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Messages - MikeT

#1
Awesome, I will dig out the info and give it a shot.  Thanks for the link, I'll let you know how it goes

Cheers
#2
Camplite and Bearcat Travel Trailers / Broken Furnace
January 16, 2025, 01:24:10 AM
Hi All,

On our last trip the furnace "blower motor wheel" broke.  I took the furnace apart to find the wheel had separated  from the shaft of the motor.  Of course the wheel and clamp were all made of plastic!  Before I get into the nitty gritty has anyone experienced the same problem and did you find a replacement part? I have found replacement wheels on a site called 4 seasons (automotive AC fans) but none match the specs exactly so my next step is to make some measurements and see if I can fit one in.  The wheels are around 60.00 whereas a new furnace is >1000.00...Yikes.

Cheers
#3
Wow, where did you get the sink from? I hate my sink and this looks perfect!
#4
Can you tape right over the old (cleaned) caulk?  It looks quite difficult to remove.
#5
I found the breaker you identified at Home Depot.  Unfortunately it is not an FPE StabLok.  I will keep looking.  Interestingly, I noticed that you can buy a 30 amp RV Pedestal that comes with a 30 Amp plug and a 20 Amp duplex plug.  The 30 Amp is not GFCI but the 20 Amp is.  That's not to say that the breaker in the house panel isn't GFCI.  Some of the articles I have read is that 30 AMP GFCI is not necessary but may be coming soon. One of the obstacles is the thousands of campsites that would have to modify their systems to accommodate this change.  My investigation continues!!

Thanks for the info in the Inverters.
#6
Thanks Merlin,

1.  I'll check further into the GFCI rules in Canada.  Prices for a 30 amp GFCI range around $600.00 but I'm still looking.  One of the problems I have is that Federal Pioneer StabLok breakers are becoming obsolete.

2.  In Canada, trench depth is 24 inches from Grade level down to the top of the cable/conduit and then another 3 inches of sand under the cable, so 27 inches.

But, if you are adding mechanical protection by way of concrete or treated lumber (untreated cedar may be okay depending on the province) you can reduce the grade level to cable/conduit to 18 inches + the sand under the cable, so 21 inches.

Both call for 3 inches of sand above the cable but I'm going 6 (I have a lot of sand!).

3.  I saw a ground terminal on my inverter and made me wonder if I needed to ground it when plugging in to the trailer.
#7
Hi All,

I am in the process of running an underground 30 Amp line to my trailer so I can avoid having my power cord run across my driveway. In Canada, we are required to have a GFCI circuit for outdoor 15 amp circuits so it would seem  logical that the same would apply to a 30 amp circuit.  However, when I was researching this on the web, most of the comments said it was not necessary.  I also went to our local library and looked at the electrical code with no luck.  I'm sure the answer was somewhere in the 1000 page document, I just did not have time to find it!
If anyone can shed some light on this it would be appreciated.

On another note, is it necessary to ground a generator?

Cheers

Mike
#8
Thanks for the tips.  Great to know that there is an option of a second border crossing  We will keep that in mind.
#9
Thanks very much for the information, Merlin.  We are heading across Canada from our home in Metro Vancouver and travelling through to Newfoundland.  It will be a somewhat leisurely tour, and we anticipate taking four months before we head back home.  We decided to travel back through the United States, and we will be heading south at Windsor, Ontario towards Chicago. 

My wife is the "travel agent", and gives a big thank you to you for your recommendations.
#10
After our trip across Canada, we are heading south to Chicago and St. Louis, west to Kansas City, then continuing west through to Portland.  We are considering travelling Highways 80 and 84 to Portland.  I would love to hear of any campground recommendations that are on the outskirts of Chicago, St. Louis and Kansas City that are within transit commuting distances.  Also, recommendations for campgrounds along Highways 80 and 84.  The Columbia River Gorge in Oregon is already on our list.

Cheers

Mike
#11
No, there are two pieces of plastic that ar meant to keep that brass part from spinning.  I did fix this by punching out the broken backflow preventer and adding a new one (much better) and a barbed fitting.  It's quite long but it all fits nicely inside the pump closet.  Thanks for responding Merlin.  Here's picture of the final result.
#12
Hi All,

Has anyone replaced the backflow preventor where the fresh water supply hose attaches?  I can't get it apart to install a new one.  I have attached pictures of the front and back of the housing.  Here's the sad part, I did replace this item in 2016 when I pushed the valve (white part in the middle) while the system was under pressure.  I just cant figure it out this time. 

Alternatively, could I purchase an in-line one that might be easier to install?

Cheers

Mike
#13
Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement camera for the Voyager WVOM541AP (wireless)?  I purchased this system back in 2016 but the camera now has moisture in it, sooo all I can see are the drops while travelling.  I have found a few but they are over 400.00!!, more than I paid for the entire unit.

Mike
#14
Well, we think so!  We are leaving Vancouver and heading over to Vancouver Island to Nanaimo.  From there we travel up to Port Hardy and catch a ferry for an 11 hour sail up the inside passage to Prince Rupert. And barring any forest fires, heat domes, flooding its a series of loops through Northern BC, Alaska, Yukon and finally, the Arctic Ocean in the Northwest Territories.  Then wind our way back down to Vancouver.  Looking at about 2-1/2 to 3 months.

Mike
#15
Did you ever come up with a solution?  I too want to take advantage of the space under my 2015 RBS21.  I would like to have my two spares for the TT and an extra spare for the TV.

Cheers

Mike