Torsion hitch

[Cajun]

I've been looing for a way to remove that solid connection between truck and trailer. I find with the standard hitch the connection from the trailer transfer all it's vibrations and bumps to the truck. Also, some roads have the "perfect humps" (not sure how else to explain it) and the truck and trailer get into this bouncing retheme. I found a GenY Torsion hitch, it uses torsion technology like the axels on my RV, so I purchased one. I got to use the hitch on my last trip to Utah and I noticed a difference in the comfort of the ride and no more of that bouncing retheme. I don't use any sway or weight distribution hitches, I really don't need them. Anyone use anything like it or use anything that helps make the ride smoother? I put in a lot of miles on my trips, anything that makes the ride smooth I'm interested in.

[stu1965]

While I do not have a ton of experience towing to know about all the bouncing and clanging (other than a few trips around the block with my boat trailer), I have been using the Shocker Hitch. I found my 1500 mile excursion from CT to FLA a few weeks back to be quiet with minimal bouncing.

I did get the one that allows for a sway control to be added, but I have not installed that yet.

https://shockerhitch.com/products/shocker-air-receiver-hitch/

[Cajun]

While I do not have a ton of experience towing to know about all the bouncing and clanging (other than a few trips around the block with my boat trailer), I have been using the Shocker Hitch. I found my 1500 mile excursion from CT to FLA a few weeks back to be quiet with minimal bouncing.

I did get the one that allows for a sway control to be added, but I have not installed that yet.

https://shockerhitch.com/products/shocker-air-receiver-hitch/

Shocker? My mind went in a different direction so glad I clicked the link. I actually like that hitch it looks well made, heavy duty. A little pricy but looks like it's worth it very nicely built.

[stu1965]

While I do not have a ton of experience towing to know about all the bouncing and clanging (other than a few trips around the block with my boat trailer), I have been using the Shocker Hitch. I found my 1500 mile excursion from CT to FLA a few weeks back to be quiet with minimal bouncing.

I did get the one that allows for a sway control to be added, but I have not installed that yet.

https://shockerhitch.com/products/shocker-air-receiver-hitch/

Shocker? My mind went in a different direction so glad I clicked the link. I actually like that hitch it looks well made, heavy duty. A little pricy but looks like it's worth it very nicely built.

lol...yes, you're not the first to think of something else.
The hitch is super beefy. Air is adjustable. Lots of good youtube references.

[Merlin]

This is a super useful thread. I need something like this for my utility trailer!

[Pinstriper]

1. The best way to manage "bouncing" is with proper tongue weight 10-15% of gross trailer weight. When in doubt, more tongue weight is better, unless other limits such as...tongue weight, TV rear axle weight, etc. are in jeopardy.

2. The best way to manage "sway" is....wait for it....proper tongue weight, along with not driving too fast. If you have your tongue weight correct and you are getting sway at 45 mph, think about your side/wind profile, but realize you can't change it. Sway control will be helpful, along with not driving in high wind conditions. If you are fine at 50 mph and getting sway at 65+ mph, you are driving too fast. Slow down and don't be a jackass. You can tell someone is a jackass because they prattle on about how safe their rig is driving down the highway at 65+ mph. They will frequently say things like "I tow at 70 mph all the time and have never had a problem" and other piffle. And yes, that is a 100% reliable litmus test on jackassery.

3. The Andersen WDH also works on friction/torsion which is why it helps with WD and sway. So technical solutions do work and have benefit. But you should already have dialed in your tongue weight before resorting to such technical measures. They are NOT a substitute or crutch for not addressing tongue weight.

4. It's spelled "rhythm".

In summation: Get your tongue weight right. Don't drive too fast. Don't drive too fast for conditions. Get WDH and Sway Control after those are squared away, not before.

Neither WDH nor sway control nor torsion hitches or any other gimmick/technical measure are a substitute for having enough tow vehicle and understanding the dynamics of the various limits, and making prudent decisions.

THE ABOVE HAVING BEEN SAID....with super low trailer weights like boats under 15', teardrops and small utility trailers, the weights involved are so low that 10% difference in tongue weight could be a burger and fries in a bag and those are going to be squirrely pretty much no matter what.

[Cajun]

1. The best way to manage "bouncing" is with proper tongue weight 10-15% of gross trailer weight. When in doubt, more tongue weight is better, unless other limits such as...tongue weight, TV rear axle weight, etc. are in jeopardy.

2. The best way to manage "sway" is....wait for it....proper tongue weight, along with not driving too fast. If you have your tongue weight correct and you are getting sway at 45 mph, think about your side/wind profile, but realize you can't change it. Sway control will be helpful, along with not driving in high wind conditions. If you are fine at 50 mph and getting sway at 65+ mph, you are driving too fast. Slow down and don't be a jackass. You can tell someone is a jackass because they prattle on about how safe their rig is driving down the highway at 65+ mph. They will frequently say things like "I tow at 70 mph all the time and have never had a problem" and other piffle. And yes, that is a 100% reliable litmus test on jackassery.

3. The Andersen WDH also works on friction/torsion which is why it helps with WD and sway. So technical solutions do work and have benefit. But you should already have dialed in your tongue weight before resorting to such technical measures. They are NOT a substitute or crutch for not addressing tongue weight.

4. It's spelled "rhythm".

In summation: Get your tongue weight right. Don't drive too fast. Don't drive too fast for conditions. Get WDH and Sway Control after those are squared away, not before.

Neither WDH nor sway control nor torsion hitches or any other gimmick/technical measure are a substitute for having enough tow vehicle and understanding the dynamics of the various limits, and making prudent decisions.

THE ABOVE HAVING BEEN SAID....with super low trailer weights like boats under 15', teardrops and small utility trailers, the weights involved are so low that 10% difference in tongue weight could be a burger and fries in a bag and those are going to be squirrely pretty much no matter what.

Tongue weight is almost perfect, tow vehicle is not bad, maybe a tad lite but should be fine. I took my motorcycle out on the same road and the bike was doing the same thing, the bouncing "rhythm" was the same. I usually drive 65 mostly so I keep the speed within 5 mph but never go over 69. 69 is a good number, I like it for some reason I don't know why. 

[ADR]

For sure certain roads combined with certain vehicle lengths can set up a rhythm no matter what- even if not towing!
Way back, early 70ish, there was a particular  interstate bridge in my area-  the boat shop I worked for after school had a Ford pickup with the old twin I beam suspension...
I dreaded that bridge when running errands in the company pickup-  the joints in the bridge were prominent and as that truck crossed that bridge it would start bouncing, and then without warning the front wheels would begin a high speed side to side oscillation- it would actually almost yank the steering wheel out of your grip  and the truck was literally to the point of being uncontrollable by the end of the bridge!

To stop the shaking and jumping  you had to almost come to a stop.   Not good on a bridge with fairly heavy traffic. 
BTW the truck never exhibited this anywhere else.     It was a well know characteristic of the twin I beam design- known as F150 death wobble.   

Good times

I have 2 older drawbars where the 2" tube contains about a 1.5 inch steel center the ball is attached to.   The area around the inner drawbar was isolated by a type of elastomer to absorb vibrations and jolts.   They work quite well.    I don't think they are made anymore.

https://patents.google.com/patent/US6834879B1/en

[Merlin]

I've use the Convert-a-ball hitches for years to cushion the fore/aft shock of towing my utility trailer on extremely rough forest roads to my cabin. This thread has me convinced there are now better solutions available to ease the shock loads for utility towing. For my Camplite, I still really like and use the Andersen WDH. There is some shock control in the sway control mechanism, but none in the hitch itself. I've only wished for shock control in Camplite towing once.......a truly awful road going to a Provincial Park in Saskatchewan.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch-Ball-Mount/Convert-A-Ball/AMSC4.html