Some important items

[djsamuel]

I wanted to start a topic where we could post some important topics carried over from the other site.

Paul, if you have an issue, please feel free to delete.

[djsamuel]

LOCKED INSIDE OF CAMPER (from whoofit):

I was yesterday. The trailer would not let me leave. I was kidnapped O.J. Simpson style. Glad I had enough food and water to last the 20 minutes it took for me to find the proper square bit and disassemble the door latch mech. I was gonna jump out of a window but I removed the big red EXIT label from the wall and couldn't remember which window I was supposed to use.

I suggest you take the time to disassemble the door latch mech and add some Locktite or fingernail polish to the two screws that contain the deadbolt slide. This before someone gets emotionally injured.

This has been a public service announcement

[djsamuel]

SLIDE OUT TROUBLESHOOTING (video originally posted by tinkeringtechie)

https://youtu.be/xojUdPDWNS0

[djsamuel]

LATEST PHONE NUMBERS FOR LIVINLITE (according to djmiller):

Parts & Warranty is: 260-768-2099
Customer Service is: 260-768-4016 Ext 405

[djsamuel]

BENT COUPLER (charliem):

Here's my fix for the bent coupler on my 21RBS.



Don N. at LL was kind enough to send me the heavier coupler they use on their larger trailers. Although I believe the OEM coupler could have been straightened and made to serve with the addition of the side bolts, I elected to go with the heavier coupler and be sure. The new coupler weighs 9.875# vs. 7.25# for the original, requires a 2+5/16" ball, and must be positioned to accommodate the jack hole, but it can be drilled and mounted adequately. The coupler is first aligned with the jack hole, clamped, and marked in four places from below with a ½" drill. Then the coupler can be removed and drilled to fit.



With the coupler reinstalled the side holes can be drilled through the coupler and outside surfaces of the two frame members. I considered stainless bolts, but went with ½" dia. 13 TPI Grade 8 high strength bolts so I could torque them to 80 ft-lbs. Six ½" x 0.1' thick washers were added to each side to make a tight stack when torqued. The side bolts were drilled 2.25" up from the bottom of the frame and 1" in from the front edge of the frame. I used 2" long bolts with flat and lock washers. The resulting bolts position as shown.



The new coupler is 0.20" thick vs. 0.16" for the OEM and requires the larger ball. Theoretically the new coupler is 56% stronger in bending strength than the OEM [(0.20/0.16)**2] so it might work without the side bolts and the OEM might work with only the added side bolts, but I wanted to opt for overkill. The couplers are designed to be welded. If steel cannot be welded to aluminum the side bolts are required. Top bolts alone are marginal.

I emphasize that this is a solution, not the solution. The best solution would be for LL to recognize that some customers will require a WDH on this sized trailer and install an adequate coupler at the factory. They apparently have done so on their larger toy haulers. Even without the WDH contribution a coupler/ball combo rated at 5000# is marginal for a trailer rated at 5000# GVWR with 7000# axles. Two inch balls rated above 5000# are available, but the 2+5/16" is just nice. I haven't towed with this yet so the proof is still in the future, but it looks and feels good. Stay tuned.

Thanks to Don at LL for his help and cooperation. I will forward this info to him for their consideration.

[djsamuel]

WINDOW SHADE SOURCE:

They are from Dometic, and their official name is "Dometic SEITZ Mini-double cassette roller blind / roof window roller blind 1302".  I can't find a source for somewhere in the US.  They are really nice though.

http://www.hellotrade.com/dometic-waeco-international-halle/roof-window-roller-blind.html

[djsamuel]

Breakaway Battery Rewiring (charliem):

I just made this mod today to remove the small breakeaway battery and rewire the brake to the main battery. As supplied the breakaway system uses a small motorcycle battery that is NOT recharged by the main converter or the TV. Thus it must be checked and recharged manually to main its function. CL is the only manufacturer I know of that does this. All other trailers rely on the main trailer battery.

There is a very simple way of implementing this mod. All the wires required are in the small rectangular junction box next to the breakaway battery.




The black wire from the breakaway switch to the positive of the breakaway battery (BB) runs through this box and exits on the top left. It then goes directly to the BB positive. The second terminal from the left, with the heavy red wire on the bottom, is the house battery positive. That red wire goes directly to the positive of the house battery. So just disconnect the BB positive, pull a little slack into the junction box, cut and install a crimp lug, and connect to the second leftmost terminal. Remove BB and place on your desk as paperweight. Now your breakaway system will always be ready and you save 3-1/2 pounds of tongue weight

[rideandfly]

Thanks for posting.

There is so much good information on the old website we hope can be saved.

[Pinstriper]

Don't forget the bear attack videos.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Paul]

Good Idea!


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Pro

[Pinstriper]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noCWtagaDJQ

[dlb53151]

I bought the Bulldog coupler (44150) to
upgrade my 16TBS based on these posts.  I am not sure I am comfortable installing - am not a handyman;).  Any suggestions?  It doesn't seem that difficult but when it comes to a component like this I don't want to take any risks.  Thanks




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[charliem]

I bought the Bulldog coupler (44150) to
upgrade my 16TBS based on these posts.  I am not sure I am comfortable installing - am not a handyman;).  Any suggestions?  It doesn't seem that difficult but when it comes to a component like this I don't want to take any risks.  Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Installing that coupler is not as simple as it might appear. It requires drilling six new additional holes, several with some precision. If you're not familiar with and have access to large power drills and are not able to precisely position the holes it may be best to get some help. What year is your 16TBS and what coupler is on it now? Can you post a picture of the side of the existing coupler?

[DavidM]

Why are you installing that monster. That cast coupler will be a bear to drill.

My 2013 16tbs has been fine with the 5,000 lb oem coupler, but to be really safe drill two holes for 9/16" bolts through the coupler sides and frame. Search for older threads- lots of pics.

David

[dlb53151]

Took advice from Tinkeringtechie on it.  Here is his pic