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Messages - GrampaKilt

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1
When do you sleep, Gary M?

Speaking of water, just ordered a 2 gal accumulator tank. https://www.ebay.com/itm/361337105543

When my spouse visits the loo at night, it's not the crawling over me that wakes me up, it's the annoying pump sound below my pillow. Is this, too, on your list? GK

2
Camplite and Bearcat Travel Trailers / Re: battery upgrade questions
« on: July 19, 2018, 11:38:32 PM »
Iíve been avoiding battery and battery charging discussions like the plague. However, I suspect itís an area of knowledge that is unavoidable if I want to improve my 14DB.

According to electrical inspectors, I do excellent work as a non-professional doing my own house wiring, the realm of AC. I learned basic VDC as a child, but am I ever being schooled in the battery world! It will take some background study to fully understand the issues being addressed in this thread.
 
NaÔve I was entering the RV world, especially the TT side. I was shocked by the dogma surrounding TVs, especially on this side of the pond. Once almost beyond criticism, my current thinking is that LL, pre-Thor no less, couldíve done much better. And what about absorption fridges that donít work well in hot weather? Duh! Now I find out that LL (and probably all other manufacturers) do the minimum regarding effective management of battery energy. Whatís the next surprise?

Post-script: After some research, I understand most of this thread. (Itís somewhat of a relief that my mind still works!) Now to convince my LSW about the need for double 6V batteries. GW

3
LOL. No stupid questions, MitchB. I looked for some press fit crack indicating how the unit was assembled, but finally gave up and went with my go-to solution for these kinds of things. Took my dremel cutting disk and cut one side off (the hose side). With everything apart, still no idea how they did it! GK

4
Methinks Rvh20 uses the male end of a quick connect to screw into the existing female hose fitting. For some reason I was determined to install a female quick connect end. Not the wisest move.
Eh bien, as Hercule Poirot would often say. GK

5
I'm not sure of the tank heights in your model, but I needed the short JS senders.

For my fresh water tank, I was able to install the full 6" sender on the rear facing side.
When it came to grey/black tanks, the long (side to side trailer) faces were stepped. Only the ends had vertical surfaces and being less than 6", I had trim the sender by one segment.
Only the port side of the grey tank had enough room for mounting but not so for the black one. The black tank sender is on the rear starboard side.

The Sea Level system works so well, it's one of the best mods I've done. GK

6
Livin Lite General Discussion / Re: Hitch for Ď14 Camplite 13 RDB
« on: July 04, 2018, 12:54:11 AM »
Regarding this topic, I tend to be less conservative than some of the Sr. Members for a variety of reasons. During the first few years of LL, they optioned an extended frame bumper. I think the extension was about 2'. Not aware of the reason for discontinuance, but I don't think it was because of weight torque. (see comment below). For steel bumper-ed trailers, it's not hard to find contraptions that can carry up to 400 lbs back there. If one were to double up the LL rear (aluminum) bumper, I think one of those gizmos would still be good for half that on our trailers. Finally, I attached a storage bin to my bumper. It contains a Honda 2000W genny, 10L of gas and a number of other widgets, likely a max of 100 lbs. My towing experience was unaffected during our last 4000 mile road trip and the box did not twist the bumper in the slightest (despite uber bumpy roads that resulted in my upper cabinet falling!) That's not to say I haven't come close to backing into things, forgetting the bin was there! https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=779.0

IMO, the biggest issue is balance. My 2014 14DB has tandem wheels. Relatively small amounts of cargo to the rear (or full grey/black tanks coupled with a low amount of fresh water) can easily make for really low tongue weights. Just like the big rigs, one always has to be actively involved in weight management.

I won't venture a guess on how much wt. your prototype can handle, but I really like the design, especially the attachment idea to the trailer frame. I concur with other posters' tweaking comments and add one further by recommending the aluminum stock be 1/4" thick if not already. GK


 

7
I found this absorption fridge website that appears to have some veracity. https://www.arprv.com/rv-fridge-fan.php (That said, they tilt towards some paranoia regarding fire potential..)

One comment resonated with me. The point of external fans is not to remove hot air, but to increase/create air flow. Therefore, they recommend a fan at the lower and upper vent and sell a 120 mm ball bearing centrifugal/squirrel cage variety that pushes 25 cfm. The fan runs at relatively a relatively low 1800 rpm and draws only 0.3 amps. I like the fan, but cost is steep @$30USD.

They say the fans are custom spec'd. I can vouch for that. After a long search, I got close (at 1/3 the price), but still only found 120mm or so centrifugal fans that rotate much faster and take twice the amps or more.

If I buy the cheaper fans, add a (resistance) controller to reduce rpms, then according to Ohms Law, I would reduce amps, right? Or am I perplexed (as usual)...or just too darn cheap? GK

8
Ah, the absorption fridge saga! I have done all the mods suggested herein (except the lovely sunshade idea) and still find performance only marginally improved in hot weather. To control an inside circ fan, I installed a temp sensor in the fridge 'ceiling' just in front of the freezer door. It reads in the 70's, even low 80's (with the door closed) during hot days, on propane to boot. (It is accurate since I tested with my body temp.) I remain confused (alas, an ongoing state of mind) since the food was cool but not cold. Maybe as the air cools in the fridge, lingering hot air gets trapped up there?? But why doesn't the circ fan mix it up? The best I got at night (ambient temp 50) was 55.

My next step is to place a thermometer in the main fridge compartment. Depending on what I find, I'll re-route the sensor there. If the seeming lack of hot air forced out of the rear top vent is any indication, the placement of my large computer fans is amiss. https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=866.0 I'd really like to get some robust air flow; anybody try a small squirrel cage fan? Also, I note some recommend air flow over the condenser lines (those pipes that zig-zag upwards)-meaning fan is installed in the lower vent vs over the cooling fins. Comments?

I sometimes wonder how much air flow is enough during warm weather. Anybody try pushing air up the rear of the fridge with a 'real' ie. household fan? I wonder how long the fridge will last before I get the chance to install a marine compressor unit...LSW willing?! GK




9
Camplite and Bearcat Modifications / Re: Outdoor 12v outlet
« on: June 28, 2018, 02:10:16 PM »
My vote = #4  :D GK

10
Livin Lite General Discussion / Re: Air Conditioner advice
« on: June 27, 2018, 02:29:49 AM »
Two long time camper fixtures seem ripe for retirement. One, as I have just learned in this forum topic, is the traditional AC unit. The other has to be the pathetic absorption refrigerator in favor of efficient/reliable 12V (or dual fuel with AC) compressor models. I look forward to following the path both these improvements take to become mainstream in trailer outfitting. GK

11
Camplite and Bearcat Modifications / Re: Bed overhead fan
« on: June 26, 2018, 11:53:45 AM »
In keeping with the spirit of your suggestion, Gary, I ordered a 12V variable speed controller. The plan is to remove the existing fan knob and wire in the variable speed one. If there's not enough space in the fan housing for, or too much heat produced by the controller's electronics board, I'll move it into the 1" space below the cabinet shelf. Further, my LSW will probably want an on/off toggle for 'her' side of the fan.  https://www.ebay.ca/itm/282229572010

I always look forward to your posts. I wonder if replacing your fridge with a 12V/AC compressor driven unit is on your mod-bucket list? I tried to get that one past my LSW, but the door was slammed tight until it our current one dies. Any ideas on how I can hasten our existing one's demise?! GK

12
Camplite and Bearcat Travel Trailers / Re: wall cabinet attachment
« on: June 26, 2018, 01:44:18 AM »
You'll probably be able to use the cabinet for chin-ups now!

My LSW told me to check the other cabinets, particularly the one over the bed. At least in my rig, the remaining cabinets appear to be sufficiently anchored. GK

13
Camplite and Bearcat Modifications / Re: Bed overhead fan
« on: June 25, 2018, 12:39:38 PM »
What a wonderful idea and install. Since our last hot weather experience in a campsite with no shore power and restricted genny hours, some sort of 12v fan has been moved to the high priority list. I like the OEM appearance. GK

Fan purchase comment for Canadian readers-just purchased same fan from Amazon.ca for $27.99 CAD, much cheaper than .com price. How amazing is that?! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01G8DCWDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

14
GaryM is a shoo-in for getting elected to the 'mod hall of fame' in his first year of eligibility. I'm exhausted just reading about it! GK

15
Camplite and Bearcat Travel Trailers / Re: wall cabinet attachment
« on: June 15, 2018, 12:50:26 PM »
Finnski, I have the same trailer and that cabinet fell off. See my post 'Why the cabinet fell' under the link below. I also referenced a promotional LL youtube video that showcased a 16DB frame. It gives a good idea where there is framing (and where there is not!). Perhaps the best thing I did for cabinet security was to install a wood backing along the roof wall corner. PM me if you need further help. GK

https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=861.0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZtOIbisE4M

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