Finally getting the repairs done on the frame, I'm going to add to the rear bumper so I can attach my bike rack and was wondering if anyone knows what grade aluminum is used in the frame. I'll post some pic's when its done. Also, I removed all the wiring from the rears lights and was considering re-routing it on the outside, it would make it easier to reinstall, has anyone gone that rout?
Quote from: pjcd on July 05, 2017, 04:55:32 PM
....................... and was wondering if anyone knows what grade aluminum is used in the frame.
A starting point would be alloys 6061 or 6063 at tempers at T6 or T5. Wall thickness should be 1/8".
https://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material74.html (https://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material74.html)
Here is what I was planning to use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H9L68Y/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2OQHIWNAQFFO&colid=X72I9ZO5GJMI
I agree that routing wire on the outside would make it easier. That's a really messy pile of wiring in those frames back there. What would be the best way to protect it from water/abrasion?
I would put it in a wire loom and use rubber coated clamps to hold it in place.
Quote from: charliem on July 05, 2017, 06:32:31 PM
Quote from: pjcd on July 05, 2017, 04:55:32 PM
....................... and was wondering if anyone knows what grade aluminum is used in the frame.
A starting point would be alloys 6061 or 6063 at tempers at T6 or T5. Wall thickness should be 1/8".
https://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material74.html (https://www.speedymetals.com/information/Material74.html)
Thanks for the info
Couple things.
The clamp type connectors LL uses in wiring don't like to stay wet. Eventually they will corrode and lose the connection if they are wet a lot. And absolutely they don't like salt. They last about 5 minutes in winter driving on salty roads. Anyway, whenever you have the opportunity, replace those connectors with good butt connectors that have heat shrink covers to keep them dry.
And, the standard home center wire loom has no resistance to UV damage. I used that on my utility trailer wiring and wherever it's exposed to the sun, it is rotted and cracked. If you go with that, at the very least paint it or keep it out of the sun.
Sounds crazy; but on my other utility trailer I just rewired and used plain old garden hose. It seems unaffected by sun for years, cuts easy and you can get all sorts of fittings that will fit. Or you can spend more and get weatherproof flexible conduit at any of the big box or hardware stores with weatherproof fittings. Living lite used the weatherproof conduit in several places on my 21RBS.
Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best. :)
Well, the welder I am using decided he needed a vacation, (the nerve of the guy). Should be back Monday or Tuesday, so, I'm just prepping the trailer, Pulled all the wiring and bought the bumper. The bumper was $57, (6' section) delivered to the house.
I was taking the trailer over to the shop to have the repairs done and I had no power to the jack, or the inside lights, (yes, battery was hooked up). I had removed the tail lights in preparation for the welder and capped off the leads, well apparently in order to get power back, I had to re-connect the tail lights, I just zip tied them to the frame.
Now my question is, is this normal, I'm not much on electrical issues, but it seemed strange that I would loose all 12 volt power because the lights weren't connected.
Btw, the welding shop is around the corner, so, I figured I could get away with no lights for the short drive over.
Quote from: pjcd on July 23, 2017, 11:30:30 AM
I was taking the trailer over to the shop to have the repairs done and I had no power to the jack, or the inside lights, (yes, battery was hooked up). I had removed the tail lights in preparation for the welder and capped off the leads, well apparently in order to get power back, I had to re-connect the tail lights, I just zip tied them to the frame.
Now my question is, is this normal, I'm not much on electrical issues, but it seemed strange that I would loose all 12 volt power because the lights weren't connected.
Btw, the welding shop is around the corner, so, I figured I could get away with no lights for the short drive over.
I don't think there is nothing in the wiring of my camper that would cut off all 12VDC power just by not having the tail lights connected, but I have to admit I did not try that scenario because when I did my taillight work, I had the power off. If you had that experience and got power back by reconnecting the tail lights (and no fuses were blown), I can only assume it had something to do with the 12VDC grounding. How odd.
I have a question to throw out there, I'm having the repairs done on the trailer and the welder suggested adding gussets to the sponsons. These would be welded to the main beam on the trailer. Any thoughts on this?
Regarding your frame support welds.
Our trailer had to be serviced in the field for cracked welds around the outside perimeter frame. In short, the field repairs held up till we were able to have our dealer inspect the frame. The conclusion was to ship our unit back to LL for the repairs. They added some extra welds and inspected our frame but did not install any additional frame supports. Wish they did for piece of mind. I believe lots of owners checked their rigs for failed welds after my posts but very few owners had the same issues as our rig. We had other issues and LL did step up and fixed everything that was required. They even fixed our failed sail switch in the back of the furnace. That was a few hundred dollars worth of service.
Good luck!
Thanks for the input. I post some pic's of the work when its done.
The bumper is now done.
Looks good!
From what I can see it was done right. Should be fine. Good job.
Looks good! Done right! 👍 Should work well for you!