How to drill hole in wall of 2014 14DBS for external porch lite

[RV Squirrel]

I have a 2014 14DBS.  I hope to install a porch light under the awning... similar to what was originally installed next to the door.  If I install the new light at the same height as the original light, the hole for the wiring will be around 5" below the tray that conceals the wiring for the ceiling and running lights.  This would be an eyesore.  Does anyone have any tips for have to run the wiring through the external wall, without making too many holes in the aluminum framing?  If someone had a diagram of the aluminum framing, that would be great!

[GrampaKilt]

Here's a small video of a Camplite 16' skeleton circa 2014 which came in handy when I installed a front window in my 2014 DB. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZtOIbisE4M I've found the framing to be accurate for mods in other areas. Surprising how little 'studding' there is!

In the area in question, there should be little difficulty accessing an exterior hole 5" below the tray. Make a hole about 5/8" outside where you want the light, then another, obviously vertically inline into the adzel behind the tray. (A step bit is great for these hole types.) Poke a coat hanger wire with pulling string attached using CA glue instead of electrical tape (thinner, less resistance) upwards from the outside and thru the styrofoam. Have another person watch the adzel hole inside and use a forcep to grap the string for wire pulling.

My plan for this area is to add an LED lightstrip under the awning, a feature many TT's now have. I'll take power from the existing porch light, run some wire inside the frame for a few inches and exit at the roof line. An inconspicuous DPST switch on the porch light housing will allow me to switch between the LED strip or the porch light.

Good idea mod. Hope this helps. GK

[RV Squirrel]

The video is great.  Thanks.  It explains a lot.  However, if I were to use the approach that you described, wouldn't the coat hanger would get stopped at the horizontal tubing that runs along the top side of the travel trailer?  Is it okay to drill through this tubing?  Will I undermine the structural integrity?  I'd need to drill two holes in the tubing at the same place but 90 degrees apart... one on the bottom of the tubing (for the coat hanger to get through) and another through the interior wall (to get to the wiring tray).

I had that problem when putting a porch lighton the back.  I noticed that the manufacturer drilled many holes through the tubing to install the top runner lights, and could not help but wonder if this weakened the structure.   

Thanks again... I appreciate the insight.

[RV Squirrel]

Went out this morning with a coat hanger, and determined that I had around an inch clearance between the bottom of the wiring tray and the aluminum tubing.  Therefore, I can drill a 5/8 hole just below the tubing and still be high enough that the wire will come out of the wall into the cable tray!  Thanks!   

I have to admit that I confused myself with the work that I had done with the porch light on the rear of the camper.  According to the video that you had sent, there are two aluminum tubes that run across the back of the camper (one bent, one straight).  I figured that that might be the case.  For some reason I was thinking that there were two tubes along the side as well.     

Good luck with the LED lighting.  And thanks for the help.

[GrampaKilt]

You're welcome! I've not seen the multiple holes thing you discovered. The structural impact of small round holes in the aluminum tubing is minuscule and even less considering the panel structure of the trailer itself. But it is symptomatic of poor workmanship. (eg. My overhead compartment across from the sink came crashing down. Turned out, there was only one screw that actually bit into the trailer frame!)

As is usual on this forum, please post a pic of your completed mod. Regards, GK.

[RV Squirrel]

Almost done.  I mounted the light fixture today, and ran 12V power to a new switch.  For power, I'm using the same circuit as the existing porch light.  However, I'm wondering what to do for the power return (i.e., ground).  The return for the existing porch light seems to be grounded someplace where I can't see (or tap off of it)... probably with a wire that is screwed into the aluminum frame.  Right now I was able to test the new porch light by tapping into the return for another circuit, which is indeed grounded (I checked with a voltmeter).  However, I'm wondering if it is better to tap into the return from another circuit, or ground directly to the aluminum frame (which probably wouldn't look too pretty).  I'll be sure to get a picture when I'm done.

Lesson learned... when trying to get through the styrofoam inside the wall from the outside of the trailer, be careful not to punch through the wall on the inside.  I used a long pointed bamboo stick (think really big kabob) to try to pierce the styrofoam, and got a little too enthusiastic.  It went clear through to the inside of the cabin.  Fortunately the hole wasn't too bad and will be covered by the cable tray.  I tried the cyanoacrylate to get the string through, but was gluing myself to too many things.

[GrampaKilt]

Me again.

I'm surprised the original porch light's -ve doesn't go back the breaker box where they ground en masse to the floor aluminum. IMO it's OK to tap into another -ve. Those wires are sized for the std 15A ATC fuse, meaning 14 gauge. There's plenty of current space left.

Sorry about the CA trick, I actually use an activator with the glue, instantly dry...

Now for the next mod...highly recommend a battery monitor if you don't already have one. If you like blue tooth, Victron is the brand to get. If you don't need BT, the Aili TR16 has the same functionality for a fraction of the price. Regards, GK

[RV Squirrel]

What does "-ve" mean?  Negative volts emphysema? 

I found the return (or what whatever it's called) for the original porch lite.  It was tied to the zip cord that provided the power.  So I ran an extra line from that one to the new lights that I installed, and removed to connection to other circuits.  Feel better now.

I've attached pictures, I think.  I'm new at this.  The first is the new amber porch light.  It's pretty bright, but I had to adjust the camera to reduce glare.  The second is the new white porch light in back (don't mind the tape around the trailer lights... I just replaced these and it was about to rain).  The third is the entrance hole for the white porch light in back... I managed to hide it behind the aluminum strip next to the shower.  The forth is the entrance hole for the amber light.  I replaced the original porch switch with a 3-gang switch so that I can control the lights independently.

Thanks again for your help.

[GrampaKilt]

Oh my, I totally got wrong where you installed the new light. (I thought it was to the right of your entry door.) For light at the rear of the trailer, brilliant idea.

As for my LED strip light install under the awning, my LSW turned up her nose, said it would make our CL look like trailer trash. But she would accept a string light of vintage bulbs.

Oh great! Found out that while 12v LED striplights are ubiquitous, the RV 12v LED string light market has yet to get off the ground. Sure there are plenty that assume shore power, but where are the 12V hard wired, not 50 feet long, shatterproof bulb!! strings. Am I missing something, dear readers who understand the LED technology? For example, is it possible to convert to a 12V system something like this? https://www.amazon.ca/Brightech-Ambience-Powered-Commercial-Weatherproof/dp/B075NS8YXG/ref=sr_1_31?dchild=1&keywords=outdoor+led+string+lights&qid=1594310680&sr=8-31

Regards, GK

[RV Squirrel]

Actually, I installed two lights.  One in the rear (white) and one on the side (amber).  I installed the amber one because the illumination from the factory-installed light got blocked every time the door was open (which was pretty often, given that our dogs don't like campfire smoke but still want to keep an eye on us from the door of the camper).  I installed the one in the rear because we typically put a folding table there to wash dishes.  I got both lights on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Lumitronics-Euro-Style-Porch-Light/dp/B071KGSD4S/ref=sr_1_573_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=rv+porch+light+led&qid=1589079419&s=automotive&sr=1-573-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySVJFSlhSVEc5UDJXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTI5NTcyMzc2VlpWSjBXNUczSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzE1NTg5MjZNSlEyTlMzNk5SUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2J0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVS1VN/ref=twister_B07RRF6CNK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You had mentioned an ammeter.  I did install an AiLi.  It works fine, but setting up the shunt on the battery took some time.   Now that I have it, I use it often.  An ammeter is a must have if you are relying on your batteries.  Works well with the solar panels too!

Good luck with the LED lights.  I looked at the website briefly, and it did not say anything about 12V power.  It appears that they are solar powered.  Under "technical details" it mentioned that 2 AA batteries were required... which doesn't make sense if it is solar powered, unless the batteries were used as a backup.  If 2AA batteries could be used as a backup, then you would only need 3V. Further down, it also says that it needs 120V, which doesn't make sense unless there was an AC adapter/recharger.  Given the price, I'd be disinclined to experiment with it.

[Merlin]

Thanks for the links to the lights you used. It's always helpful when those who do cool things link to the products. I really like the light on the back idea!

[GrampaKilt]

In a post above, I mentioned that my LSW kyboshed the install of an LED light strip under the awning but was open to a nice string of LED vintage bulbs. No problem, I thought, there should be many offerings of 12V powered, shatterproof (they'll have to come down for every move) vintage string lights for RV awnings. Also, the string should be shorter than the uber long, bulbs 3' apart, back yard types! Alas, after much googling, no such product was found even though it's not a tough circuit to design for even a novice LED geek!

When hope was nearly lost, I finally came across a USB (5V) powered, 25 foot string of 12 bulbs made to look like vintage Edisons with the bulb covering made from shatter resistant acrylic. It might be a little underpowered but I'll take it FTW. This string will be plugged into an exterior approved 12V USB port complete with an on/off switch. I'll tap power from the porch light. Links are below. One puzzling observation. This light string from Amazon Canada is $95CAD plus 12% tax. I ordered it from Amazon USA for $67CAD including shipping to Canada and the taxes. Amazon, sometimes crazy, is. GK (or is it Yoda)

USB String Light  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SW6Y6D3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V USB Port  https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07PZZ9C3N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1