QS 10.0 (2010) - replaced my Air Conditioner (slide-out with hatch)

[jddj]

Hi all, (cross-posting from Livin' Light board...)

I realize this forum is only lightly-trafficked now, but it's a common hit for info on my camper, so placing this here so someone in need can find it.

I fretted over how to do this for a long time before pulling the trigger. I finally determined it was time when this spring at Sebring I was able to use the old A/C to get the interior of the camper a bit warmer than it was outside.

The old A/C was a GE:

GE AEH05LMG1 - 5200 BTU 
Body 17-3/4 w at coils/exterior end, 12-3/4 deep from coils end, 12-1/4 high at pull tab 
GE Spec dimensions: 12 7/16 H x 17 11/16 W x 13 5/16 D

As I looked for a replacement, I noted that there are higher-capacity, more efficient, and smaller units available, but what I was really looking for was:

- something of equal or better BTU 
- that has a remote 
- that is pretty close to fitting the hole.

I chose an LG LW6024R (no, they aren't paying me, nor do I get money from Bezos) because it's 6,000 BTU, and the measurements are:

12.83"D x 17.31"W x 11.13"H

The cord is on the right side (looking at it from the control panel), but that thing is in the way no matter how it goes in. The plug is a little thicker (but smaller in width/height) than the interruptor plug on the GE. Haven't had the whole camper unfurled yet to see that fit.

I discovered I could replace the A/C without opening the camper. I opened the hatch, pulled the AC out on its slides (which are just somewhat robust drawer slides), and unscrewed the 4 sheet-metal self-tapping screws which held the body of the A/C to a couple of aluminum planks at the end of the slides.

These planks and the self-tapping screws looked pretty janky to me, but I embraced the jank and plopped the new A/C in about the same place on the planks, then looked for where to drill.

Note that I'm not telling you to drill into your A/C. Just describing what I did. If you drill into your A/C, you're doing it on your own and I take no responsibility for damage, death or danger.

I HAD TO BE CAREFUL DRILLING INTO THE NEW A/C. I shouldn't have to say this, but I realize that there are plenty of places where drilling into the bottom of the A/C, or placing self-tapping screws may penetrate a refrigerant line or someplace else that is, and should stay pressurized with refrigerant. The info on the A/C indicates that Hell surely awaits if any of that now-flammable refrigerant escapes.

I was careful and didn't puncture anything. I did have to drill a couple new holes in the janky aluminum plates. I got new hex-head self-tapping #8 screws, and secured the new A/C

With that finished and the A/C mounted and sliding in and out, I went over to mounting foam insulation around the perimeter of the A/C to seal it against the existing rubber weatherstripping when the A/C was pulled to working position.

I used black weatherstrip adhesive (I got 3M - they know what they're doing) and followed carefully the instructions to make sure the surface was CLEAN and DRY (gluing weatherstrip to dirt wasn't going to seal my camper). I mounted non-adhesive 1" foam rubber "Air Conditioner Weatherstripping" - purchased as a couple 6' rolls from the hardware store - all around the A/C. I had to note how far I needed to pull the A/C out to run properly before deciding on a mounting spot. I picked right about where I would've mounted the sliding side-panels for the A/C if I were really mounting in a window.

All in place, when I pull the A/C out on its slides, it seals well against the factory weatherstrip.

I'm looking forward to having a little better cooling this summer.