Aluminum Camper Forum

Having not looked at the AC Forum since '22, it's good to notice it's still carrying on. Our 2014 14DB is seemingly on track to become a generational trailer, just like Scott T envisioned. New roof leak this year and somehow a kicked up rock? cracked a hole in the fresh water tank on our last outing. A local plastics shop may just be able to patch it. All the mods in my posts have endured nicely. The best still is the front window install. Certainly upcoming is conversion to Lithium and a 12v only fridge once the OEM dies. Oh yes, the canopy is in desperate need of replacement (mold stained) and it's time to 'Lagun'ize our unstable tables atop adapted computer arms. Greetings to all. GK

So I finally got around to repacking my bearings and ordered seals based on the 2 3000#/1.5" brake pad Dexter axles supposedly on the 14DB. (Yes, I ordered without taking off the tires/drums first.) Well the seals were too small. The brake pads are 2.25" wide and according to all info Dexter, only found on 3.5K/4.4K axles.

So do I have heavier duty drums mated to 3K axles? Or, have 3.5K axles been re-labelled as 3K on my CL? Just wondering what this axle anomaly is all about. Ideas? GK

Very nice idea and build. You have almost convinced me to tackle uncomplicated aluminum welding. GK

RV Squirrel, I'd say the radius front window installation eeks out the kitchen remodel as the most impactful and enjoyable change to our LL. In answer to your questions. Zero leaks and zero carnage. The window is tinted and the shade/screen mechanism is a smooth pull up/down slide in the curved track. The window is from the same european manufacturer of our LL windows. The window is the same size as in the front curve of the Little guy Mini https://golittleguy.com/lg-mini/ and apparently is custom sized and curved their specs, meaning they have proprietary rights to this window. If interested, contact their parts guy and see if they would part with one. The radius curve of the LL is a little less than the Little guy, but the generous rubber weather stripping absorbs the difference no problem. If needed, I still have lots of the rubber molding/window jamb and plastic spacer insert left over. Free to anyone who needs some apart from shipping which unfortunately would be from Canada. Best wishes. I am available for PMs or even phone calls if deciding to go ahead with this exceptional improvement to the our beloved LL's. GK

Looking forward to seeing pics of your mod. Who knows, I may do the same some day. 2 FWIWs...I installed a quartz countertop and was concerned about the extra weight concentrated on that side of the TT. It mattered not one whit. #2...after dissing solar as not worth the investment in cooler, cloudy climates, I recently purchased a 100W Renogy Solar suitcase. Hoping its not a slippery slope towards more solar purchases! GK

RVSQ, here is a frame view from an early 16' CL vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZtOIbisE4M It's not a structural component in the 14's either. It is as you say, and needs 'beefing' up for batteries. I'm a wood guy, not a metal guy, so if I was doing this mod, I would use 1/2" baltic birch and construct a platform that rests on the wheel well (raising the height available by only...1/2" and also making possible a larger platform than the dimensions of the wheel well surface). Support the platform medially with another piece of birch down to the floor. Then against the wall, secure the platform to any tube stock there with a plywood ledger strip, or use a piece of at least 1x1 aluminum angle screwed to the tube stock for the ply to rest on (my choice) or a series of corner braces that do the same thing as the alum angle. The nice thing about ply is that it's an easy surface to secure your batteries. Finally, I use a construction adhesive (PL Premium) when screwing 'structural' items to trailer surfaces.

Your idea is very innovative. Best wishes. PM me if more detail is needed for 'ply' idea. GK

I just had to 'chyme' in. In the frozen north (now sizzling for the time being), in our subdivision, all houses have access ports to the sewer in the driveway thus institutionalizing the gopher hole trick...

I, too, have found even with the Tornado rotary rinser installed, it takes some minutes to clear tp etc from the tank. Perhaps an additional tip to Merlin's sage advice, I raise the door side of the trailer with my andersen levellers, but not a lot, just to give more slope for tank discharge. GK

Hi PH, didn't know you were a fellow Canuck from Western Canada. We reside in the N Okanagan Valley, T peaked at 112 F (44 C) for a few days last week. (For US readers, AC in homes is not ubiquitous, even in newly built ones. For locals who have AC equipped TTs, there are numerous reports of living in them last week!) Maybe this hottest ever T will be one of those where were you when memories...

As I have reported, my CL had a leak, probably from purchase in late 2013, due to incorrectly sized roof plumbing vent covers (grrr QC Scott T!). However, damage wise to interior = nil, of course!
Best wishes. GK

After filling the larger gaps there's still a tendency over time, weather, heat and surface movement for cracks to appear in the caulk. Taking a page out of why drywall seams are taped, I now embed fiberglass drywall tape or even fiberglass cloth in whatever crack sealer is being used. GK

For your very concerns is why I'll do anything to avoid reinstalling my spare underneath whilst on the road. Better yet, kindly ask the tire tech to put the spare back after fixing the flat . GK

Agree with WOW. Great idea with the aluminum tape. GK

Paul, I apologize for somewhat hijacking your thread with my questions. On the other hand, I think the answers have been very clear and informative for all. As for the shunt, I had a hunch the low A rating would come back to haunt future electrical plans. And the 500A shunt was just a few dollars more. Called penny foolish? Not all my decisions have been that way; after all, in 2014 I did spend about 7K more for my beloved and 'generational' CL. GK

DavidM, thanks to forum, I rewired the mains with #6 or #4. I found it very difficult to squeeze the gauge into the converter's terminals. Attached is a pic of my 50A shunt. I've discovered it's no longer manufactured and a 100A shunt is the lowest sold.

Another question therefore regarding an inverter (1000W). May I ground the inverter to chassis or must I run back to the negative. And if so, before or after the shunt??

Thanks again, GK

Thanks for your mentorship DavidM! Clarification (I think) it's a 50A shunt on the negative side.

Also can you explain to me (again??) why I put a 60A fuse off my positive?

I'm thinking of a 1000W inverter; plenty to run a blender or those projectors my grandchildren now have. Have you noticed the prices for true sine wave inverters have plummeted? Hence my interest in the install. (Just installed a 1000W in my son's tent trailer--3 teen grandchildren, 10 phones or gadgets, everyone clamoring for charging ports...made sure to use #4 wire.) GK

Okeydokey. My converter is a Progressive Dynamics 4045KV, an older model for sure. The 45 refers to 45 Amps. But what does 45A refer to since, the 110V side is rated for 30A AC and "the DC section has 12 branch fuse holders, two wired to accommodate 30 Amp fuses, ten more with a maximum rating up to 20 Amps each". Aaaah! Exactly what is being protected by those 2 30A fuses? All the other 12V branches? (Since they do insert at a separate location in the DC section.)

While I'm at it, probably one of this forum's vaunted gurus can answer this question. Up to what size inverter can I install given the following: I have 2 6V Trojans, a 60A fuse off the positive terminal (not sure now why I did that), a 50A shunt off the negative for my battery monitor (again, not sure why I went with such a low amperage)? Please and thankyou! GK