Aluminum Camper Forum

Another rookie question, thanks in advance for your help-

When I installed our hardwired surge protector, I found that the water pump sits right next to the rats nest of wiring and the converter/breakers. Should I be concerned? There are a couple of grounding blocks secured to the floor, and the whole thing looks like it was wired with whatever shop scraps were lying around. I don't know how reliable or leak-proof these pumps are. I have a water pressure regulator so I don't blow any hoses, and all the connections look to be ok (I conducted a driveway test while the couch was off so I could check for leaks at connection points). If the pump were to fail, it looks like even a dribble could fry everything, God forbid it sprays everywhere.

It's all under the couch in our 13QBB right where the power and water connections are on the outside of the wall. It's a bit of a pain to access, gotta remove the couch, then the platform it sits on. Like 20 screws. I'm considering adding an access panel to alleviate some of that.

Also- has anyone taken the time to clean up the factory wiring? Tedious work, I'm sure.

Thanks all-

John

Quote from: Pinstriper on May 08, 2017, 11:36:19 AM

Wow. 200# TW limit is pretty pitiful. And man, that doesn't square with their 3500# tow rating for no WDH.  Should be more like 400# or a skootch more. The back end of that thing must be really heavy for 200# to be all that's left.

Sorry man, in my OP I was trying to recall my ratings off the top of my head, but since I consulted my manual last night, lemme clarify-

The Jeep is rated to tow 2000lbs with a TW of 200 without a WDH. WITH a WDH, it is rated at 5000/750. So, I imagine when I did all my research last year, that's why I determined that a WDH was absolutely necessary for even a small trailer like my 13QBB. It is also the reason I sought a 13QBB in the first place. When loaded up and hitched up, it "looks" just fine; no noticeable lift in the front end, although I admit I haven't measured for a precise calculation. In the 3 short trips i've pulled it, I had no loss of steering or braking power, it felt very good.

True, the Cherokee doesn't have the strongest rear end, because of the unibody construction, but many owners who pull with them feel that it is vastly underrated. Personally, I trust Chrysler's engineers more than a bunch of Jeep yokels online. My intention was to remain at 80% or less under max capacity. With a WDH, I have done just that.

Thank you all for taking the time to help me with this. I was originally concerned that I might have a WDH that is not kosher with the aluminum frame, but now I feel reassured that I have a good set up.

I appreciate y'all-

John

Thanks for the advice.

Yeah, I'm sure my tongue weight won't get anywhere the 600 lb range, and I won't be carrying any passengers besides the wife in the front seat.

Guess I was just being overly cautious; was more concerned with screwing up my Jeep than anything. I even updated my leaf springs before purchasing the trailer. When I checked again, my manual says 200lb TW limit w/o WDH, 750 with. I imagine it also might have to do with the XJ's notoriously crappy rear brakes, i.e., keeping the front wheels squarely on the pavement.

I suppose I'll go load it up for a trip and check the TW this week (I recently added some weight with a battery upgrade), and then perhaps try pulling it with and without WD for a comparison. At least, I'll measure to check for any differences in vehicle height with and without.

As I said, I'm overly cautious, and in this case, perhaps to a fault.

Thanks again.

Quote from: tinkeringtechie on May 08, 2017, 12:53:38 AM
How are the brackets attached to the tongue? (bolted, clamped, screws, etc...) How about a picture? The general consensus is that as long as it doesn't involve drilling any holes in the frame then you're in the clear.

I don't have a pic on hand, but it's not drilled. It's clamped with a set screw.

That pretty much answers my question, thanks.

Now, to decide whether or not I need it at all...

Well, I suppose mostly because I'm a new guy. Everything I read suggested one for short wheelbase tow vehicles. My Jeep says capacity is 3500, but 5000 with a WD hitch. I wanted to stay a decent amount under capacity. It's an 18 year old Cherokee. Unibody.

So, you think it's completely unnecessary?

It's an unusual 13QBB. GVWR is over 4000 lbs, although I likely won't ever load it over 3500.

If I don't need it, I'll get rid of it.

Hello friends-

In one of the RV Facebook groups I belong to, a fellow was commenting on a pic of my trailer tongue and asked me about my WD hitch. He asked me if I had experienced any problems with it. He said that he was researching WD hitches for aluminum frames and was apprehensive about purchasing one due to his findings. Mine is a Curt brand, round bar type hitch. It was installed by the dealer I purchased from (which is NOT a Livin' Lite dealer- my trailer was a lot leftover when a former LL dealer was bought out.)

I have only towed it home from the dealership and then to the storage lot where it sits now, around 50-60 miles total, and it didn't budge, it towed great.

Should I be concerned? There is nothing in the hitch manual that warns about use with an aluminum frame.

Thanks for your help!

John

Got it done today, batteries installed and working great. Thanks again for the inspiration and technical help!

So, I finally got the old battery bracket off. I used a hand impact driver (hammer-strike style) and that loosened two of them, had to grind and drill the other two off. Once it was off, I was able to test fit the new box. Turns out, I had to relocate my propane tanks. I moved them about 3-4 inches forward, and now with the cover installed, they nearly butt right against my tongue jack. It's a top-wind jack, so I can see that become a pain in the @ss before long. Might be looking into a sidewinder or power jack in the near future.

Installing the angle aluminum and new box will have to wait until time/weather allows. We're expecting rain/snow/sleet here in the Twin Cities most of this week starting tomorrow.

Man, I really can't wait to go camping. I've been tinkering with this thing for 6 weeks now!

Thanks for all the help and advice. I LOVE this forum.

John

Same trouble here. My trailer came with a 2 foot long hose holder, essentially useless. I don't think it would carry a 3 foot long hose when "compressed."  I plan to do the 5x5 "fence post mod" attached to my bumper. I didn't get a hose with my TT, so I bought two 10 foot sections.

Thanks for the responses!

It's been raining continuously since my last post (with temps in the 30's!) so I'm not sure when I'll get back to it. I plan to try to PB blast it then hit it with an impact, but I'm prepared to grind away if need be. No real sign of obvious corrosion, but who knows?

I'm ready to stop spending time and money modding and prepping and get out and actually CAMP in the darned thing!

Thanks again-

John

So I just got back from visiting my trailer at the storage lot so I could take measurements and test fit the new battery box. The 4 screws holding the old box in (not the plastic, the aluminum rectangle frame that holds the old group 24 box) are torqued down SUPER tight. I broke two bits with my driver on the highest torque setting. Any tips for gettin' that sucker off?

Thanks y'all!

John

Thanks for the response Eddie! Looking forward to my next mod...


John

Quote from: bryan.a.white on April 11, 2017, 08:05:24 PM
You will like the 6V Duracells, I got the same ones and I have had them for a couple of years. In fact, I just moved them from a Pop-Up trailer to my recently purchased Livin-Lite. Install is shown in the photos. (Ignore my charger lead that is wired in, I had it reversed in the photo.)

I have been maintaining the charge with a Pulse Tech charger that has "desulfation" technology. Keeps them in prime condition and ready to go. I have heard tons of stories from my family and friends who use them on their old batteries and they are brought back to life.

http://www.pulsetech.net/XCPARALLEL-Xtreme-Charge-Parallel-Multi-12V-Battery-Charger-7276.aspx

Bryan-

I just bought the same Noco box you have. On your install- is it really as simple as it looks? It looks like two pieces of angle aluminum screwed to the tongue frame, then the box mounted to the angle aluminum. My trailer is in a storage lot, so I can't go out and look at it until tomorrow, but was the stock battery box holder difficult to remove? And did you have to move your propane tanks at all? If so, was that difficult?

Thanks for your help and advice. Sorry to pepper you with questions like I'm giving you the 3rd degree!

John

Another update:

After a week without receiving the promised copies of the completed cancellation forms, I called them back.

I spoke to the person responsible for sending the forms to the plan administrators and she was very friendly and helpful and within another day I had my copies of the completed forms. $5000.00 will be credited to the loan as a principle payment.

I went in today and picked up my license plate. Hopefully it's a done deal at this point. I will post a final update (hopefully final) once the money actually shows up. I don't plan on going back for any service or warranty work. Hopefully I can fix whatever comes up myself, and if anything major, I'll contact Livin' Lite directly for advisement.

Thanks again-

John

I just want to get back to the excitement of finally getting out and camping. First trip booked for next month..

We just got home from Camping World, and it was less painful than I had anticipated.

He had us sign a form for each of the packages we wanted to cancel. What bothered me a bit, though, was that we signed and dated the cancellation forms, but the rest of the details were yet to be filled in. He said his admin would do the rest and submit them. I asked him to please fax me copies of those forms once they are completed. He said that wouldn't be a problem.

So now, it's wait time. As far as I'm concerned, it's not over until the money is in the bank. He said funding takes 4-6 weeks typically.

As I said, not very painful, hardly any push back, but I trust dealerships like I'd trust Charlie Manson to babysit. i.e., NOT AT ALL. I always walk in the door expecting shady tactics.

We'll see. I'll update when and if something more happens.

Thanks!

John