Not entirely happy with WDH install...what to do?

[mojospeople]

So you might chalk this up as the amateur thinking they know more than the pros with one caveat - I (with assistance of my DH) installed the same hitch on our previous camper so I think I understand how it's supposed to be set up.

I had our dealer install our Andersen Anti-sway w/d hitch while we waited when picking up after a warranty repair. I should have been more patient and asked more questions at the time but sometimes I get too caught up in not being "that" customer. IE I'm too nice.

The first thing I noticed was that the bolts had 8 threads showing. I wondered if the compression nuts were over-tightened. When we got it home I realized that the compression nuts weren't actually that tight. It's actually that the mounting brackets are not mounted far enough back on the trailer frame so to just get the nuts hand tight about 7 threads are showing. I know the manual says to install the brackets where 1 or 2 threads show when hand tightened.

Additionally the rear of the TV is lower than I thought it should be. So that means I need a little more w/d by tightening the compression bolts some more. However, because the brackets aren't far enough back and the bolt is already showing 7 threads, the provided deep well socket bottoms out on the bolt with only 1 additional thread. For reference I did weigh the whole set up with and without w/d and it appears that the additional 1 thread of tension moved 40 lbs off the TV to the trailer axle.

So that leaves two options for the chains/bolts - move the brackets back or shorten the chains. I'm not real happy about relocating the set screws on the frame but I suppose it won't hurt anything, right?

So, I guess I know what needs done and I'm really just venting and also a word of caution to others to A) if you know how, do it yourself. Even if you don't know how to do it, do it yourself and get the intimate knowledge from having done it yourself. That way you'll know when something is off. B) if you have someone else do it, be "that" customer who asks the zillion questions and makes them answer to your satisfaction or re-do the job.

If you read this far, thanks. If you have any pointers/corrections and reply, many thanks!

[tinkeringtechie]

Don't move the brackets, just attach the D-ring to the next link in the chain (or however many links it takes):

[mojospeople]

Forgot to mention I tried that but couldn't get the clevis (?) pin through the link. I'll try again and let you know if it worked.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[tinkeringtechie]

You could also use a quick link as your last link and connect it to an existing link further up.

[Pinstriper]

Forgot to mention I tried that but couldn't get the clevis (?) pin through the link. I'll try again and let you know if it worked.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

Back off the chain tension first ?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[mojospeople]

No tension. Appears either the links are smaller or the pin bigger. May have to go with the quick link idea. Don't know why I didn't think of that already.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[Merlin]

Couple notes.....

Andersen allows a maximum of 3 links worth of shortening. More than that makes for too sharp an angle on the chain system.

If you use a quick link to make the connection to the clevis pin, make sure it's rated for the load.

[mojospeople]

Couple notes.....

Andersen allows a maximum of 3 links worth of shortening. More than that makes for too sharp an angle on the chain system.

If you use a quick link to make the connection to the clevis pin, make sure it's rated for the load.

One link is probably all I need to shorten.
What do you suppose the load rating should be? The quick links I found that were of the same diameter as the links of the hitch chain are rated at 1980#.

[tinkeringtechie]

Couple notes.....

Andersen allows a maximum of 3 links worth of shortening. More than that makes for too sharp an angle on the chain system.

If you use a quick link to make the connection to the clevis pin, make sure it's rated for the load.

One link is probably all I need to shorten.
What do you suppose the load rating should be? The quick links I found that were of the same diameter as the links of the hitch chain are rated at 1980#.

I emailed Andersen about quick links a while back and specifically asked if the 2200# 3/8" links that I was looking at were sufficient and they said it "should be fine". Are yours also 3/8"?

[mojospeople]

Following up, I used the quick links (rated at about 1900#) and shortened by 3 links. It seems a little noisy so I wonder if the angle is too sharp. I should've taken pictures.

I was able to raise the rear of the TV about 1/2" which made me happy. Also moved about 60 lbs to the trailer axle. Not sure how much was moved to the front axle because the first weigh was without my husband and two dogs and some gear (~350 lbs).

Overall the towing experience was improved. I'm sure I'll keep tinkering though