Aluminum Camper Forum

Having not looked at the AC Forum since '22, it's good to notice it's still carrying on. Our 2014 14DB is seemingly on track to become a generational trailer, just like Scott T envisioned. New roof leak this year and somehow a kicked up rock? cracked a hole in the fresh water tank on our last outing. A local plastics shop may just be able to patch it. All the mods in my posts have endured nicely. The best still is the front window install. Certainly upcoming is conversion to Lithium and a 12v only fridge once the OEM dies. Oh yes, the canopy is in desperate need of replacement (mold stained) and it's time to 'Lagun'ize our unstable tables atop adapted computer arms. Greetings to all. GK

Quote from: shark24 on July 24, 2025, 10:46:05 PManyone know how the shower drain is connected under the shower pan? Removed the screw on cover now just black piece feels real tight and I am afraid I am going to break it trying to remove it to remove the pan.

Remove the side of the shower base toward the toilet and look underneath. It's been too long since I took my shower pan out to remember how it's removed, but I "think" that black drain piece is glued to the shower pan and comes out with it. The black drain piece is fastened to the drain pipe underneath the shower pan with a standard screw clamp, I "think". Anyway, it can't hurt to look under there and see what's going on.

Quote from: dlb53151 on July 02, 2025, 10:09:54 PMUPDATE:  Recpro.com did not have my shower pan size available as they originally told me.  (Size:  26"W X 32"L, with right side drain).  So, I called the RV dealer who the original owner bought mine from.  They scoured their suppliers and every resource they could find. The closest size available: 24"W X 32"L.  So... I need to figure out a way to rig that to make it fit mine, including the drain will be off-center so will need some sort of elbow for that.  I guess I will try to find a plumber who can take a look at it.  Any advice would be great!


UPDATE 2:  After further thought, it will be problematic to rig-install the new shower pan that is 2 inches too narrow.  I have concluded that the only rig-job that makes sense for now is to try to patch the cracks in the existing shower base.  I fully anticipate that will not last long because of the flex that occurs when standing on it, which will reopen the cracks.  Dang....

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I built a wooden rowboat several years ago and used a fiberglas mesh soaked in epoxy for the exterior. The fiberglas disappeared completely in the epoxy and once the glue set up, it has been extremely strong and leak proof for years. I think that would work fine for the shower pan too, so maybe go to a boat supply store like a West Marine and get some fiberglas cloth and 2 part epoxy.

anyone know how the shower drain is connected under the shower pan? Removed the screw on cover now just black piece feels real tight and I am afraid I am going to break it trying to remove it to remove the pan.

I also agree with the previous comments regarding your damaged door.

A tip that a lot of original owners have done to avoid similar issues with your compartment doors is to drill a couple of small drainage holes in the bottom edges of each door. Let's any water out if it penetrates around the perimeter and might help keep the inside materials dry.

Honestly IMO you wont be happy with any fix other than replacing the door.  I had this issue on a compartment door and had it professionally repaired with bondo and repainted.  That "fix" lasted 2 months and the bubbling reappeared.  Once the water gets inside of the door. coupled with the garbage Luan, it is game over.   Why in the world Challenger thought Luan was a good material to use in a door is a mystery to me.  Just sharing the reality with you so you are fully aware of the risk of throwing time and money at any kind of repair rather than replacement....


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First, seal the window frame and top of the door to stop the water leak that caused it. The entrance door and compartment doors on certain year Camplites are made by Challenger doors and had lauan plywood in them. That gets wet from leaks and corrodes the aluminum skin. The typical leak is at the bottom of the outside black plastic trim around the door window. There is a small joint there that lets water inside the door. I used clear silicone on the crack after a good cleaning. Once the door no longer leaks it will take weeks, if ever, to dry out even in the hot sun. Once dry, a light sanding and spray painting the door is one possibility. Others on here have replaced the door, but that's expensive. It is a standard size RV door, so do some on-line shopping for a good price.

Edit; on my compartment doors, removing the blisters left holes in the aluminum skin, so I replaced all 3 doors. .

Just bought the trailer with the door like this and wondering how to approach a fix. Thinking of taping off the white line then stripping and repainting below the line. Then remove blisters and spot paint the areas above the line.

I bought the product on Amazon.  Since I needed it soon, I decided to buy a "non-Honda" product.

I had to put it on backwards!  The instructions say to put "the wide end of the bracket toward the gas cap (with the shorter tab).  The rub is that the wider end of the bracket has the longer tab.  I was able to get it on, but the rear portion of the handle is not a protected as it could be. 

I felt like I was on Candid Camera.  I left a review on the website.

The ugly old beer cooler is perfect! Great theft deterrent.