Rear Deck/Storage Option

[PYG RYDR]

Anyone use this product and modify it to add options for carrying a generator, etc?

The product appears to be designed for use with steel trailer frames, and may not be able to be modified for CL use.

http://mount-n-lock.com/mnl-cargo-products/4square-cargo-products-for-square-rv-bumpers/product/74-4square-safetystruts-ultralight-aluminum-4-inch-rv-replacement-bumper-kit

[charliem]

IMHO it's a bit of a kludge. You would have to cut off the existing bumper and mount directly to the AL frame members of the CL. Then you would have everything depending upon the bolts through the frame. Certainly not as good as a welded installation. If you just want a way to carry the sewer tube there are easier ways. If you want to carry bikes there are MUCH better ways. If you're going to the trouble of cutting off the existing bumper why not just get the extra AL 2x4 welded properly on and be done with it. Search the old forum archives provided on this forum for recommendations.

[TLBones]

I agree with charliem about the replacement bumper deal.   Year before last I talked to the company owner about the safetystrut bracket product for my 16DB at the Hershey RV show.    The tail lights were in the way so he really didn't have any practical solution for me at that time.

[Merlin]

Interesting concept. I had not seen that aluminum one. It reminded me a bit of some other research I've been doing on adding a 2" receiver for my bike rack. Here is one from Curt I did some measuring on and I think it would carry the receiver too low on my Camplite. However, I think it would be a strong, frame bolt-on solution if through-bolts were used.

http://www.etrailer.com/RV-Hitch/Curt/13703.html

Welding a reinforcing aluminum 2X4 to the inside of the rear bumper is the preferred way to go, but only if you can find a competent welder and also take the time to remove the wiring from the frame and current bumper before welding. I can imagine that if all the wires/connectors stuffed tightly in those areas are left during welding, there would be some messy melting and short circuits. Take the plug off the bumper end and you'll see what I mean!

[pjcd]

That looks to be a alternative, but, I agree, it looks like it would hang low on the frame.

[charliem]

The nice thing about the welded enhancement is it lets you install the Swagman receiver on top of the bumper.

[Merlin]

The nice thing about the welded enhancement is it lets you install the Swagman receiver on top of the bumper.

Sigh. I guess I'll have to get the wires out of the way and haul the trailer over to the welding place. It would be good to have the receiver on top.

[PYG RYDR]

Thanks everyone for your comments/suggestions.  Looks like adding the extra bumper is the way to go.  My riding buddy's son is a professional welder with a college degree specific to applications; so I guess I will tow 3 hours for a consult and customization. 

[charliem]

Good plan. Make sure he is experienced in aluminum (aluminium?) welding. Take the drawing and pictures. It has to be done right or not at all.

[PYG RYDR]

In my search for pictures/drawings, I was able to source one drawing and one picture.  In the archives from our previous LL Forum, I located Charlies post with 4 picture links, but the links take me to the new LL forum, and no pictures.  Which I thought was odd.

So is there a link available with bumper mod details?

TIA

Galen

[charliem]

Try this http://aluminiumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=260.0

I've been reposting some old stuff. You should see the drawing and enough pictures for anyone with the necessary expertise.

Let me know if you need more.

[PYG RYDR]

Charlie,

Thank you very much!  That is excellent!  I saw your post before, but could not locate it today.

I will let you know when I get it done!

Regards,

Galen

[PYG RYDR]

A friend designed and crafted a steel frame carrier for my Yamaha EF2800I.  There are 2x3"steel sleeves which mount around the bottom of the aluminum frame rails.  And at the rear, there is a 2x2'' thick wall steel bar which carries the generator weight.  The weight and stress is dispersed over ~ 2 foot aluminum frame rails.  The carrier drops into a vertical receiver and is detachable. 

I think this will work great!

[Merlin]

A friend designed and crafted a steel frame carrier for my Yamaha EF2800I.  There are 2x3"steel sleeves which mount around the bottom of the aluminum frame rails.  And at the rear, there is a 2x2'' thick wall steel bar which carries the generator weight.  The weight and stress is dispersed over ~ 2 foot aluminum frame rails.  The carrier drops into a vertical receiver and is detachable. 

I think this will work great!

Pretty cool! Looks like a solid attachment. What does the steel and genny weight at the rear do for the tongue weight at the TV hitch?

[PYG RYDR]

A friend designed and crafted a steel frame carrier for my Yamaha EF2800I.  There are 2x3"steel sleeves which mount around the bottom of the aluminum frame rails.  And at the rear, there is a 2x2'' thick wall steel bar which carries the generator weight.  The weight and stress is dispersed over ~ 2 foot aluminum frame rails.  The carrier drops into a vertical receiver and is detachable. 

I think this will work great!

Pretty cool! Looks like a solid attachment. What does the steel and genny weight at the rear do for the tongue weight at the TV hitch?

Thanks!

Still do not have objective information about tongue weight.  After the carrier fabrication and install, I drove 180 miles home, and my sense was that the tongue was lighter-of course!.  This was with the steel frame and carrier only and without the generator.  I need to check tongue weight with camper loaded, and with and without the generator.  Then I can make adjustments as needed to obtain the 10%/300 pound tongue weight.