2013 16DBS

Started by the, July 05, 2020, 09:05:26 PM

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the

First off, this is great insight regarding the 400watt panels, 400Ah battery's, the generator, etc. This is exactly what I need to hear. Thank you a ton for the input.

Secondly, I should have definitely but everything in amp hours. Many Apologies. Here's the numbers round 2 only in Ah:

AC power (but represented in 12v DC amp hours, this includes the loss from the inverter):
guitar amp: 1-2 hours daily @ 4.1 amps (call it 5 to be safer) - 10Ah


DC Power:
laptop use - 40Ah. 10 hours daily. Internal Battery lasts me ~4-6 hours.  It usually charges in 2 hours assume a 10 amp draw while charging. call it 4 hours of charging a day to be safe.
radio: - 60Ah. This number is likely way high, but I'm unable to test for a couple weeks, so I'd rather err high.
cell booster: 15Ah. (based on 10 hours of daily use at 12v. should be here today, can test and verify.)
hotspot - 10Ah. it has a 4.4Ah battery and clams to last 24 hours, but lets assume i charge it more often and say 10Ah to be more realistic.

total: 135Ah for personal needs. Unsure what the trailer will burn. I'll try to test that this weekend.

Other questions:
The stock converter on these, I assume it's single stage so charging a larger battery bank will just take longer. Is that accurate?

Are people just using the batteries exclusively to run everything, and the solar panels exclusively to charge the batteries? Does anyone use the panels to do other things when the batteries get to the absorption and float stage? Is this even worth considering?

I want to run 12v some lines internally for things like charging the laptop, access point, and running the cell booster. Any tips or tricks here?

Merlin

Post your your test results on the camper use. Could be interesting? 

Your era Camplite has a 3 stage converter so it's pretty good at battery charging.
When I'm running the camper on 12V, my solar panel and batteries are always connected. During sun-time, the panel is charging the batteries and powering loads. The batteries may get to absorption stage, but never float stage.
Tips #1, #2, and #3 are fuses, fuses, fuses. After those, tips are just be sure you use heavy, quality wire, make good connections, and use wire loom (no lamp cord running across the floor with clamp connectors!).
Michigan

Pinstriper

Casting everything back into DC Amps is not quite straightforward since you have to factor in the efficiency cost of the inverter to get the AC current you need for your loads.

So yeah starting with a kill-a-watt to determine your AC loads is valid so long as you then approach the DC side as "how many DC amps do I need to supply in order to deliver n AC amps ?" Inverter efficiency can cost you 5-15%. Something to know and plan into the equation.

Likewise, for supplying the batteries, your solar will deliver DC directly for charging, but a generator that runs into the AC converter/charger also has an efficiency cost to factor in.

the

Wanted to get the experts opinions on running cables for 12v outlets. I think the easiest place to run them on on my rig would be where the cook top is. My main question is about the azdel paneling. I see using razor blade or exacto knife looks like the best way to cut it. Is removing the panel to run the cable an option? Or is that more work than it's worth? Below is a video I took over the weekend when I was getting ready to do the runs, but figured I'd better ask yall first. If cutting a hole closer to the edge of the counter is better to run the wires, I can do that, then cover that hole with my battery monitor.



https://youtu.be/pqPectP288o



Also, I'm not seeing any tank level indicators, how are yall judging how much fresh water yall have left?

DavidM

#19
Quote from: the on July 13, 2020, 11:02:39 PM
Also, I'm not seeing any tank level indicators, how are yall judging how much fresh water yall have left?

I look underneath- the tank is translucent and the water level is readily apparent.

Edit following GrampaKilt's comments below: Yes it is hard on my 73 YO knees. I usually check out the water tank level while I am filling it. We rarely camp for more than two nights in one place, so I add enough water to cover us for these nights which is only 2/3 full. I lay on my side as the tank is filling (only in dry conditions of course) and watch the level rise, then get up and stop the water flow when it reaches the desired level. This way we travel home or to the next campsite with nearly empty water tank- better for the tank supports, and overall weight.

David

GrampaKilt

Hi the:

I've installed multiple 12V outlets and USB charging ports in the wall beside the stove. I make openings in adzel (and aluminum) using a dremel with a metal cutting disc. I find I have better control. There is lots or room to make a significant hole into the wall space beside the the breaker box and thread wire upwards. I've never had a problem threading a wire up to the ceiling in the wall space.

Here is a link to a short video of the aluminum skeleton of a 16DB circa 2014. It gives an idea of the route upwards. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZtOIbisE4M
FWIW, for my new outlets (plus an added stove hood) I ran a new 15A 12V circuit, 14 GA wire.

I'm not sure if any Camplites came with tank sensors. At any rate, factory installed in-tank (in particular, the black and gray tanks) sensors are doomed to fail. I choose to install what many forumers consider the gold standard, the SeeLevel II line of tank monitors. The maker of SeeLevel uses oil field tank monitoring technology and has adapted it for RVs. In particular, the sensors are mounted externally, never to be affected by sludge! Of course, DavidM's practical wisdom is the cheapest but gets pretty old if you have bad knees! GK

the

Just wanted to update everyone that helped out.  I'm on solar full time at this point, and things are going great. Over the last couple days my batteries got the lowest they've been due to cloud cover. (75% according to the battery monitor). Today my panels were outputting 417 watts during the bulk charging phase, but by noon were only outputting 280 watts. I notice I'm in the absorption phase and plugged in as many things to charge as i could.  Solar output jumped up to just over 400 watts and there's still ~210 watts/14.5 amps getting put into the batteries.

I'm working remote and will be full time boondocking for the next few months!

Merlin

#22
Quote from: the on August 13, 2020, 05:02:47 PM
Just wanted to update everyone that helped out.  I'm on solar full time at this point, and things are going great. Over the last couple days my batteries got the lowest they've been due to cloud cover. (75% according to the battery monitor). Today my panels were outputting 417 watts during the bulk charging phase, but by noon were only outputting 280 watts. I notice I'm in the absorption phase and plugged in as many things to charge as i could.  Solar output jumped up to just over 400 watts and there's still ~210 watts/14.5 amps getting put into the batteries.

I'm working remote and will be full time boondocking for the next few months!

Thanks for the report back. Good numbers on the electrical system. What batteries are you using?
Michigan

the

Batteries -  are two 6v golf cart batteries from costco, 210AH.
Solar - panels are ridiculous, i got two 305 watt house panels used for 100 bucks.  Higher voltage, but doing great so far. Very cumbersome, do not recommend. Especially for folks that move a lot. Working well for me though. They fit perfectly in my dinette
Charge controller  - is a victron mppt 150|70. Just about the only thing i didn't go cheap on.
Battery monitor - is the renogy recommended earlier in this post.
cables - I made all my cables. It was cheaper and has a perfect fit!
Most is mounted in a 12X12 pvc box you get at Lowes. I vented and made it watertight.  Towed through hellacious storm, no signs of water ingress. Was very nervous about my design.

According to my charge controller I spent 1h30mins in bulk, 2hrs in absorption, then 3hrs50min at float. My battery was at 159Ah when i turned solar on today at around 11am local time. It got all the way up to 207Ah. Once out of bulk I charged my nikon, go pro, laptop, rc glider battery, as well as powered my wifi internet and cell booster. total energy delivered according to the victron mppt app was 1.05kWh.  Wish I had more battery, but just didn't have the cash.

Merlin

That all looks really good, and the numbers are great. You can abuse those tough Interstate GC2 batteries much more than others. Just equalize them periodically and keep the water level good
Michigan