LOOSE WALL 21 BHS Forward section of Slideout to front pass through door.

Started by Fatdog2, April 11, 2019, 09:07:20 PM

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Fatdog2

April 11, 2019, 09:07:20 PM
If you have a slide out on any kind on Livin-Lite I highly recommend you check the bottom edge of the wall to see if it has come loose. That's right see if it's loose and pulled away from the interior black trim. Mine moved out about 1/4" as I noticed it when I was looking for any water leaks after a really bad rain storm while the camper was in storage lot. After seeing the gap, I pushed from the outside and the wall moved from forward compartment hatch to the front wheel fender skirt. Today I removed the black trim on inside, and removed the black diamond plate on the outside.  I also removed the plastic fender trim. I found all of the screws has snapped off from vibration and the weight of the slide out flexing the bottom of the wall. When I put the slide out the gap decreased. 

The outer wall skin overlaps the 3 inch aluminum rectangular  frame channel. The outer wall had 4 screw from the forward pass through to the first Wheel. which is very few screws, one set was 24" OC which was the last two screws by slide out and first fender.  The screw were tapered head which gives absolutely no holding power compared to the button head screw. You can see the last screw sawed into the aluminum skin. I bought #12 Philips head zinc coated Button Head sheet metal screws. I used a block of wood and clamps to pull the wall up against the frame rail and drilled and screwed in the screws. I installed the new screw about 2 3/4 inches up so more of the wall skin would be clamped and not just the edge. It brought the wall back to original position and no more flexing when moving the slide in and out. Then I reinstalled the original diamond plate cover and trim on inside of the camper.  Tomorrow some marine clear caulking to seal the edge of trim like it was done at the factory. The inside wall is back to it's original position.
It was a simple and easy fix that anyone can do, so don't hesitate to investigate and DIY.  I love the fact that anything and everything can be easily fixed on my Livin-Lite.  I Hope this helps someone else and do check your walls especially around the slide outs as they put a lot of flex and pressure on the wall.

Fatdog2

#1
April 11, 2019, 09:29:11 PM Last Edit: April 11, 2019, 09:32:09 PM by Fatdog2
Here's a few more pictures, screw hole and screw, and added screws, I did add a couple more screw around the slide out area that were not in the 3rd picture. and finished product. Just like new, ready for our next trip.

Merlin

#2
April 11, 2019, 11:02:00 PM
Thanks so much for posting this and taking the time to include the photos. Good work. I'm going to check around the slide-out on mine as soon as this storm passes tomorrow.
Michigan

Fatdog2

#3
April 12, 2019, 10:43:48 AM
Your welcome Merlin, at first I was quite surprised, but then after taking the trim off and looking at it, it was a simple fix.   There was some gray sealant on inside rail frame, but it looked more for sealing than a  glue bonding joint. Every time we pull the camper in the drive way we excited to hit the road, it's the perfect camper.

Fatdog2

#4
April 28, 2019, 01:31:00 PM
I have an update on my Loose Wall screw inspection, as I checked the aft section of the slide out wall and the outer screws were much larger than what they installed on the forward section. That was nice to see and no movement on any other wall sections.

Paul

#5
April 29, 2019, 12:46:58 PM
Quote from: Fatdog2 on April 28, 2019, 01:31:00 PM
I have an update on my Loose Wall screw inspection, as I checked the aft section of the slide out wall and the outer screws were much larger than what they installed on the forward section. That was nice to see and no movement on any other wall sections.

That is great!
2014 Ford Escape
2015 Camplite 13QBB
2016 Ford F150
2018 Ford F150
2018 Camplite 21BHS

jandi

#6
July 19, 2019, 10:26:43 AM
Fat Dog,
           I'm new to this forum, I've been hanging out at the old Livin-Lite forum. You may have just saved me a boatload of time and trouble ! I have the very same problem with my 2014 21-BHS but a little worse. I first thought it was only a slideout mechanism problem but then found it to be much more. In my trailer not only is the wall out over 1/2 inch at the bottom I also found out the structural frame of the dinette is also coming apart. Not hard to believe with only 2 #10 screws on each side holding all that weight. Your advice and pictures will be very helpful, thank you.

Powder Hounds

#7
July 22, 2019, 11:57:34 AM
Hello!

We have a 2015 RBS and I have noticed a small gap between the wall and floor, the last few weeks it has separated a little more. Turns out it is the exact same issue as you had. And it is in the same area as well. Rig is in for bearing service and an axle alignment, then I will tackle the wall issue.

Thanks for posting, makes the repair a lot easier and will give more insight for other owners as well.

Cheers!

Powder Hounds

#8
August 12, 2019, 11:53:18 AM
Hello,

Removed the diamond plate yesterday and found the exact same issue you had. Some new SS metal screws and construction adhesive to seal things up.

Thanks for your original post!

Fatdog2

#9
August 25, 2019, 12:17:04 PM
Power Hounds, I used pan head screw and it does push out the black trim a bit I rather have than and a solid hold than the tapered screw head. Glad the post help you ID your wall issue too. 

Powder Hounds

#10
June 14, 2020, 11:35:39 PM
Well, back at another section now. From the entry door back to the wheel wells. I had a substantial wall gap closer to the wheel wells approximately 3/4". Does not give me the warm fuzzy feeling.

The extra fun part was removing all the over torqued and corroded screws, most of them had to be extracted because they instantly stripped. Very time consuming. My all time favourite part was removing the aluminum sheet metal from the cabinet below the stereo. I think it had 8 screws and double sided tape. They use a couple screws to hold a wall but go well beyond to hold a piece of non structural sheet metal. Frustrating. I had to get in there before to caulk the wall gaps, easier the second time. Now I know why I had this problem to begin with.

Very slow going getting the diamond plate off, it was tucked under the door frame. As with all the silicone caulking. Bonus, figured out why my plastic wheel wells cracked all in the same spot, will show that on another post.

This situation just gets worse with time, if you see gaps around the cabinets or at the floor/ wall area you know what has to be done. Dust and dirt inside after driving is the tell tail sign.



GrampaKilt

#11
June 15, 2020, 11:48:09 AM
I know, I know, I know...about stainless steel and aluminum. But the sight of rusted steel (electrogalvanized??) screws against aluminum plate still rattles my cage about the 'never rust' Camplite. The workmanship on PH's CL is also tragic and disturbing.

Given that it's a tiny stainless entity into an aluminum mass, I do use SS screws as replacements when I come across the rusted ones. Also, it never hurts to put some Noalox (anti-oxidant compound used for aluminum electrical wire connections) on the SS screw before seating it. GK

dlb53151

#12
June 15, 2020, 11:49:26 PM
What brand / type of silicone is the best for resealing / recaulking the trailer?


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