Brake cable cut

[Paul]

I noticed that the cable to the brakes seem like it has a cut on it. The brakes operate as normal. Should I worry or at least tape it?

[Pinstriper]

Yeah, fix that.


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[Paul]

How? Just tape it?

[Pinstriper]

Cut back to good wire and reconnect.

If you find you dont have any length, run a new wire and this time put a couple loops in it for the future.


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[Paul]

After a closer look it seem like it's only the rubber that was cut i can see the metal a bit under it but it seem intact, will electrical tape be enough for now?

[Pinstriper]

Yes, electrical tape will cover it up so you don't see the corrosion happening. Everything will work fine. You will know when it finally fails, because your trailer won't stop. Then you know it is time to fix it.


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[DavidM]

As Pinstriper notes above, if the wire strands aren't cut, and they don't appear to be from your pic, then tape around the cut and then extend the tape around the three wires to hold them together. Then when you get back from your trip you can look into a more permanent fix.

For the permanent fix, a yellow 10-14 gauge crimp connector should work fine. Twist the two wires together and crimp into one end of the connector and crimp the other wire into the other end.

I don't much like those block connectors. As discussed in another recent thread, the one at the battery developed a bad connection and had to be replaced.

David

[Paul]

Ok thanks to both of you I will use electrical tape for now but will look into a better permanent fix

[ADR]

When using tape outdoors I like to paint the tape with the StarBrite Liquid Electrical Tape.   Another tip- stretch the tape slightly as you wrap but do not stretch the last turn and cut it don't tear it.  Try to stick it down without putting you fingers on the sticky side.

As for tape I only use Scotch 33 or 88.   Most other tape is crap after weathering.  I've had 33 taped connections last for 20 years outdoors.

[Paul]

When using tape outdoors I like to paint the tape with the StarBrite Liquid Electrical Tape.   Another tip- stretch the tape slightly as you wrap but do not stretch the last turn and cut it don't tear it.  Try to stick it down without putting you fingers on the sticky side.

As for tape I only use Scotch 33 or 88.   Most other tape is crap after weathering.  I've had 33 taped connections last for 20 years outdoors.

That is good to know thanks for the advice

[Pinstriper]

For the record, I was being sarcastic about waiting to fix it. It looks like a pretty deep cut into the insulation and while you dan't see in the photo, quite possibly the wire is exposed.

David's fix of a wrap of tape is a get-you-home fix, if the wire is exposed. Moisture will get under the tape and corrode the wire without you seeing it, and your first indication will be when you have an accident because the brakes fail.

I do agree with a dislike of the block connectors, but I also distrust crimps. I would use waterproof wire nuts, or actually solder the wires and heat shrink insulation. Even then I would use the liquid tape over it for a little extra.

There are also butt connectors the look like crimps but are actually solder and heat shrink in one. The heat first melts the solder, then completes a heat shrink.

In any case if you run a new wire, put a pigtail on it. Thats a coil of wire maybe 2" in diameter, held together in this case with a small zip-tie to give you some length for a future repair or re-splice but not dangling in the way of anything or at risk of snagging.


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[Paul]

For the record, I was being sarcastic about waiting to fix it. It looks like a pretty deep cut into the insulation and while you dan't see in the photo, quite possibly the wire is exposed.

David's fix of a wrap of tape is a get-you-home fix, if the wire is exposed. Moisture will get under the tape and corrode the wire without you seeing it, and your first indication will be when you have an accident because the brakes fail.

I do agree with a dislike of the block connectors, but I also distrust crimps. I would use waterproof wire nuts, or actually solder the wires and heat shrink insulation. Even then I would use the liquid tape over it for a little extra.

There are also butt connectors the look like crimps but are actually solder and heat shrink in one. The heat first melts the solder, then completes a heat shrink.

In any case if you run a new wire, put a pigtail on it. Thats a coil of wire maybe 2" in diameter, held together in this case with a small zip-tie to give you some length for a future repair or re-splice but not dangling in the way of anything or at risk of snagging.


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My plan was to tape it for my trip and when I am back to go somewhere to get it fixed, I don't feel confortable doing the job, unless you tell me it's super easy? The wire is almost not exposed, just a tiny bit. But I do agree that taping it is only temporary and I need to do a permanent fix.

[Pinstriper]

I have been working with dc wiring since I was in second grade, so yeah it is easy, once someone shows you.

Spend some time on youtube. The videos at etrailer are good and all, but man they love them some snap connectors and they just don't seal.


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[Merlin]

I can't figure out why eTrailer uses those snap connectors. The inevitable damage and corrosion they cause by not sealing are probably a leading cause of trailer light failure.

[Pinstriper]

It isn't just the lights. Use the one a brake line and the trailer stops stopping.


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