flexible-Connector-Charging-Compatibility/dp/B01DXYNGA0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498085778&sr=8-1&keywords=suaoki+flexible

In their diagram, it appears I need to add in a serious of fuses for protection.  Is this correct?  Is there a standard process for this I need to follow?

Also, my 2016 21BHS has a Zamp input on the side.  I've attached a pic.  Should I utilize this?  Or is there a better solution?

Sorry for all the newbie questions.  I'm still reading a lot online but I'm still trying to piece together the basics of how this all hooks together.

[DavidM]

Ok, this is how I would hook it all up if you have two panels:

Get a  MC4 y-adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Branch-Solar-Parallel-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00V5XU74U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498090902&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=parallel+mc4+connector&psc=1

Plug your positive outputs of the two panels into one and the negatives into the other. Then cut off the single pos and neg branches and splice your 100' cable to it with yellow butt connectors which are suitable for 10 gauge wire.

Then on the other, RV end, buy one of these and cut it in two halves: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057ZQJ12/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3SWULPLORRIPP&colid=3RQ44LC06SQ2O

Now making sure that the male/female polarity is correct for the Zamp connector on your trailer, splice the appropriate end to the other end of your 100' cable.

Then look inside your trailer for where the Zamp connector is located. Hopefully you can find a cabinet where the back of the Zamp connector is located. Otherwise look at where the wire comes out of the back of the Zamp connector and probably drops down underneath the trailer. Then cut those wires and find a place where you can feed the Zamp end up into the bottom of a cabinet. Put your controller inside the cabinet, splice the wires to it's input then run a short length of wire to it's output and run it underneath and splice it to the wires that go to the DC controller.

The point is that you want to keep the controller dry, tucked in someplace inside in a cabinet.

I realize that the foregoing explanation might not fit your situation exactly but hopefully you can adapt and hook it up similar to my explanation.

David

[Merlin]

That flexible solar panel is cool. Report back on how that works out.

Fuses are good. Here's a common type to splice into the + wires. One between the panel and controller and one between the controller and battery would not be a bad thing.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Water-resistant-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR88A/ref=sr_1_4?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1498131290&sr=8-4&keywords=fuse+holder+10+gauge&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

[DavidM]

There is no need to fuse the circuit between the panels and the controller. Solar panels are inherently self limiting in current generation and 200 watts of panels will only produce about 15 amps if the wire is completely shorted. The 10 gauge wire that you are planning to use is good for at least 40 amps continuously.

Also make sure that the wire inside the trailer from the external Zamp connector is 10 gauge. If it is smaller the solar panels won't perform well due to voltage drop in a smaller wire.

You do need a fuse to protect the wire at the battery. AFAIK there is no fuse at the battery in LL campers and this is a big safety deficiency as if the wire from the battery shorts, hundreds of amps of current can flow through it and cause a fire.

The fuse holder that Merlin referenced and a 30A fuse would provide protection at the battery. I picked 30A because that is what the battery charging wire from the TV is rated for and the 12V loads from the trailer should be much less than 30A.

So that is the only place where you need a fuse. The individual 12V circuits are fused in the converter panel as the wire used for these branches is 12 or 14 gauge.

David

[thedusty]

Thank you again guys. I appreciate it.

[Paul]

In fact, I just invested a couple thousand dollars in 6 volt (GC2) batteries for the solar charging station I use for my plug-in hybrid car. Great info on this site!

Your Tundra won't notice the extra 60 lbs, if you go with 2 batteries!

What kind of plug in hybrid do you have? I was looking at them a while ago and they seem really cool, I live close to work to it would work well for me. I probably won't be getting one anytime soon but in a couple of years that could be a good option for me!

[Merlin]

In fact, I just invested a couple thousand dollars in 6 volt (GC2) batteries for the solar charging station I use for my plug-in hybrid car. Great info on this site!

Your Tundra won't notice the extra 60 lbs, if you go with 2 batteries!

What kind of plug in hybrid do you have? I was looking at them a while ago and they seem really cool, I live close to work to it would work well for me. I probably won't be getting one anytime soon but in a couple of years that could be a good option for me!

We have a 2017 Ford Fusion Energi. We bought it used off a corporate lease early last spring. The dealer gave us a full tank of gas and even though we use it everyday for all our local driving, we have not purchased any gas yet; it still has 2/3s of a tank! The only time the gas engine has started was on the trip home from the dealer an hour+ away. Otherwise, it's been in all electric mode and we just charge it up each evening. It gets about 25 miles per charge in electric mode. The bonus is that it's a nice car too!

[thedusty]

In fact, I just invested a couple thousand dollars in 6 volt (GC2) batteries for the solar charging station I use for my plug-in hybrid car. Great info on this site!

Your Tundra won't notice the extra 60 lbs, if you go with 2 batteries!

What kind of plug in hybrid do you have? I was looking at them a while ago and they seem really cool, I live close to work to it would work well for me. I probably won't be getting one anytime soon but in a couple of years that could be a good option for me!

We have a 2017 Ford Fusion Energi. We bought it used off a corporate lease early last spring. The dealer gave us a full tank of gas and even though we use it everyday for all our local driving, we have not purchased any gas yet; it still has 2/3s of a tank! The only time the gas engine has started was on the trip home from the dealer an hour+ away. Otherwise, it's been in all electric mode and we just charge it up each evening. It gets about 25 miles per charge in electric mode. The bonus is that it's a nice car too!

At some point in the next year I want to add a used Nissan Leaf as a third car. You can get them used for about $7k if you hunt. They are all electric and can do about 70-80 miles...which more than covers the vast majority of our daily local driving. We will keep the Tundra for trips and towing. Beyond new wiper blades they don't require much maintenance. The brakes apparently even last forever since it's mostly doing regenerative breaking.

[Merlin]

If only we knew someone who could talk Amazon into selling electric cars.............

[thedusty]

If only we knew someone who could talk Amazon into selling electric cars.............

I'll let you know what Bezos says.

They do have some rockets you can rent at Blue Origin right now though...

[GoElectric]

Definitely give a new or used Chevy Volt a try for those interested in electric cars. We have had ours coming up on 6 years with over 100,00 trouble free miles with no degradation of the batteries with the proactive battery management system and they drive great.

[Powder Hounds]

Perfect thread!

I finally got around to make this adjustment, cleaned the fridge compartment up as well. Tree needles and lots of dust and dirt.

Thank you all!

PS We installed a master kill switch for our stereo last year, now with the frame heater eliminated we have no unnecessary power draws.