Proper Caulking product for Livin Lite aluminum roof

[happyhiker]

I have searched for a thread on this but I didn't find anything specific to the LL aluminum roof (pre Thor dumbing down).  I was wondering if anyone had any experience with a specific caulk product (e.g. Sikaflex, Dicor etc.) that they could recommend?  Also, I am not sure if I need to remove the old caulk or not.  I am not having any problems, but I just wanted to be proactive about it.  I know there are a lot of youtube videos and posts about caulking TPO and rubber roofs, but I was looking for someone who might have specific experience with the Aluminum roof on the Livin Lite.

Thank you.

[charliem]

The pros use Dicor self leveling caulk on the Al surfaces. It's always best to remove old caulking and clean the surfaces before applying new caulk.

[djsamuel]

I've used the Dicor self leveling caulk with no problems. Works great.

[Merlin]

I agree about removing old caulk and cleaning up before using new Dicor Self-leveling lap sealant for a major re-seal, but that's not needed in all circumstances. If you are just sealing a small crack or hole in the current caulk, it can cause more problems that it fixes to remove/re-caulk a large area. I've had great results with a good cleaning using detergent and a final wipe with alcohol, then completely drying the spot, then applying new caulk, all without removing old caulk. The new stuff is very sticky when wet and runs into low places very nicely. If I had a continuous long crack or a large area (like when replacing vents on roofs, etc.) I would scrape off all the old and start over.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Lap-Sealant-10-3/dp/B000BRF7QE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484363751&sr=8-2&keywords=dicor+self-leveling+lap+sealant

[Davidb]

I was so impressed with the seal on my aluminum roof, I contacted Livin Lite and requested to know what product it was.
They said it was Manus Bond, I believe the 76-AM.

http://www.manus.net/products/stp-polyether/76-am/

[pjcd]

On my old trailer, (rubber roof) I used the Decor, worked great. On the seam where the cap met the roof, I used Eternabond, you have to be careful with it, once its down its nearly impossible to get up. I also keep about five feet of it in the trailer for emergency repairs. As with any sealant, gotta have a clean surface to adhere to, I used their spray cleaner and it took off all the grime.

My camplite is only two years old and I haven't had any issues with leaking, (knock on wood, or should I say aluminum).

[happyhiker]

Thanks everyone for the responses.    I neglected to mention that when I went to pick up my trailer at the factory in March of 2014, Don Neufelder (who was a super nice guy) provided me with a number of tubes of caulk.   I am attaching a picture of what he provided.   I never used the caulk and it is probably stale by now, but I do see the Manus 76-AM that Davidb mentioned.  Truthfully, I have no clue which tube of caulk goes where on the trailer and so if anyone has some thoughts that would be great.  I am trying to educate myself on different caulks and sealants and there is a lot to learn.  I did find a good discussion over at the Airstream forum: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456/sealants-summary-116214.html.    I am going to continue my research on the topic but I am somewhat leaning toward the Dicor, but remain undecided.   I appreciate everyone's suggestions.   Just to re-iteriate.  The job I have in mind is more proactive than anything else.  I just want to re-caulk the roof and possibly the orbital front edges.  Of course, once I get this figured out and get good with the caulk gun, I am sure I will be caulking everything on the trailer. 

[Merlin]

I'm not a fan of the silicone caulk LL used on everything other than the roof. On our camper, that caulk is blackening with internal mildew/mold of some sort.

I assume you realize you can't use self-leveling caulk on vertical surfaces! I use 3M marine grade sealers because our colleagues in the boating world have figured out what holds up to extreme conditions and it's all much better stuff that typical residential sealers. Examples:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Grade-Silicone-Sealant/dp/B000H83M4G/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000H83M4G&pd_rd_r=ZPEHAH02ZS8QNGK56JZA&pd_rd_w=y9uqN&pd_rd_wg=jMI8B&psc=1&refRID=ZPEHAH02ZS8QNGK56JZA

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesive-Sealant-Cartridge-06500/dp/B0085GZI6C/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1484408907&sr=1-3&keywords=3m+5200


And, don't use 2-3 year caulk. Get fresh for anything you end up doing.

[DavidM]

Merlin et al:

I am a boater and 3M 5200 is the gold standard of adhesive caulking. It is both a very good adhesive and a good filler caulk. It is so good that it is often difficult to pull off a cleat or something that has been installed with 5200 without tearing up the underlying fiberglas. But it is expensive and it won't fill a wide gap easily. If you want something for filling narrow cracks then 3M makes 4200 which has milder adhesive properties. The rule of thumb is: If you never want to take it off, use 5200. If you may want to remove it someday, use 4200.

I am not sure what I would use to seal the wide gaps underneath the wheel wells. This area doesn't need much adhesion, just bulk sealing. Maybe an expanding urethane foam would work well here.

David

[GoElectric]

I was going to give this a try when my roof seams needed attention.  Not sure if I need to remove the old sealant or not, but probably better to do so. It comes in different widths and will probably go with 2".  My hopes would be it would only need to be done once.  What are you all thoughts or experiences?

http://www.eternabond.com/AlumiBond-p/rv-as.htm

[Merlin]

I was going to give this a try when my roof seams needed attention.  Not sure if I need to remove the old sealant or not, but probably better to do so. It comes in different widths and will probably go with 2".  My hopes would be it would only need to be done once.  What are you all thoughts or experiences?

http://www.eternabond.com/AlumiBond-p/rv-as.htm

I have no experience with it, but see @pjcd post above.

[rideandfly]

Merlin et al:

I am a boater and 3M 5200 is the gold standard of adhesive caulking. It is both a very good adhesive and a good filler caulk. It is so good that it is often difficult to pull off a cleat or something that has been installed with 5200 without tearing up the underlying fiberglass. But it is expensive and it won't fill a wide gap easily. If you want something for filling narrow cracks then 3M makes 4200 which has milder adhesive properties. The rule of thumb is: If you never want to take it off, use 5200. If you may want to remove it someday, use 4200.

David

David,

Appreciate the information. Will give the 3M 4200 a try.

Thanks,

[Paul]

I was going to give this a try when my roof seams needed attention.  Not sure if I need to remove the old sealant or not, but probably better to do so. It comes in different widths and will probably go with 2".  My hopes would be it would only need to be done once.  What are you all thoughts or experiences?

http://www.eternabond.com/AlumiBond-p/rv-as.htm

I was planning to do that on my Popup camper but never did it because I switched to the camplite but I still have a roll of eternabond, I am wondering if I should use it or not since I don't have any leak right now. Mine is not the one that specifically says it's for aluminum but I think I have read somewhere that it was working with it. Any opinions?

[Merlin]

How old is that roll of Eternabond? I ask because I've noticed that caulking materials in general have a shelf life. After a while, they lose key characteristics that make them fail to stick, hard to apply, gooey, stiff, or some combination of those. I've learned not to save caulking materials beyond either 1) the date on the packaging or 2) one year. The prep time and hassles of applying just don't make it worth using old stuff that may not work right or last, IMHO.

[Paul]

It is 2-3 years I think