Aluminum Camper Forum

We have decided to sale our travel trailer which we have thoroughly enjoyed.  My family has decided to buy a motorhome so the trailer and TV are up for sale.  $24,500

Please see the links below for pictures.

2018 Livin Lite Camplite 21BHS Travel Trailer

All aluminum travel trailer in excellent condition.  Structure is all aluminum including the skin and inside cabinets.  This trailer is built to be rot proof with aluminum and composite (azdel) construction.  Only thing made from wood is the kitchen drawers.   Very lightweight at 3600lbs.


https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/rvs/d/carnation-2018-livin-lite-camplite/7059225977.html

Pictures
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoO9LhALQTpIz_cby7pBf0sp2Z2brA?e=brT46r

Aluminum package
3 Fantastic Fan air vents
3 Maxx Air vent covers
Custom cargo carrier
Tongue mounted toolbox
3 bike rack
Upgraded battery charger IOTA DLS 30amp
100ah Renogy AGM battery
External gas line
Power tongue jack
Outdoor shower
Voyager Backup camera - includes monitor for tow vehicle
Will include Anderson Weight distribution hitch
6-Sided Aluminum Superstructure w/ Composite Material throughout (water & mold resistant)
Laminated Floor – 1 7/8" Thick w/Fiberglass, Block Foam & Composite Material (R9 insulation)
Vacuum-Bonded Walls Laminated w/Composite Material 3-Tier Glue Process (stronger & more durable)
Insulated Walls, Roof & Cap
Alpha Superflex® Roof w/12-Year Warranty (more durable, less chalking & streaking)
Bathroom Fantastic Fan and Kitchen exhaust fan (both have vent covers for all season use)
Wide-Track Dexter Leaf Spring Axles w/MORryde® Suspension
Auto-Adjusting Brakes w/EasyLube® Axles
Slideout Topper Awning
Dual-Pane Euro Windows w/Built-In Night Shades/Screens (double-acrylic tinted that open 90 degrees)
26 Gallon Fresh Tank
26 Gallon Grey Tank
32 Gallon Black Tank w/ external Flush
Detachable 30 AMP Marine Grade Power Cord
205/75R14 D rated (8 ply / 65 PSI) Radial Tires
14" High-Polished Aluminum Rims
Gutter w/Downspouts
Gutters above Slideouts
Pre-Wired Solar (10a)
Cable/Satellite Prep
(2) Blue LED Lighted Exterior Speakers
High Efficiency LED Lights
Hot/Cold Exterior Shower
Porcelain Foot Flush Toilet
60x80 Mattress w/ Gas strut supported under bed storage
6 GAL Gas/Electric DSI Water Heater
Dometic 6 Cu/Ft Double Door Fridge (LP/Electric)
Convection Microwave
2 burner flush mount stove w/ glass cooktop cover
All aluminum kitchen cabinets
Full Size 205/75R14 D rated Spare Tire
13.5K BTU Dometic A/C

Attached is a diagram that LifeBlue sent me for how to improve the charging but I don't quite understand it.  Maybe one of you more smarter folks can dumb it down for me.   To me it looks like just adding a simple solenoid and running bigger wire?  Is it really that simple?


Lifeblue also mentioned using a sterling unit in an email they sent me.  Can you send me a link to what exactly you are using ADR?

Quote from: Merlin on August 11, 2019, 03:13:33 PM
Tbrady, Does your Sequoia have a 120V AC outlet?

It doesn't have one...

Thanks for the info David!  We typically use anywhere from 15-25 amps in a day.  We usually run the radio all night to play ocean wave sounds (kids and wife need the white noise) and sometimes we'll run one of the fans all night as well. 

I don't pay near as much attention to usage as I used to.  The best part is my wife can basically do what she wants without trying to be conservative.  We even turn on the awning lights all the time which we never used to do.

Just wanted to give a long term update on this mod...  This has been the best thing we have done to the trailer by far.  99% of our camping is without hookups and with the new battery my wife can run all the lights, radio, stove fan etc pretty much all she wants.  We usually can go about 3 days before I need to fire the generator up.  If I wait until the battery is below 50% SOC the voltage drops enough that it will charge in bulk mode which is right at 30 amps an hour.  So basically I only need to run the genny around 2hrs every 3 days which is great.

The one issue I need to address is how to charge this battery with the tow vehicle.  Currently it will only charge the battery at about 1 amp/hr (at best). 

Man, those look good!  I like how he used C-channel (I think) instead of just flat bar stock.

Getting ready for our first trip of the year and while inspecting the underside I found that 2 of the freshwater holding tank straps were broken at the welds.  I took them off and took them to a welder and he said it just looks like a crappy welding job to begin with.  He highly recommended I buy some steel of similar size (2" wide, 3/16 thick) and replace all the straps.  He has the stuff to help me get the proper bends and thought that would hold up much better over the long term.  We did go ahead and weld the current straps back together and added some additional aluminum angle for more support.  This is just to get me through this trip though...

The other thing I would like to do differently is attach the straps to the vertical side of the aluminum cross member instead of screwing them in to the bottom of it like it is currently.

Has anyone had to deal with this?  Any input is greatly appreciated!

thanks
tim

I think you may have hit on the issue David...  I have a lithium iron battery now and the voltage doesn't drop until there is a significant drop in state of charge.  I can't find the chart right now but basically until the battery is something like 70% depleted you do not see much voltage drop.

I've noticed that my TV is barely charging our battery when traveling.  My battery monitor is showing less than 1ah going in to the battery when I hook it up...

I expected this to be a lot higher.  Has anyone measured this on their vehicle?

Hey Gary,

In hindsight I probably should have started this thread under travel trailer mods!   Regarding the freezing temps... that was definitely a concern and one of the reasons I put the battery in the compartment with hot water heater.   I figure during the coldest of days if we keep the hot water heater on it will keep that compartment above freezing.  Also, the BMS on the battery will protect it from charging if the battery is below 32 (which is really the only concern).  The app on my phone shows me the battery temp as well.

Here is the HDPE I got-
https://www.amazon.com/Seaboard-Density-Polyethylene-Finish-Length/dp/B00K2QT4P4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1530156250&sr=8-3&keywords=hdpe+sheet+1%2F4


Here is the cabinet fan etc-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BEX52Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I only ended up using one of the fans as an exhaust to the bathroom.  I was thinking that if it was still getting too hot I would use the 2nd fan to blow air in to the compartment.  I just cut the black dual shroud thing in half.

Also, seeing how we are so close if you ever get serious about doing this I can show you exactly what I did in person. 

Mine does have the 2-way fridge and I did the mod to disable the frame heater.  I haven't tried measuring whether anything else on it is drawing.

#3 or #4, what is that thing above #2?

Which power center do you have?  First guess is that the fuse could be related to the converter supplying power to the DC panel and it started drawing from the battery supply instead? 

That looks great..  another item to add my list.

Where did you get that box?  Honestly, if I found a box like that I would probably have just mounted it instead of going the route I did...