2013 21bhs
Air conditioner freezes up on inside total ice. We were in FL on vacation very hot. We had gone to the beach and when we returned no air and frozen over. Any thoughts on what we need to do? I want it cold no matter where we are. We took the top off and used a vac to make sure there was nothing to keep air flow from occuring.Made sure all coils were not bent or damaged. Looks good but freezing up still except at night when the sun is gone there are no issues with it. Just during direct sunlight hours.
Thanks
That's a common symptom of being slightly low on freon. Get a little added and it should be fine.
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Also a symptom of a dirty evaporator coil.
The filters on these units are not very efficient.
Both of the above options are correct. Clean the coils and see if that helps. Unfortunately, these air conditioners do not have valves on them so adding freon is not an option. Some places will add the port to them, but the tubing is so thin it can be difficult. They've basically become throw away units which is a shame.
If by "top" you mean the outside, that was a good idea, but the most important place to clean is inside. Take the inside cover off, Replce the filters in the intake, make sure the flexible duct that connects the inside fan output to the vents is intact, and always run the fan on high when in high humidity. Those are the easy things! RV air conditioners don't have access taps for the refrigerant, so it's difficult and expensive to even check the charge, let alone recharge. And, if it's low there is a leak that can also be difficulty and expensive to fix. It does happen and at least one person on the forum had an A/C unit replaced under warranty due to a crimped tube causing a leak. It's also possible the thermostat has failed so the compressor doesn't cycle off correctly, but if the unit operates ok at night that's propably not it. A clean A/C unit should not freeze up with the fan on high. I see your camper is 5 years old so you may want to check into getting the A/C replaced if cleaning doesn't fix it.
Thanks everyone!
Ours has had problems freezing up from the very beginning (right from the factory). Doesn't happen all the time but I think the amount of humidity in the air has something to do with it as well (doesn't seem to freeze up as much in the more humid conditions). I think it just might be one of those things that you have to put up with with these types of AC's. But running it on high seems to help and setting the thermostat back a little so that the compressor cycles on & off periodically helps as well.
The evaporator coil of a propery charged A/C unit should be slightly above freezing temperature to prevent this problem. If it is slightly low on freon, it will actually be below freezing. Blowing more air through the coil can blow the condensation water away before it freezes, and cycling the compressor will create a defrost cycle. Either could conceal the real problem of inadequate freon in the system.
Since freon can not be consumed, the only ways to have inadequate freon is that it was never properly filled or it has a leak.
It's very unfortunate that there are no service ports on the unit.
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I had a problem with the 13500 btu AC in our 14DBS.
The unit was so over sized that it would not run long enough to dehumidify the air.
This left us sitting in a cold and clammy environment.
My solution was to replace the rooftop unit with a Mini Split system.
This turned out to be the best decision ever.
The Mini Split uses inverter technology and runs only at the speed required to achieve the thermostat set point.
Starting current for this unit is 400 watts!
Includes a setting for dehumidifying as well as the unit being a heat pump.
JMHO.
Quote from: Diversteve on June 21, 2018, 08:29:45 AM
I had a problem with the 13500 btu AC in our 14DBS.
The unit was so over sized that it would not run long enough to dehumidify the air.
This left us sitting in a cold and clammy environment.
My solution was to replace the rooftop unit with a Mini Split system.
This turned out to be the best decision ever.
The Mini Split uses inverter technology and runs only at the speed required to achieve the thermostat set point.
Starting current for this unit is 400 watts!
Includes a setting for dehumidifying as well as the unit being a heat pump.
JMHO.
I'd be curious to see pictures of that mini split!
Had never heard of a mini split, but after 30 seconds of googling it seems they have potential in RVs. I think @Gary M (https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?action=profile;u=663) should definitely take on this challenge. ;)
Quote from: nhlakes on June 21, 2018, 10:36:28 AM
Had never heard of a mini split, but after 30 seconds of googling it seems they have potential in RVs. I think @Gary M (https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?action=profile;u=663) should definitely take on this challenge. ;)
I think Gary M still has enough to do for this year ;D
I still have 43 items left on my "Camplite" reminder list on my iPhone filled with mods I plan on doing, and parts to order. I'm thinking indoor and exterior speaker upgrades are probably next. Heated/massaging theater seats after that :)
Quote from: Diversteve on June 21, 2018, 08:29:45 AM
I had a problem with the 13500 btu AC in our 14DBS.
The unit was so over sized that it would not run long enough to dehumidify the air.
This left us sitting in a cold and clammy environment.
My solution was to replace the rooftop unit with a Mini Split system.
This turned out to be the best decision ever.
The Mini Split uses inverter technology and runs only at the speed required to achieve the thermostat set point.
Starting current for this unit is 400 watts!
Includes a setting for dehumidifying as well as the unit being a heat pump.
JMHO.
Have you posted the details somewhere yet? I'd be very interested in what you have and in the install.
This is the unit I bought.
The installation was not difficult.
Everything needed was included with the exception of a wall mount that I built with aluminum angle and rivets from Home Depot
https://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-Air-Conditioner-Inverter-Ductless/dp/B01DVW6G42/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1529760071&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=Pioneer+Ductless+Wall+Mount+Mini+Split+INVERTER+Air+Conditioner+with+Heat+Pump%2C+12000+BTU+%281+Ton%29%2C+15+SEER%2C+110~120+VAC%2C+Full
That iis an interesting instalation. With a high efficiency minisplit (and some use inverter technology), it should start easily with most portable generators.
David
And did I mention quiet? This unit is so quiet i thought it was not working!
I was able to sell my old rooftop unit for $400.00 so the total price was very reasonable.
We are starting our third year of camping and still are impressed with the setup.
The heat pump is amazing, warms the little trailer very quickly.
i expect to hear of more installations like this or at least a rooftop unit with the inverter tech.
That is really cool! I have the same kind of minisplit heat pump at my home. I have 3 of them they work really well. Interesting to see them on a trailer!
did you patch the roof with aluminum or create a big skylight?
The opening is the standard roof opening for an RV.
i installed a new vent.
Wow, just what I will be looking for when it comes times to replace the noisy, inefficient Coleman Mach 8 AC (hopefully sooner rather than later). Thanks for the inspiration 8)
Neat. I would love to replace my loud AC too.
Two long time camper fixtures seem ripe for retirement. One, as I have just learned in this forum topic, is the traditional AC unit. The other has to be the pathetic absorption refrigerator in favor of efficient/reliable 12V (or dual fuel with AC) compressor models. I look forward to following the path both these improvements take to become mainstream in trailer outfitting. GK
Quote from: GrampaKilt on June 27, 2018, 02:29:49 AM
Two long time camper fixtures seem ripe for retirement. One, as I have just learned in this forum topic, is the traditional AC unit. The other has to be the pathetic absorption refrigerator in favor of efficient/reliable 12V (or dual fuel with AC) compressor models. I look forward to following the path both these improvements take to become mainstream in trailer outfitting. GK
Another is radiant floor heating from companies like Alde which combines the water heater and heat system. Uses much less energy. This seems like it has great potential from what I have heard so far. Great for those of us who camp in cold weather - especially with alum floors!
Quote from: GrampaKilt on June 27, 2018, 02:29:49 AM
Two long time camper fixtures seem ripe for retirement. One, as I have just learned in this forum topic, is the traditional AC unit. The other has to be the pathetic absorption refrigerator in favor of efficient/reliable 12V (or dual fuel with AC) compressor models. I look forward to following the path both these improvements take to become mainstream in trailer outfitting. GK
I dont think that 12v inverter/compressor refrigeration will soon become mainstream like it has for boats. For most boats, absorption wont work because of heeling. Absorption requires a fairly level system.
An efficient, well insulated 12v system requires at least 50 amp hours daily to run and often more. That much current will draw down my single Group 24 battery below 50% in about 16 hours where normally it lasts for 3 days.
Yes, absorption requires lots of heat but on propane i can go more than 30 days on one tank and plugged into ac at the rv park, it will go forever. It would take a ton of batteries to last that long or a couple hundred watts of solar pnels sitting in the sun, something i have never done.
So i believe absorption will be the standard refrigeration for rvs for along, long time.
David
While camping at Inks Lake State Park here in Texas last year, I saw this same unit on a Airstream RV. The owner said the installation was quite easy.
Quote from: DavidM on June 27, 2018, 10:34:48 AM
Quote from: GrampaKilt on June 27, 2018, 02:29:49 AM
Two long time camper fixtures seem ripe for retirement. One, as I have just learned in this forum topic, is the traditional AC unit. The other has to be the pathetic absorption refrigerator in favor of efficient/reliable 12V (or dual fuel with AC) compressor models. I look forward to following the path both these improvements take to become mainstream in trailer outfitting. GK
I dont think that 12v inverter/compressor refrigeration will soon become mainstream like it has for boats. For most boats, absorption wont work because of heeling. Absorption requires a fairly level system.
An efficient, well insulated 12v system requires at least 50 amp hours daily to run and often more. That much current will draw down my single Group 24 battery below 50% in about 16 hours where normally it lasts for 3 days.
Yes, absorption requires lots of heat but on propane i can go more than 30 days on one tank and plugged into ac at the rv park, it will go forever. It would take a ton of batteries to last that long or a couple hundred watts of solar pnels sitting in the sun, something i have never done.
So i believe absorption will be the standard refrigeration for rvs for along, long time.
David
A couple of years ago I recall seeing an announcement of a new RV fridge that was both absorption AND 12V compressor. That seemed like a great idea- use the 12v when it is plentiful or needed for extra cooling and the LP when 12V is an issue.
Wonder what happened to it? Will have to dig. I'm also curious about the helium fridges out now too.
Quote from: ADR on June 27, 2018, 08:04:37 PM
A couple of years ago I recall seeing an announcement of a new RV fridge that was both absorption AND 12V compressor. That seemed like a great idea- use the 12v when it is plentiful or needed for extra cooling and the LP when 12V is an issue.
Wonder what happened to it? Will have to dig. I'm also curious about the helium fridges out now too.
Probably prohibitively expensive. That would be two completely separate refrigeration systems in one box.
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Here is one example of the dual cooling source fridge>
https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/food-and-beverage/mobile-refrigeration/rv-boat-and-truck-refrigerators/dometic-super-hybrid-_-31009
Quote from: ADR on July 12, 2018, 08:25:50 PM
Here is one example of the dual cooling source fridge>
https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/products/food-and-beverage/mobile-refrigeration/rv-boat-and-truck-refrigerators/dometic-super-hybrid-_-31009
But......almost $2800 including shipping. An interesting idea, however.
Its high alright. Maybe the price will come down if they become popular.
I love my 12V compressor ARB chest I keep in the van.
I also have a 12V compressor NovaKool in my truck camper.
No doubt LP is more efficient if one is stopped overnight in a camp spot.
But - I especially like the compressor type for traveling- it's nice to stop without worrying about the fridge being off level and damaging it.
Thanks DIversteve.
This is what I was just looking into. We just bought a used 2014 14db and though we love it so far I don't like the rooftop AC. It is too loud, hangs down too low(I am 6ft 2) and sticks up too far on the roof.
I a researching alternatives and yours is definitely on my list. Just replaced the center single sped vent fan with a MAxxair 6200k 10 speed ,reversible and so much quieter
Has anyone modified the 2 AC filters at all? Like adding a thin additional filter on those or adding a filter elsewhere in the unit?
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Quote from: dlb53151 on July 16, 2020, 02:15:48 PM
Has anyone modified the 2 AC filters at all? Like adding a thin additional filter on those or adding a filter elsewhere in the unit?
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For sure. The OEM filters don't keep out anything but low flying birds. Something like this works much better and the white color helps with encouraging replacement. Just cut to fit.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-Safe-Economy-Plus-Air-Conditioner-Filter-AC-302/100376401
Do you cut and tape those onto the existing "filters"?
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No. No double filters. Restricting the air flow too much will lead to icing. A simple white spun filter about 1/4 inch thick will work fine to keep things clean.
So you just kind of slide those into the slots that house the regular "filters"? Do they bunch up at all when you do that?
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Quote from: dlb53151 on July 18, 2020, 02:58:20 PM
So you just kind of slide those into the slots that house the regular "filters"? Do they bunch up at all when you do that?
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Hmm, you must have a different A/C unit. On mine, there are 2 removable panels (with lots of square hole) that hold 2 filters on the L/R bottom of the unit facing down. Removing those panels is how you clean the OEM filters and how you replace them with something better. If yours has slots for the filters, then perhaps replacements won't work anyway!
We ised to have the same problem! AC guy said turn it off every 2 or 3 hours for 15 minutes. haven't had a priblem since!