Aluminum Camper Forum

Lots of questions to address here. The directional antenna does need to be aimed. As such it is really only useful for home applications or campsites where you intend to stay for weeks. For overnights it's too much trouble unless you just have to have cell service. The antenna needs to be on a mast so you can rotate and aim it. Finding the correct direction can be from the mapping program or a signal meter but that's more hassle. Best to just use a roof mounted omnidirectional antenna, an amplifier, and take what you get.

The available signal amplifiers should work with multiple services, multiple frequencies, and 4G/5G. You just have to check the specs before buying one. The frequencies are allocated by the FCC to all vendors so they're common.

Merlin's post brings up two important points. The most important improvement you can implement is an outside directional (gain) antenna. That will do more than any electronic gain you add. The gain and height of the antenna is all important. The second point is turning off cell service to force the phone into wifi operation.

Sorry you're having so much trouble.

Yep. AT&T still hasn't figured out they're not the only phone company in town. That said they might be the best solution for you at home. You're approach to asking close neighbors is the best. Like most other things there is no one size fits all solution.

Guilty as charged on the Turkey; couldn't care less re football. I may have been confused a bit re T-Mobile. Consumer cellular uses other folks' towers but not sure about T-Mobile. They may have their own towers but I suspect they suffer away from population centers or highways. Historically Verizon has had the most consistent service in the more remote areas. I hate AT&T for their attitude toward customers but they may be an option for your home service. Only research will tell.

Before you jump to T-Mobile check with a close neighbor who is on AT&T. T-Mobile uses some combination of Verizon and AT&T towers so their coverage can be no better than those towers.

I realize this is a technicality but most light failures are caused by bad or corroded connections, not short circuits. Shorts blow fuses. If all fuses are good you should look for bad connections. Typically these occur at bulb sockets or where wires are connected together with some sort of connecting device such as a wire nut or terminal.
That said, owners have had trouble with wiring abrading against sharp edges in the aluminum framing. This will blow a fuse somewhere so it should be evident as opposed to a bad or corroded connection causing the failure.

For a 2014 21RBS you will want to check the hitch coupler. If not already replaced by a previous owner you should add side bolts or replace the coupler and add side bolts, especially if you plan to use a WDH. This was an identified problem on early 21s. Here's a starting point:

https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=1743.msg11987#msg11987

Merlin,

It pains my wife and me too. We went round and round on the decision but it's better this way. I just hit 80 and we only had the camper out once in two years. Better that someone else gets use and enjoyment out of it. We'll miss the camper and all my friends here. You particularly because you've been here for the long haul. We've been through thick, thin and Thor so to speak. Keep those bolts tight and Camp on!

Camper has been sold to excited buyers. A young couple and 4 tiny dogs. I gave them all my accumulated stuff and  the URL to this forum.

Goodbye and good luck to all my old friends here. I've really enjoyed the ride. I wish you all fair weather and trouble free camping but beware, I may still be lurking around 

Charlie

Yes. Just posted it. First experience with RV Trade. We'll see what happens.

Just bumping post. Still for sale. Getting ready to put ad in RV Trader.

Quote from: Juliana on March 29, 2024, 06:56:50 PMIs this camper still available?

Yes it's still available. Call (970)388-3211.

Quote from: RV Squirrel on February 24, 2024, 10:51:38 PMI finished drilling the holes for vertical bolts.  At this time, I think that I will refrain from drilling the holes for the horizontal bolts that you (Charlie) used.  This may be a good idea, but at this time I'm leery of drilling additional holes in the frame.  If I have problems again in the future, it is a comforting thought that I can use this approach.

Adding holes near the end and near the vertical center of the frame is zero risk. There is essentially no stress in the frame member forward of the coupler. Note that once the coupler begins to bend such that you can see it it will be almost impossible to straighten it. You will be back to starting over with a new coupler.

On second thought, I may have used a foam tape from the auto supply store. Thinking would have been: Doesn't cost much and better safe than sorry. Memory fades with age 

Squirrel,

The idea was to get the side bolts as far forward of the point of maximum bend as possible. That point is just forward of the vertical through bolts so the side bolts needed to be as far forward as possible. The access inside the frame was an added benefit.

I think the replacement coupler did come from LivinLoite. They were already using it, with side bolts, on their larger trailers. It's been a while but I think I remember the spongy strips. With the zinc plating and the other aluminum to steel contacts of the bolts I think I ignored it. I don't think it will be an issue.  The reason LL originally used the bolt on coupler is they could not find a strong aluminum weld on coupler. They needed the strength of steel but you cannot weld steel to aluminum. I think the spongy strips were just a cautionary measure (good practice, why not) but not really needed.