Show off your bike and bike rack

rideandfly · December 28, 2016, 05:48:30 PM

Quote from: pjcd on December 28, 2016, 04:28:04 PM
rideandfly,,,,,,

I had a similar set up in the back of the truck, don't ask how, but I ended up breaking the drop-out on the Rock Shox, (on my Cannondale SM500). I now have a "Kuat", great racks.

pjcd,

Checked out the Kuat website, nice looking racks, too!

billmoore · December 29, 2016, 12:07:20 AM

Do motorized bikes count? If so, here are our bikes in their rack ready for transport (rack is made by BoltItOn and can hold up to 3 motorcycles):

And here is a more recent picture of the bikes in their natural habitat:

The top pick was me loading up for our maiden voyage back in February 2015. The bottom picture is from September 2016, same bikes but my DR650 got a color change from gray to blue in between the two pictures. I really wanted blue when I bought it brand new back in 2012, but they haven't made the DR in blue since 2008. So this year I picked up an aftermarket larger fuel tank in blue and then a set of complete plastics in blue (with white number plates) to match.

gbpack · December 29, 2016, 01:07:42 AM

Quote from: Chappy133 on December 28, 2016, 08:35:10 AM
Factory upgraded bumper on our 16 TBS.

Chappy - That bumper reinforcement/installation job done by the factory is not correct and I would not attach any bike rack (or anything at all) to that bumper right now. Take a close look at how ours was done in the picture I posted above.
That's how it needs to be done. If you're dealer can't correct it then you'll have to find someone who knows how to weld aluminum and reinforce it on the inside (not on the outside). It's critical that you get it done right before you attach anything to that bumper. Good luck!

charliem · December 29, 2016, 08:29:19 AM

+1 on gbpack's comments. Not only is that factory mod wrong, it's worse than the unmodified bumper. -1 for the "quick and easy" factory.

rideandfly · December 29, 2016, 11:25:40 AM

Quote from: billmoore on December 29, 2016, 12:07:20 AM
Do motorized bikes count? If so, here are our bikes in their rack ready for transport (rack is made by BoltItOn and can hold up to 3 motorcycles):

Billmoore,

Nice bikes, rig, and scenery!!!!!!!!!!

Chappy133 · December 30, 2016, 01:47:47 PM

Quote from: gbpack on December 29, 2016, 01:07:42 AM
Quote from: Chappy133 on December 28, 2016, 08:35:10 AM
Factory upgraded bumper on our 16 TBS.

Chappy - That bumper reinforcement/installation job done by the factory is not correct and I would not attach any bike rack (or anything at all) to that bumper right now. Take a close look at how ours was done in the picture I posted above.
That's how it needs to be done. If you're dealer can't correct it then you'll have to find someone who knows how to weld aluminum and reinforce it on the inside (not on the outside). It's critical that you get it done right before you attach anything to that bumper. Good luck!

Well that bumper has over 4000 miles of hauling bikes on it. Could you provide some more details on why it is not correct. I cannot go to the dealership and raise the issue without why it is wrong in detail. Thanks

Chappy133 · December 30, 2016, 01:54:35 PM

I am also confused because on the soon to be departed forum Pinstriper said I had it done right: http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/2422/2016-tbs-bumper-size?page=2

Paul · December 30, 2016, 02:34:43 PM

I don't have a lot of knowledge on the subject but I though it would be good to copy some details of that thread here.

Quote from: charliemLet me amplify and clarify your statement so as to be crystal clear to Jim T. Simply welding an additional 2x4 to the original 2x4 bumper is not sufficient. I know you understand this, but I want to make sure it's perfectly clear for new owners. The additional 2x4 must be welded ahead (in front of) the existing bumper and must be welded to the frame members as well.

Quote from: charliemThe problem is failure of the bumper, not the carrier or hitch. The failure modes are twofold: Twisting/bending of the 2x4 bumper, and failure of the welds attaching the bumper to the frame members. The whipping motion of a bouncing trailer amplified by the long moment arm of the carrier create a significant torque load on the bumper. The torque puts the top of the bumper-to-frame welds in tension which is the weakest mode for a weld. Weld failure can be gradual or catastrophic. If you do pursue this mod I recommend securing the load with a strong cable tied to the trailer frame itself. This will deter theft and, in the event of failure, prevent the load from endangering traffic following behind you on the road.

This picture was posted by charleschapman (Chappy133 on this forum) on the other forum and it seem to be done differently than yours and more like charliem describe.

I am no expert, just copying info from the other forum

EDIT: I was wrong gbpack has it the right way please read other posts

Paul · December 30, 2016, 02:39:25 PM

Quote from: Chappy133 on December 30, 2016, 01:54:35 PM
I am also confused because on the soon to be departed forum Pinstriper said I had it done right: http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/2422/2016-tbs-bumper-size?page=2

Now I am confused I though Chappy133 had it the good way and gbpack didn't.

charliem · December 30, 2016, 07:30:17 PM

I don't know what Pinstripper was referring to with ^^^^^ but maybe it was to having the factory mod it vs a dealer. IMO what the factory did for Chappy133 is inadequate. It simply creates a 4x4 cross section without addressing the fundamental strength of the bumper and its attachment to the frame. The weak spot of the original bumper is the top weld to the frame. It is in tension which is a weak mode for any weld. If this weld fails the two side welds will begin to tear. LL has a documented inconsistency in their welding so this becomes a concern. Simply tacking an additional 2x4 onto the rear of the existing bumper does nothing to strengthen the attachment to the frame and, due to additional leverage, actually increases the stress on the original welds. Bottom line: The added 2x4 should be placed forward of the existing bumper and welded on three surfaces to each of the frame rails and on top and bottom along the length of the existing bumper. Gbpack's appears correct. This was my original drawing I gave to LL and they followed it exactly. Chappy's installation may survive forever but, given the geometry and LL's weld history, the welds should be checked for cracks before and after each trip, particularly after rough or bumpy road exposures.

Paul · December 30, 2016, 08:18:26 PM

Ok so the good way is like gbpack

Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Pro

rideandfly · December 30, 2016, 08:47:02 PM

Here's a Youtube video of Sean's bumper modification. Charlie's drawing, Sean's QS 10, and
gbpack's bumpers are the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REDEPauA0us

gbpack · December 30, 2016, 11:11:37 PM

Guys - thanks to all who jumped in and attempted to explain how the bumper reinforcement should be done. Here is another picture of our rear bumper (same one that I posted earlier in this thread). Click on the link below the picture in order to open it up and get a better look at how it should be reinforced.

pjcd · December 31, 2016, 12:01:34 PM

You might have answered this before, but how much did the material and labor cost you?

gbpack · December 31, 2016, 01:19:07 PM

Quote from: pjcd on December 31, 2016, 12:01:34 PM
You might have answered this before, but how much did the material and labor cost you?

We had it done as part of the trailer build at the factory and, honestly, I don't think they added in any additional cost for it. This was something that the dealer wrote in at the bottom of the purchase order (after clearing it with the factory sales guy first), and it didn't affect the pricing portion of it. I know. Wow!