Aluminum Camper Forum

Yes. Just posted it. First experience with RV Trade. We'll see what happens.

Just bumping post. Still for sale. Getting ready to put ad in RV Trader.

Quote from: Juliana on March 29, 2024, 06:56:50 PMIs this camper still available?

Yes it's still available. Call (970)388-3211.

Quote from: RV Squirrel on February 24, 2024, 10:51:38 PMI finished drilling the holes for vertical bolts.  At this time, I think that I will refrain from drilling the holes for the horizontal bolts that you (Charlie) used.  This may be a good idea, but at this time I'm leery of drilling additional holes in the frame.  If I have problems again in the future, it is a comforting thought that I can use this approach.

Adding holes near the end and near the vertical center of the frame is zero risk. There is essentially no stress in the frame member forward of the coupler. Note that once the coupler begins to bend such that you can see it it will be almost impossible to straighten it. You will be back to starting over with a new coupler.

On second thought, I may have used a foam tape from the auto supply store. Thinking would have been: Doesn't cost much and better safe than sorry. Memory fades with age 

Squirrel,

The idea was to get the side bolts as far forward of the point of maximum bend as possible. That point is just forward of the vertical through bolts so the side bolts needed to be as far forward as possible. The access inside the frame was an added benefit.

I think the replacement coupler did come from LivinLoite. They were already using it, with side bolts, on their larger trailers. It's been a while but I think I remember the spongy strips. With the zinc plating and the other aluminum to steel contacts of the bolts I think I ignored it. I don't think it will be an issue.  The reason LL originally used the bolt on coupler is they could not find a strong aluminum weld on coupler. They needed the strength of steel but you cannot weld steel to aluminum. I think the spongy strips were just a cautionary measure (good practice, why not) but not really needed.

I've included a few pictures of the replacement coupler with added side bolts. The MSWord document describes some of the detail.

CharlieCoupler Solution.docx

Yep. Just us old diehards still lurking around. Merry Christmas to all. 

Charlie-Northern Colorado

For Sale: 2014 Camplite 21RBS (Pre-Thor)


All aluminum including floor, roof, cabinets.
Thick interlocking foam tile flooring added.
Custom dinette cushions and table.
Upgraded mattress.
Upgraded large SS kitchen sink and faucet.
Upgraded bathroom sink and shower fixtures..
Five new Goodyear tires and two new batteries.
SiriusXM satellite radio.
Three Fantastic Fans, two with rain covers.
SeeLevel tank monitors.
Voyager wireless rearview camera.
Custom reinforced rear bumper for bike rack (rack not included).
Electric tongue jack.
Fastway E2 weight distribution hitch.
Many more upgrades and accessories too numerous to list.
Price: $23,000.
Located near Fort Collins, CO.

Mighty quiet here on the ACF. I'm still here and lurking. Got the LL out once this past season but hope to do more next year. For now all is flushed, drained and frozen.

Merry Christmas to all and, as Santa always says, Camp On.

Charlie - Northern Colorado

His profile lists a 2016 16TBS. Probably a Thor unit.

David,
I was referring to the ignition operated relay to isolate TV and TT. My real question was about defeating the low input setting on the Victron. Seems like that setting would only be useful in the absence of electrical TV/TT isolation. I'm thinking of using the Victron only when set up at a campsite and with the TV running and connected to the Victron with heavy wire. I'm concerned that, even with heavy wiring, the TV alternator would limit the voltage seen at the Victron to something lower than the low input setting. What's the problem with disabling the low input setting?

I've not been following this thread closely but I have been thinking about the Victron DC/DC charger. I have a 2013 Toyota Tacoma TV which may or may not have a "smart"alternator. It does seem to stay at 13.6V then the TV battery is charged, which limits the TT charging even when connected with HD jumper cables. My question is, given the TV has a relay to prevent total TV discharge, what is the problem with disabling the Victron low input sensor and just letting it run with whatever it sees? Let one piece of smart technology defeat another piece of "smart" technology.

David,

You party pooper. Now I've got to go fire up my 3500W gen and see if it works. Never tried it, just assumed it would work. Well, you know what they say about assumed 

Thanks for the heads up,
Charlie

That sounds like a ringing endorsement for Victron. I'll probably go that way and mount the charger on the trailer near the battery. It looks like Victron even suggests this in their manual. Funny you should mention the EV solar charging. My wife is after me to provide solar backup for the house. If I had panels and a modest battery bank I would be set up. Since we heat with a gas fired furnace and cook with gas we just need electricity for the central fan and refrigeration. You have solved it all with the solar and the car battery. Now if I just had the Tesla.

On the Tacoma as a charger, it seems you, I and DavidM agree hauling the generator and all that gas is a lot easier if it's all built into the truck. That plus solar panels is the ideal solution. I have also thought of the solar panels for the camper but one thing at a time. The truck is always there; the sun may not be.

As for the down hill and tailwind thing, you obviously haven't driven across my neighboring state of Kansas. Perfectly flat and always a headwind no matter which way you're going.

Camp on,
Charlie