Dometic water valve winterizing

[nolichuckyjake]

Continuing my efforts to simplify my winterization procedure, I looked up what Dometic has to say about their toilet water valve:

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Component_Manuals/Toilets/Dometic_310_series_manual.pdf
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Winterization and storage
When a Dometic toilet is stored for long periods of time or may be exposed to temperatures below
freezing, the toilet must be winterized or stored according to one of the following procedures.

Option 1:
Non-toxic Antifreeze Winterization
(recommended method)

1. Pour antifreeze in potable water tank according to instructions from antifreeze manufacturer.

2. Flush toilet several times until antifreeze has flowed completely through toilet.  For toilets with
    hand sprayer, the hand sprayer must be turned on to assure antifreeze is cycled through the
    sprayer.

Option 2:
Drain Water from Toilet

1. Turn off water supply to toilet.

2. Remove water supply line from water valve.

3. Place a small container under water valve inlet to catch draining water.

4.Press flush pedal and allow water to completely drain from water valve and vacuum breaker.

5. Leave water line disconnected until threat of freezing temperature is past.
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This second method is a bit simpler than removing the water valve.

This is what I'll do this winter.   If it breaks, I have a back-up, but since Dometic approves the method, I'm thinking it wont break.

[Merlin]

Option 2 is what I use each winter and can confirm that it works fine, at least down to -27F 

[DavidM]

The first time I winterized mine, I used the second method. I disconnected the water supply line and depressed the flush valve. Maybe I didn't leave it down long enough. There is a water column that remains in the tube from the valve to the toilet rim. Maybe leaving the flush valve down long enough will let it flow back and drain dry, but if so it takes a long while.

I remove the valve and blow it dry while depressing the flush valve. That has worked for me the last two winters.

David

[Diversteve]

I bought this little baby, it lets me pump nontoxic antifreeze into all of the trailer lines with out putting antifreeze into the water heater or potable water tank. first i drain the water lines then flush them with air and pump the antifreeze into the lines.
No busted lines yet.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Pump-Converter-Winterizing/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510971298&sr=1-5&keywords=rv+water+heater+bypass+kit

[Chappy133]

I did the same as diversteve with success. I also keep a spare dometic toilet valve in the camper in case I didn't.

[Capt J-rod]

I use the diver Steve valve. We don't drink the water from the tank anyways. It washes hands, bodies, dishes, and flushes the toilet. After a week or so the taste is gone. I throw a little bleach in the first tank for good measure. We buy the 2.5 gallon jugs for drinking and coffee. As long as you use propylene glycol it is considered food grade. Sadly it is found in some of our food and the cinnamon whiskey fireball. I wouldn't be drinking it straight, but it won't kill you. Knock on wood, between all my boat motors, campers, vacant rentals, power washers etc I've never had a problem.

[dlb53151]

Apologies in advance for my stupid question / request:

I need visuals to guide me through the winterizing process.  (I have a 2016 CL16TBS.).  Simplest option preferred.  I do have a compressor. 

Can't I just put the compressor blowout plug into the city water inlet and blow the water out, with sink faucet and shower on, followed by emptying the grey and black water tanks, followed by dumping some rv antifreeze in the ptraps?

Thanks for any help!!!




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[DavidM]

Apologies in advance for my stupid question / request:

I need visuals to guide me through the winterizing process.  (I have a 2016 CL16TBS.).  Simplest option preferred.  I do have a compressor. 

Can't I just put the compressor blowout plug into the city water inlet and blow the water out, with sink faucet and shower on, followed by emptying the grey and black water tanks, followed by dumping some rv antifreeze in the ptraps?

Thanks for any help!!!

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You can do it this way with a couple of other techniques added:

Remove the drain plug/zinc fitting from the hot water heater and let it drain out. Make sure that you release any water pressure before you do this. It is a good time to replace the zinc. Look for Dometic hot water heater zinc on Amazon. Then blow out the systems as you describe. But also do the toilet by holding down the flush lever for several seconds until you just get air. Also do the external shower fitting.

Remove the filter cover to the raw water pump and dump any water. Then disconnect the discharge fitting from the pump and run it for a few seconds to blow out any water. I don't think the blowing you did previously gets that water out.

Then put a cupful of the pink stuff antifreeze in the traps including the shower.

From the above extra steps, you can see that air blowing isn't really any easier (or more effective) than just running the pump and opening all of the taps. The only thing extra you have to do when you antifreeze this way is remove the toilet's flush valve and blow (with your mouth!) any water out. The air blowing procedure will get that water out if you depress the flush valve.

David

[dlb53151]

Can you please clarify what you meant by the filter cover and discharge fitting to the pump?  I want to make sure I understand what those are. Thanks


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[DavidM]

The pump has a round body filter usually aspart of the pump on the suction side. It has a screw off lid that you remove and rotate the body (if not already so) to dump any water out. The discharge side of the pump has a PEX fitting that you break and run the pump for a few seconds to get any water out of the body.

David

[Merlin]

Can you please clarify what you meant by the filter cover and discharge fitting to the pump?  I want to make sure I understand what those are. Thanks


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David described the filter draining well. To give you a visual, here is what you're looking for in the pump compartment. https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-Trailer-Filter-Fresh-Strainer/dp/B01KR7AIP2

[Pinstriper]

Apologies in advance for my stupid question / request:

I need visuals to guide me through the winterizing process.  (I have a 2016 CL16TBS.).  Simplest option preferred.  I do have a compressor. 

Can't I just put the compressor blowout plug into the city water inlet and blow the water out, with sink faucet and shower on, followed by emptying the grey and black water tanks, followed by dumping some rv antifreeze in the ptraps?

Thanks for any help!!!

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This is essentially what I do. But as David says, you want to remove the anode/plug from the water heater and replace if necessary. And dont forget to do the toilet and outside shower as well.

I start by opening the low point drain valves and the water heater anode. Then I close those off, apply pressured air to all valves from the top down. Shower first, kitchen sink, outside shower hot and cold, toilet. Then I open the low point drains again, more air pressure. Finally I run the pump while also blowing air. Around the horn again to each valve to confirm nothing but air in the system at all points, then seal up the drain valves while leaving the shower and sink open.

Three times running and no leaks. Temps reached the teens each year. The trailer is stored in the open bay of the barn.

I DO run a dehumidifier all winter, which actually heats the trailer interior a bit. This won't help the outside shower valves, but it does make an extra few degrees safety for everything else, the toilet in particular. Not to mention no mold or mildew growth despite the rainy PNW winter.


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[Merlin]

I copycat what Pinstriper does and have had no damage down to -27F, except for the black tank flush line which seems to resist the air method. I need to install a low point drain valve in that line.

[dlb53151]

Please clarify what you mean when you run the compressed air from the top down.  Also, if I didn't use the outside shower, I still need to blow that out? 


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[Pinstriper]

Please clarify what you mean when you run the compressed air from the top down.  Also, if I didn't use the outside shower, I still need to blow that out? 


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I use a compressor to force air through from the city water supply. The highest point in the system is the shower. I do that first. Then sink. Then toilet. Then outside shower.

I actually repeat that cycle, including with the pump on.

The entire system had water in it, whether you used it or not only affects whether water went past the valve. We are concerned with water still in the system that did not pass, and using air to push it through and out at every point.


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