Aluminum Camper Forum

Does anyone have the manual or info on the wall mounted AC units? Can't get to the model number and all I have to go on is that it's a Frigidaire.

Really like it. Will be buying the next time I'm around a HFT.

Quote from: DavidM on July 29, 2021, 12:32:38 PM
I still don't see why a horizontal bolt through the coupler and aluminum frame won't do the trick.

David

Unsure what the inside of this A frame looks like. The one on my 2013 16DB does not have any room to put horizontal bolts through the coupler. Been reviewing mine after trips because I am using the Anderson hitch with it.

Quote from: tbwrench on July 29, 2018, 10:00:01 PM
Not sure how well it would work, but I did find this on the web. https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-159056-Spare-Tire-Winch/dp/B00JMHFK4S

The problem with the spare tire winch is that where the current mount is located, you would end up running into the trailer boxed frame where you need to connect to the winch in order to lower the tire. If you tried mounting it lower, the tire will just become the first thing to hit the ground while traveling.

Quote from: Merlin on June 28, 2021, 07:55:06 PM
Wow, THAT should help a lot.

So far the outside compartment temp has been 15-20 degrees cooler, even with all the hot and humid temps through Michigan. That compartment drop has resulted in the fridge temp being a couple degrees cooler.

Inside fans are getting installed today and expecting that to drop the temp a good amount.

I'm currently modding my fridge. Spent $80 and the mod consists of:

4x Coolerguys 80mm x 25mm IP67 rated fans
2x Coolerguys 80mm x 15mm standard fans
4x 3 PIN Y Splitters
2x 3 PIN to Bare Wires

The 80mm x 25mm fans fit pretty much perfect between the cover outlet and lines up with the position on my condenser fin. They are secured with zip ties at the bottom and a thin bead of caulk at the top. To increase forcing air out the vent and not having it deflect back into the fridge compartment I used foil tape. The tape also helps securing the top of the fans on top of the caulk.

The 80mm x 15mm fans I mounted alligator clips to them in order to clip them to the interior cooling fins to circulate air.

I plugged into the circuit board to 12V pin that was not being used labled (lamp/heater) and is only active when the fridge is turned on. This way the fans are on when the fridge is turned on. I do not boondock so IMO to reduce the stress on the fridge's cooling system it was not worth the money or stress on the fridge components to not keep these fans running all the time to help fridge temps and circulate air.

Quote from: Merlin on May 22, 2021, 08:20:07 PM
Edit: I should add I'm not a fan of the Dexter single point bearing lube system. It's very easy for even an experienced mechanic to add too much and blow the seal. I use Valvoline Synthetic chassis/bearing grease and now pop the hubs off for a repack.

I second Merlin and not a fan of the dexter single point bearing lube system for the seal blow out reasons. I pull the drums one side at a time (tandem axle), use an ultrasonic cleaner for the bearings, and then repack with Valvoline Synpower (Synthetic) Grease.

I used to use Mobil 1 synthetic grease, but it seemed to separate like crazy just sitting in the garage.

I installed a Honeywell th1100dv1000 (heat only) thermostat. Last week was the first week I used it while in the camper. Was getting down to 60 every night and left it at 65. Woke up every morning without issue. Even before the trip I let it run overnight in michigan when it was getting down in the 40s for a couple nights with no issues.

I will say that my heater turns on with the first ignition without hesitation though.

Merlin it sounds like a lot of things changed between 2013 and 2015, or maybe its just the DB vs TBS differences. My 2013 16DB only has 2 speakers at the front of the trailer over the dinette. The radio is almost useless, very poor audio even with local stations. Radio has no bluetooth for phone audio or audio line to the TV, so opted for a portable bluetooth speaker to cover the trailers audio system shortcomings and be able to move it by the campfire. I may relocate the stereo and do upgrades in the future, but the 2 speaker system is a real turnoff.

Quote from: stu1965 on April 02, 2021, 04:17:14 PM
from a 2013 16dbs... part # STP2-24-09H
Here's the facebook post from that livin lite group - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1792376977656909/permalink/3013116462249615

Hey, my install is getting some attention

The difference it night and day for the stability of those Mor-Ryde steps!

Glad you got it home safely!

I think this is a warning to anyone looking at purchasing or has any type of camper. I just pulled my bearings to clean/inspect/repack and check the brake condition over the weekend since I bought this camper used last fall. I found out several interesting things when comparing all numbers on the trailer frame, to the axles installed, to the brakes.

1) My 2013 16DB says 5k lb max GVWR. 2500 lb per axle.

2) My factory axles still with the livin lite / dexter stickers with correct build date indicate I have 3k lb alxes.

3) At some point the brakes were replaced and upgraded from 3k lb brakes (10" x 1 3/4") to 3500 lb axle brakes (10" x 2 1/4") and drums to accommodate the wider shoe. Whether it was intentional or the place it was serviced only stocked the more common 3500 lb components, not sure. All components are the same (bearings, seals, magnets, etc.), except for the wider shoes and drum.

Just found a lot more interesting things that I was expecting while doing a deep dive. These are used campers at this point and parts have been changed, so be aware of what you have and should have and what has been done to your specific unit.

I just got here a couple months ago with my 16DB and won't be leaving anytime soon. Been tackling a lot of MODs and life improvements on the trailer.

Curious from members that have done the install of an Andersen WDH. My Camplite 16DB has the 2x3 frame and the concern I have is going to the 75 ftlb torque Andersen wants on the brackets. They stress to be careful to not crush the frame as depending on frame strength, this could happen.

Just curious what owners have torqued their brackets to that have the 2x3 frame. I torqued to 60 ftlb on my initial setup and since it is Saturday, Andersen isn't open to call. Will call Monday to see what their suggestions are. I have the raised brackets so I also have 4 set screws total. With all the weight on the truck the brackets didn't shift, but opting to wait to test drive it until I hear back from personal experience and also Andersen.

Thanks.

Quote from: Merlin on March 06, 2017, 09:10:14 PM
The OEM rear bumper on my '15 16TBS is 0.125 2X4. I was told that this is the stuff to use for reinforcement of the rear bumper, in the 0.125", 2"X4"X60" version. I have NOT confirmed that with the place the will do the welding for me, but I have no reason to suspect it's not correct. At $60, however, I will confirm with them before I order it next month. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H9L68Y/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Did you ever make this modification to your trailer? I'm in Michigan and just bought a '13 16DB 3 weeks ago. Contemplating on doing this mod. Instead of mounting a receiver and bike rack, I might mount a small poly box to put water hoses and things in their. Weight of the box is 16lbs and would only be putting 20lbs into the box. So way less than a bike rack, and won't be hanging off and bouncing like a bike rack.

This is an amazing kitchen makeover! Have gotten a lot of inspiration from this and glad you shared this.

Just bought my 2013 16DB. I notice your cabinets are deeper than mine, which is unfortunate for me. Not sure if that is a model difference or year difference. Mine are only about 19", which is disappointing because the fridge that is right next to the counter sticks out further. I feel they could have done a 21" deep cabinet with counter top overhang and made it even with the fridge and provided more storage. Not to mention trying to find wire pull out shelves for 18" deep cabinets is slim pickings.