Aluminum Camper Forum

 Wow it's been a year already. I had the chance to ride up in Canada this past Summer, but it was a 3 day Enduro skills clinic in Ontario. I was hoping to get out to New Brunswick as well, but the timing for work and play wasn't right. So probably next year, I will find a date for a dual sport meetup and make a week long trip out of it while visiting some relatives as well.

I feel bad for my Toy Hauler... I barely used it this year, only 3 outings, plus a canceled one last September. next year I'll be doing a pile of weekend races/Turkey Runs/Adventure rides throguhout the year , and plans are already written.

 I didn't opt for the stereo, speakers, or TV options on my ATC 7X20. But pulling the stereo head unit on yours shouldn't be too difficult. The antenna may be loose into the back of it. Can you see an antenna mounted on the roof? Just start at the head unit first. If you can connect a different antenna wire, and the static remains, then the head unit is likely bad.

Ok then!

I did figure out a good way to introduce bleach water solution into the fresh water tank for sanitizing. I am using a modified instruction from watching someone remove water from an above ground pool cover.

1) My fresh water tank has a low point drain valve and spigot specifically for allowing water out of the tank. Liklely for winter. The spigot is barbed and I think I have discerened why.

2) Fill 2 a gallon pail with bleach and water. (5 gallon won't sit on my fender safely). Place the pail (or gallon jug of bleach) HIGHER than the drain, my fender is suitable for this)

3) Press fit a 3/8 inch vinyl hose to the low point drain barb fitting on the fresh tank.

4) open the valve for the drain and let the water flow from the tube

5)cover the tube end with my thumb, then quickly raise it into the air and send it to the bottom of the bleach pail of water ( I actually just put it directly into a gallon of bleach - 100 gallon fresh tank).

6) watch as the water in the tube now flows BACK down into the fresh tank, siphoning the bleach into the tank as well. It took about 2 minutes.

7) close the drain valve and fill the tank with fresh water from the city supply (this takes awhile). Run the faucets from the fresh tank through all the faucets including the outdoor shower. Both hot and cold sides. Only need to do this once bleach can be smelled coming out of each faucet.

take it for a drive so it sloshes into the top of the fresh tank, sanitizing th entire thing. let it sit overnight.

drain the fresh tank in the morning, open the drain valve.

9) connect to the city supply again, flush the water from all faucets again with clean water, also fillthe fresh tank, then runt he pump from the fresh tank to clear all water lines, also open the hot and cold drains to clear bleach water .

10) drain it again overnight, ready for camping.

 Get rid of the Andersen Hitch, it really isn't suitable for heavy tongues. I found that out too. I paid for a new on before getting my toy hauler thinking it would be great, and I was very disappointed. They work very well for smaller trailers.

CHECK your tire pressures on the trailer and tow vehicle rear, make sure they are max. It makes a difference. Make sure you have proper trailer tow tires ST , NOT light truck LT radials on the trailer, they flex more.

I got a BlueOx with 1000 pound bars, and it works to settle down any side to side motion. Much better than Andersen IMHO.

Get the bars rated about your tongue weight. If your max would be 1100 pounds, get the next bars higher. My tongue weight,  for comparison is anywhere from 550 to 800 pounds loaded. I have 1000 pound bars. I keep thinking it would be good to have 800 pound bars when the tongue is lighter, but that's silly. I'll just live with it. It works.

 ATC is still all aluminum (I think), even the floor. Roof is also aluminum, interior is adzel (azdel?), skin is aluminum, frame etc..

I was in the market for a LivinLite toy hauler early 2017, but the changes (wood floor, epdm roof) and small tanks made me look elsewhere. I paid almost $10K extra for a similar 7X20 from ATC, but at least I THINK it's forever (well, lets call it 10-15 years and see what happens).

Those older LivinLites are going to commend top dollar used. Good news for current owners.

 Contact ATC directly through their website. A dealer will not know, except to ask ATC direct.

BE AWARE, as cool as that patio option is, it takes up space at the rear of the toy hauler inside during travel, and it MUST be taken out of the way each time you want to load/unload using the ramp. The patio roof blocks the loading area.

I was going to get that option, but they did not have them available for the 7X20, only the 8.5 width trailers. After talking to the dealer and a few questions online I decided against it.

Instead I did get the ramp/patio floor cable option and the rear screen door option.

 The bicycle won't be lonely anymore. This is what I bought the toy hauler for.

2017 Beta Xtrainer 300, already modified the suspension to lower it my short inseam.  Not yet ready to ride fast but I am loving it.

Ok I'll check out what can be done.

Hopefully a new  box that can add gravity fill. Otherwise I might have to carry an electric water pump and 5 gallon bucket, fill bucket and pump into fresh tank..Eeesh... I'll find a better way.

I'll have to figure out how to add a gravity fill.

EXACTLY!!! There is no gravity fill. Only the pressured (hose) water inlet!!

I have included pictures of the water supply assembly. There is only my water and winterization ports.

So I had an interesting issue when trying to sanitize the fresh water tank this past August. I found out the water inlet has a small spring loaded back-flow preventer.

I could only use the winterization port for sanitizing the fresh water lines themselves, but not the fresh tank or the pickup line from the tank to the pump. I ended up having to use a drill pump, which took forever to get 5 gallons of bleach and water solution into the fresh tank. The back-flow preventer has a decently strong spring and the small drill pump had no real power to overcome it.

Wondering how I can cheaply get the bleach water solution into the fresh tank this Spring? Drill pump was just to aggravating to use. Thought of one of those siphon pumps, but haven't used one before so I'm not sure if it can develop enough pressure to siphon 5 gallons in to the 100 gallon tank.

The only streaking I've ever had on campers is from the black trim around doors and windows. I don't know why the RV industry doesn't adopt the same materials used on cars, which don't have black streaks. GO figure.

Starting to install a 1/16" thick rubber subfloor in the bathroom. Using a rubber runner that I got at Home Depot. 2 feet by 10 feet.

But I decided I have to remove the toilet to make it much easier to trim the rubber, and also the vinyl floor remnant I purchased. It has cost $40 in materials so far.

Wax the shower??? I think that's a decent idea. Never thought of that.

What about Rain-X on the shower walls (not the floors)? I may try that.

I'll give the exterior a spray wax and rinse treatment before storage. I also use a UV protector on all the plastic hatches and window trim.  No covered storage or camper cover though, just parked in the back yard. No trees though, which is a plus.

 I don't care for cleaning and waxing cars, but I do it once or twice a year to preserve the paint.

I never cleaned the exterior of former campers, and I also had no sheltered storage or covers. If there was bug/tar splat on the nose, I would generally clean that off once or twice a year.

Does anyone get on a ladder and clean the entire exterior, then wax? I know we SHOULD do it but does anyone bother? My toy hauler is super white, I am not sure if general dirt will show very much. But I already see the darn streaks from the plastic/rubber trim pieces. What's up with that? Cars don't have those streaks from their moldings, why do campers do it?