Does bluetooth work in an aluminum camper? Victron vs. Renogy

[RV Squirrel]

Thanks.  I just bought a hydraulic crimper at HFT for $70... but I haven't opened it yet.  I'm debating whether I should return it.

I've been looking into breakers.  There are a lot of cheap ones out there.  I'm assuming that Buss breakers from Blue Seas are quality stuff. 
- Any thoughts on the 187 Series versus the 285 series?  Both are available in panel mount and surface mount.  However, he 285 series seems to be a little smaller and less expensive.
- The 285 series is rated at 3000A at 48V (higher than the 1500A rating for the 187 series), but do not have an amperage rating for 12-14VDC.  Can I still use them for 12-14VDC?

BatteryCableUsa seems to have different types of stranded cable.  David... thanks for the recommendation.  They have a "rubber welding cable" (https://www.batterycablesusa.com /welding-cable-rubber-battery-cable) that is touted for "tight spaces".  I have tight spaces!  However, this cable type is only available for 6AWG to 2/0AWG. 
- Given that I would like to use 8AWG, should I use the "Battery Cable Flexible" (https://www.batterycablesusa.com/UL-flexible-multi-rated) instead?  I'm hoping to get a 1" or less bend radius if possible.

I've been looking at crimps (wire lugs?).  Most of what I need will be 8AWG, with either a 5/16"or 1/4" ring. 
- Should I get tinned copper or just plain copper?  Since this is not a boat, I'm thinking that plain copper is fine. 
- I notice that some crimps have a flare at the bottom of the collar... but these tend to be for larger wire gauges (2AWG).  Is a flare important for 8AWG?
- BatteryCableUse sells tinned crimps that are flared but this is by the piece.  I'm wondering if I should get an assortment of crimps that are plain copper without the flare... any thoughts?

[DavidM]

The very flexible cable has many more fine strands which makes it flexible. Never used it except for battery jumping but it should work fine although it is not tinned.

For ring crimps, the only advice I can give is don't use the short ones with short insulation. A longer one gives more latitude as to where to crimp and the insulation extends beyond the metal for better insulation protection.

Never used a hydraulic crimper. Sounds like an extravagance. A simple jointed mechanical one that multiplies the leverage should work fine for 6 or 8 gauge. For 10 gauge and under I use a simple pliers type.

You might try searching further for cable. Maybe places like Harbor Freight sell it.

David

[Merlin]

Although I admit I've paid premium prices by ordering wire and crimps from a solar supply company, I decided the peace of mind getting good stuff was worth it. This place sells wire that's just right for the kind of work you're doing, as well as crimps and connectors.

https://www.solar-electric.com/search/?q=Cable+%238

I have always used the 187 Blue Seas breakers because they also are easy to operate switches.

Like David, I've used jointed mechanical crimping tools for big wire up to 8 gauge and simple plier crimpers for tiny stuff up to 16 gauge. For the big wires like 00 or even 4/0 to inverters I've custom ordered the cable with lugs crimped. Note that auto supply stores sell 4 gauge lugged battery cables in a wide variety of lengths ready to go.

The flare on a crimp is irrelevant to the connection, it just makes it easier to get the lug over the wire stands.

[RV Squirrel]

Thanks for all of the good info.  Can I purchase "bare" ring crimps and use my own shrink tubing, and make the insulation as long as I like?

I've decided to reduce the number of switches, fuses and breakers so that I can fit everything on one side of the board.  I'll be using one 80A series 187 breaker, 8AWG regular "flexible" (MTW/THW/SGT) cable, 2 6-post terminals, and my existing shunt.  I'll probably get the cable from Batterycablesusa.com or Solar-Electric and then get copper wire lugs (without the flare on the bottom) there or from amazon.  I've checked, and Harbor Freight doesn't sell that type of cable.  I'll wait until later to add the inverter, in which case I'll use separate 6AWG cable.

I discovered that I live around 1/2 hour from https://shop.pkys.com/ .  It seems that their prices are comparable to amazon, and in some cases lower.  It should be fun to browse as well.  Most of the inventory is for maritime applications (in Annapolis MD), so they only have tinned cable and lugs, but I think that I'll be able to save some on the bus bars.  Unfortunately, the bus bars don't have covers.  I'm thinking of making something using the 3D printer at the public library (another fun project for later).

[DavidM]

Wow, I knew Peter Kennedy in Annapolis some 23 years ago. He recommended and sold me a Balmar regulator I was upgrading my new sailboat alternator with. Looks like his business is doing well.

David

[RV Squirrel]

Based on the good info that I got from this thread, I made some purchases for a lithium battery upgrade... including a solar controller, DC-DC converter, and other items.  I recently began to install the equipment, and started a new thread at Lithium Battery Upgrade.

Thanks to all who helped so far!