PDI for leftover CL campers

[nhlakes]

Hi All,

I've recently placed a deposit on a 'brand new' 2016 CL 21RBS. 

It's 650 miles away, but I liked the idea of buying a unit that still had the aluminum roof/floor - and also had a new warranty, so for me it's worth the drive.  Plus I need to go through the area on business anyway, so I'll just drive my truck rather than fly and pick this up along the way.

I've bought numerous year old leftovers without issue, but this one being 2+ years old has me a tad nervous (why has it sat on the lot for 2+ years?) especially with an assumed  lack of good dealer support in my local area. 

Regardless, I'm biting the bullet.  I had a 2010 QS 10 (along with several other campers) and loved it, so I am a fan of LL.

I'm planning to stop by the dealer on a Monday, do a PDI, if all goes well, buy it, spend the night in the camper, and then leave it at the dealer while I will go visit a client of mine for couple of days.  This way if I discover anything wrong, they'll have a couple of days to fix the issue(s) while I am gone.  My wife will fly up and join me on an extended trip home, camping along the way.

I'm going to use the popular PDI script provided by Tom Boles http://www.angelfire.com/trek/buenavistas/RV_checklists/PDI_V113_2.pdf as a guideline.

Question to you all - in additional to visible aluminum welds, is there anything else I should focus on for this model/year camper - that has been sitting on the lot for a couple years....?

Pics of camper: https://imgur.com/a/0dUHE

Thanks in advance!

[DavidM]

Be aware that that model particularly with what looks like twin LPG tanks and an electric jack will have a lot of tongue weight, probably 500+ lbs even with nothing in the pass through compartment.

Presuming it was never commissioned and never filled with water, it should be fine in that department. Pump seals and valves could have deteriorated sitting that long. I would fill it with water and check the plumbing out and then winterize for the trip home if freezing temps are expected.

The only other thing is that the tires will have deteriorated some if sitting in the sun.

Have fun. I bet you got a good deal.

David

[nhlakes]

Thanks. Max tongue weight on my Tundra is 980lbs, but will not be surprised if I wind up with a WDH.  Will evaluate on initial hookup and then decide if I want to do something prior to the extended trip home (going further south than we need to - but will be trying to find warmer temps).

Are there any particular welds that need more attention than others?  I am considering bring a mechanics creeper to make it easier to roll around under the camper. 

Also, it just occurred to me, is anyone aware of desirable 2017/2018 'dealer installable' updates that might be worth considering?

Thanks again.

[pjcd]

Check all welds and check for missing welds as well.

[Merlin]

That is a nice camper!  I can't tell from the photos if side bolts have been installed on the tongue. If not, LL has been having dealers do that. The PDI list you have is very complete. The brakes may be a bit rusty, so it could take a few stops before you can get your controller adjusted properly. I'll bet you'll really like the 21, coming from your previous campers and your Tundra is a nice tow vehicle.

[nhlakes]

That is a nice camper!  I can't tell from the photos if side bolts have been installed on the tongue. If not, LL has been having dealers do that. The PDI list you have is very complete. The brakes may be a bit rusty, so it could take a few stops before you can get your controller adjusted properly. I'll bet you'll really like the 21, coming from your previous campers and your Tundra is a nice tow vehicle.

Thanks for the reminder.  i'd read about that and have asked the dealer if this could be done.

[nhlakes]

Check all welds and check for missing welds as well.

thanks, any particular spots to check for missing welds?

[pjcd]

On my rig, the out board gussets along the frame rails of the trailer. Some were just tacked or welded on just one side or separating.  I had them repaired and was reimbursed by LL. My 21RBS is a 2015 model.

[pjcd]

,,,,,,,,, also, I ran into a problem with the LP gas, It turned out to be a loose connection on the furnace, (under the fridge). Check the closet by the bed, I developed a small leak that let water enter the trailer through the running light wiring that passes through the roof there.

[nhlakes]

thanks!

[nhlakes]

Exchanged some email with the dealer about the coupler bolts and they said that haven't seen any issues with the coupler and LL has not issued a recall.  They did not outright say that they would not do it, but my takeaway was that it was something that they'd prefer not to do (i.e. if it is not broke don't fix it, my words, not theirs.)

Honestly it's an easy enough change that I'm not worried about doing myself at a later date.

i think I read someplace that LL increased coupler ball size from 2" to 2 5/16" at some point - but this may not have been specific to the 21RBS?  By chance was it the case that the problems were with the smaller couplers and they increased coupler size on the 21RBS at some point?

[DavidM]

CharlieM went through this several years ago on the old site. I think he was the first to identify the problem with the original 2" coupler. His 2" coupler bent, so LL gave him a new 2-3/16" coupler. Charlie being a belt and suspenders guy drilled the sides and put in two additional bolts in addition to the bigger coupler.

If LL had installed the bolts with the old 2" coupler originally it almost certainly wouldn't have bent.

So you are probably ok with the bigger coupler, but if it were mine I would install the two bolts.

David

[charliem]

Some history: The bent coupler problem was originally discovered on the 21s. The combination of heavy tongue weight, improper coupler application, and WDH caused the couplers to bend near the top front bolts. Steel couplers are designed to be welded to the tongue along their lower edges but this is not possible on an aluminum frame. They were never designed to be bolted from the top but LL drilled four holes and bolted them from the top. WDH, as required on many TV/TT combinations, added stress to the couplers and bending resulted. LL refused to acknowledge the problem for a long time but finally upgraded the lighter weight 2" models to a heavier 2-5/16" version. The original couplers were clearly stamped 5000# which was less than the GVWR of the larger trailers. A fix for existing 2" couplers was devised by members of this forum and proved successful. The upgraded factory coupler helped but the side bolts were finally added on newly manufactured trailers.  LL, especially after Thor, has never acknowledged the flaw so there will never be a recall. Installation of the side bolts is not hard if you are handy with tools but should be done. Search this forum archives for details and instructions.

[Merlin]

Some details are in this thread

https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=210.msg1194#msg1194

[pjcd]

Just to add a side note to what charliem said, use the proper grade bolts. I used grade 8 bolts when I swapped out my coupler.