Tank/battery status panel?

[Rex]

My old 1990 Roadranger, I had a status panel that gave 0-1/3-2/3-full status for battery charge level, black water, gray water, and fresh water. I assumed this was standard on every trailer, but I am not finding anything like this on my trailer. In an add for another Camplite, I see the panel by the charge station. Can this be added now, or hard to do as no sensors in any of the tanks?

We are going out for a shake down trip before putting it away for the winter today, so trying to learn all I can before we leave.

Trailer is a 2013 16BHB

[planemaker]

On my 2018 14 DBS the black, grey and fresh water tanks and battery indicator was in the washroom.

[djsamuel]

My old 1990 Roadranger, I had a status panel that gave 0-1/3-2/3-full status for battery charge level, black water, gray water, and fresh water. I assumed this was standard on every trailer, but I am not finding anything like this on my trailer. In an add for another Camplite, I see the panel by the charge station. Can this be added now, or hard to do as no sensors in any of the tanks?

We are going out for a shake down trip before putting it away for the winter today, so trying to learn all I can before we leave.

Trailer is a 2013 16BHB

The 2013s do not have those.  People have added them.  I know there are some threads on here addressing at least the best tank level systems.

[Pinstriper]

Check the old forum archives, too. Lots of discussion back in the day.

[GrampaKilt]

Initially, I was upset that the relatively expensive CLs didn't include a tank monitor like any other TT. Then I found out that in-the-tank sensors were as useless (they crudded up) as voltage monitors for measuring battery capacity. As forum member Charliem once wrote 'think of it as not paying for something you don't want'. A better way is to have sensors mounted on the outside of the tanks. AFAIK, Garnet Industries is the only company that makes external tank sensors for RVs. Search for SeeLevel. There are some good tips in the Old Forum Archive. Combine those with numerous YouTube installation vids and the SeeLevel should work well. Note 1: Based on a tip, the SeeLevel should be powered by a separate circuit. Note 2: I installed the monitor beside the pump switch. If I were to do it again, I'd buy the SL monitor that has a built in pump switch. Regards, GK

[charliem]

GrampaKilt ,         
+1 on the SeeLevel. And from north of the border too!  .

[djsamuel]

A much different and interesting tank gauge can be found at the link below.  Requires no electricity.

https://horstmiraclegauge.com

[GrampaKilt]

The Horst Miracle Gauge could be industry changing. Looked for user reviews, none yet (product just released) but the principle looks sound. Horst, the inventor, also has designed a new kind of tank probe that seems to solve many of the probs associated with the usual OEM sensors. Marketing wise, IMO the word 'Miracle' in the moniker doesn't engender confidence. If the product is as remarkable as it seems, one hopes it gets better marketing. GK

[nhlakes]

Checkout reviews on amazon.  Lots there. Search for 'Horst Miracle'

Most are positive but I read the negative reviews and I am still skeptical.

I agree that the name made me skeptical.  And the videos they have online were a waste of time (IMHO), which made me even more of a skeptic.

I'll wait until I start seeing positive results from regulars on some of the forums.

[Cajun]

2014 16DBS without the tank monitors, I will be installing the Seelevel here soon. Once I insulate bottom of the camper I wont be able to look under the camper to see if the fresh water tank water.

[DavidM]

How are you going to insulate underneath your camper. Over the years several threads on this subject have come up.

Most everyone agrees that the LL factory installed underneath the floor insulation is a waste of money. Others can comment why, but it doesn't work.

CharlieM came up with a scheme that circulates hot water through the plumbing to keep it from freezing. I proposed using 12V heat tape on the plumbing, but that does suck up some power. Probably best with solar panels and/or decent size batteries.

Arguably the best scheme is to install a barrier on the bottom of the trailer and route some of the propane furnace output underneath. That is what some of the big boy coach builders do.

These are all discussed here or in the archives.

David

[Merlin]

I'll be curious about what Cajun is up to also. I plan to make a concerted effort next year as major mod to figure out how to use our camper in the shoulder seasons without worry about periodic temps in the 20sF, either while parked or underway. I think it will be a big undertaking using a number of actions.

[Cajun]

I'll be curious about what Cajun is up to also. I plan to make a concerted effort next year as major mod to figure out how to use our camper in the shoulder seasons without worry about periodic temps in the 20sF, either while parked or underway. I think it will be a big undertaking using a number of actions.

I was looking into this last year, and when winter rolls around I start looking into it again.  I'm looking at Coroplast ("Fluted Polypropylene Sheet")but it would have to be cut into smaller peace's to fit the underbelly. Then there is ("Polyethylene") which is a softer material which you can model to fit around the tanks and framing of the camper. The 16DBS doesn't have a flat belly, the tanks and spare tire hand down. I think I'll be going the Polyethylene route. I was also thinking of gluing Relfextic to the Polyethylene for added insulation.

I live in the South so I hope to start putting something on the underbelly for when I travel in March up North. The South is always warm so I'm looking at January, I hope to get the belly closed in. I also insulated the PEX pipes so they have a little more protection. I will also put a heater on the fresh water tank for added mesure.