Considering adding solar to my 21RBS. Had one small panel years ago on my A-liner.
For those of you that pay more attention than I have to solar setups in recent years, what's the biggest bang for the buck these days. I have a couple of costco 6 volt gc batteries.
Project is more for fun than need, which is why I'm looking for the best price point. I have a pair of Hondas if/when needed, but prefer not to use them unless necessary. I'm also on the east coast, so not in the wide open space out west where solar is much better. Often under trees.
Probably go fixed mount - even though I know a moveable panel would allow me to chase the sun. This way I can just leave it on while in parked and it will keep the batteries charged.
PWM vs MPPT controller? MPPT is more expensive but better. Again, best bang for the buck?
Renogy still one of the go to brands?
I do like the Renogy brand. They sell more and more sophisticated electronics as well as basic solar panels for the RV and boating market. But I really like the Victron MPPT controllers.
If you camp in the shade often, do consider portable flexible panels. A single 160 watt Renogy costs only a few hundred $ and it weighs less than 10 lbs.
Use it with a 50' cable so you can move the panels around.
I wrote an article on solar for the Newsletter a while back. Merlin has a portable system that serves him well.
David
Solar panels are VERY much affected by shade. I strongly echo what David wrote and think that a portable panel is the way to go. If I was to do it over again, I would do the same thing I did before. 100 watt Renogy portable flexible panel (not the heavy suitcase style) running through 40' of wire to an MPPT controller in my battery box and then through a circuit breaker to the batteries. Victron equipment is top-shelf stuff, but I used a Morningstar controller because I had one from another project I could use. Even if the project is for fun (most are!), you'll have more fun (read satisfaction) with a portable panel and with an MPPT controller.
This is a huge growth area right now in RVs. Everybody is doing solar, both RV owners and aftermarket manufacturers. All the big names like Xantrex and Renogy, etc. are producing panels and systems for RVs. I'm a big advocate of KISS (keep it simple stupid) but quality equipment is worth it even in a simple system. Just watch the cost because there are too many folks out there willing to pay silly high per watt prices for solar (Zamp for example). For flexible panels, I would not pay much more than $1.50 or so per watt (maybe up to $1.75). Another thing to consider is to purchase a charge controller with adjustable output and/or presets for both the batteries you have now and LiFePO4 batteries. When you get ready to replace those GC2 6V some day, it's very likely you'll want lithium. Almost all Victron MPPT controllers can be preset for a variety of battery types.
Keep us posted on the solar adventure. It's fun to see what others come up with.
Thanks for the replies.
Priority is: 1. Interesting Project, 2. Charge in driveway, 3. Charge at campsite.
I totally get that portable will help me charge much better while camping, but I don't want to leave a portable setup out in my driveway all year (where the camper is parked 95% of the time).
I'm leaning toward installing a panel or 2 on the roof and then later add a portable when needed.
I'm a fan of Victron as well. I have a Victron BMV 712(think that is the model #) with blue tooth dongle already installed. I'd plan to look into seeing if using a Victron controller with the BMV would provide me with any additional functionality. But Victron stuff is on the pricey side.
I do recall Dave's write up and did read it when written. Thanks for the reminder, I'll give it another peak to refresh my memory.
My brother in law and his wife boondock all winter on BLM land AZ in their 5th wheel. He has 8 180 watt manually tilt-able panels and 6 battleborns, controllers, inverter, all professionally installed. What a setup.
(https://lobstersontheloose.com/v1/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/MG_5138.jpg)
You guys are risking making my project too easy. I just looked at the Renogy flexible panels and it appears I could probably just velcro (hd) them in place while the rig is parked in my driveway and they would probably stay put, not be too obtrusive, and not say say 'come steal me'. hmmmm
Quote from: nhlakes on October 17, 2020, 08:34:12 AM
You guys are risking making my project too easy. I just looked at the Renogy flexible panels and it appears I could probably just velcro (hd) them in place while the rig is parked in my driveway and they would probably stay put, not be too obtrusive, and not say say 'come steal me'. hmmmm
If the panels can be easily removed if velcroed on top of your camper, then disconnects like the SAE (ZAMP) or the MC4 connectors and then use a long cable to place them in the sun when necessary. But for velcro to work you would have to have a tight leading edge to keep the wind from working under it and blowing it off.
David
Understood, but in case it was not clear, the (industrial type) velcro (plastic/plastic) would just be used while parked.
Still toying with 100wts installed up top and then another 100wts flexible for when I'm really trying charge.
For those that have installed up top, would love to know how you ran the wires.
Or get one of these and use your velcro idea for stationary use and also be able to move it around when camping. :)
This would need at least a 15A charge controller.
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-175-Watt-Volt-Monocrystalline/dp/B082FCZ4MD/ref=sr_1_3?crid=33P0L75HOYZ55&dchild=1&keywords=renogy+175w+flexible+solar+panel&qid=1602962719&sprefix=renogy+175%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-3
In addition to pricey - it's a big sucker: Dimensions: 59.2 x 26.5 x 0.08 in
Quote from: nhlakes on October 17, 2020, 05:53:26 PM
In addition to pricey - it's a big sucker: Dimensions: 59.2 x 26.5 x 0.08 in
Huge!
Anyway, I found the perfect solar panels. What could go wrong with a name like this? 8)
https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/Merlin_FXT_series_specifications.pdf
Thinking of going with the 100wt Renogy flexible for now and the HQST 20amp waterproof controller and mounting it at the battery box. May lose some efficiency with the larger than necessary controller but want the ability to add another 100wts down the road. (and had to bump to 20amps to get a waterproof controller from a major well-rated brand).
Have not looked into connections/wires yet.
Comments welcome.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMNGVV3
https://www.amazon.com/HQST-Voyager-Waterproof-Postive-Controller/dp/B086KZ3HDX
Also realize that the PWM HQST controller will produce 10-15% less power than a MPPT controller. But the Victron 15/50 MPPT controller which would work for two 100W panels is three times more expensive than the HQST but is not waterproof.
So the HQST is probably a good choice.
David
Ordered the above controller with similar panel from HQST for $30 less. Some say it is the same panel shipped from Renogy with slightly different specs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QV8CDGZ/
Regardless, good enough for my little project. Thanks for the help. Stuff will be here in a couple of days and should install this weekend - and post pics.
Totaled to $213 with cables.
Panel, controller, and cables arrived, but I'm returning the HQST panel.
The box was slightly damaged (some time ago) causing no damage to the panel, but did force the panel to be stored bent in the box. The panel is no where as flexible as I'd imagined, and has semi-permanently taken on the mis-shape of the damaged box. Appears the Renogy panel is MUCH more flexible, so I have ordered that one instead.
Pic that compares flexibility
https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-fhnch/images/stencil/2048x2048/products/1427/18876/_02__10751.1582449084.jpg?c=2
The Renogy is pretty flexible. I store mine flat in the original foam packing (without the box). For me, the flexible panels are nice not just for the flex, but for the very light weight. I'm looking forward to your install reports!
Installed today. The Renogy is much more flexible than the HQST. This is my 'driveway' install. Panel HD velcroed to roof and controller velcroed to battery box.
I'll leave it like this in the driveway. Then store it while traveling and use it where needed at site.
FWIW, here is a pic of the HQST panel mentioned in an earlier post that I am returning. Would not recommend.
Nice, clean and neat installation.
Yes that HQST panel is a POS.
David
Looks good. Your batteries will have a happy life 8)
Anyone give some thought to installing the charge controller, inverter, bus bars, circuit breakers in the mostly empty area in front of the pass through storage compartment?
I've got the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100-Volt 30 Charge Controller an BMV 700 with Bluetooth dongle.
Currently, I use my acopower 120W portable folding panels with 50 ft of cable and the charge controller temporarily stuffed between my 2 6v gc batteries on the tongue in a plastic bag. In the future, I'll add at least 200W of flexible panels on the roof of my 2015 21BHS which should be similar to the 21RBS in terms of the front pass through storage.
(Update: I rotated picture 90 degrees clockwise)
Another picture
That's potentially a good location, as long as it doesn't get too hot. I've often wondered why LL didn't make some use of that space. Remove the Azdel and fill it up!
The second picture looks like the interior of the pass through storage. Where exactly is that first picture?? Can't get my bearings on that one.
If you rotate the picture 90 degrees clockwise (sorry), it's the view from behind the pass through storage light on the front door side of the trailer.
Quote from: tt2retire on November 02, 2020, 08:37:41 PM
If you rotate the picture 90 degrees clockwise (sorry), it's the view from behind the pass through storage light on the front door side of the trailer.
got it - thanks
I use Renogy exclusively on my 16DBS. I have 2 of the 160W flexible panels, Renogy 40Amp/100V solar controller, 2000W Rengoy inverter and 2x 170AH Rengoy Li batteries. I'm going to add 2 more of the 160Amp panels this year coming to the roof of the camper. I would like 6 panels, that's the goal. Have to add, Rengoy support is pretty good.
Had the system a few years now with 0 issues. The flexible panels are very light and easy to deal with, I think Rengoy makes 180Amp flexible panel now. I boondock mostly and never need a gen. I just got back from 2 weeks in Utah and boondocked the whole time and never needed to plugin to shore power to charge the batteries. With 2 panels I have to watch my power usage but I still run my laptop, camera gear, phone, drone batteries, TV, microwave, lights etc. Setting up solar was the best thing I've done and would not camp without it. In fact it's the main reason I purchased my RV.
Quote from: Cajun on November 10, 2020, 10:37:09 AM
I use Renogy exclusively on my 16DBS. I have 2 of the 160W flexible panels, Renogy 40Amp/100V solar controller, 2000W Rengoy inverter and 2x 170AH Rengoy Li batteries. I'm going to add 2 more of the 160Amp panels this year coming to the roof of the camper. I would like 6 panels, that's the goal. Have to add, Rengoy support is pretty good.
Had the system a few years now with 0 issues. The flexible panels are very light and easy to deal with, I think Rengoy makes 180Amp flexible panel now. I boondock mostly and never need a gen. I just got back from 2 weeks in Utah and boondocked the whole time and never needed to plugin to shore power to charge the batteries. With 2 panels I have to watch my power usage but I still run my laptop, camera gear, phone, drone batteries, TV, microwave, lights etc. Setting up solar was the best thing I've done and would not camp without it. In fact it's the main reason I purchased my RV.
Nice set up. Good to hear about Renogy support. I look forward to reading about your additional solar stuff.
My 160W Renogy panels are flexible to some degree. You can bend them but they can break if not careful. I think Renogy makes an 180W flexible panel also.
The flexible panel is working out great, but I have decided I'm going to add a 100wt tiltable panel to the roof. I'll be able to leave it tilted toward the south in the driveway and will not have to wonder about it being covered with snow/ice. I'll still have the flexible panel to move about when I'm really trying to charge while camping.
Any suggestions on securing the panel mounts to the roof and/or running the wire? I may leave the wire running on the outside for now and deal with that in the spring.
Here are the small tilt mounts I'll use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSKFWK7
Note that the mounts are listed for smaller than 100wt panels but appears many people apparently use these for the 100wt panel
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Compact-Design/dp/B07GF5JY35
Since you have the aluminum roof, I would think (but don't know) that it's fine to use the same attachment as everything else on the roof.......SS self tapping screws of appropriate size with #2 square drive heads. The A/C is secured with clamp-bolts, but all the other stuff is screwed.
On the wire ingress, perhaps something like this would be a permanent solution if installed in a puddle of self-leveling caulk. I assume the charge controller will be inside the camper; hence the need to run the wire inside.
https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-Weatherproof-Project-Campervan/dp/B0111RNZDY
Have not actually noticed what stuff is secured with up top. #2 SS self taping square head make sense. I'll check out Amazon. I'd seen those housings. Will check them out. thanks
anyone know if what is typically used is #8 or #10 or ?
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Tapping-Drilling-Bolt-Dropper/dp/B076C4QRLM
Quote from: nhlakes on November 22, 2020, 04:21:17 PM
The flexible panel is working out great, but I have decided I'm going to add a 100wt tiltable panel to the roof. I'll be able to leave it tilted toward the south in the driveway and will not have to wonder about it being covered with snow/ice. I'll still have the flexible panel to move about when I'm really trying to charge while camping.
Any suggestions on securing the panel mounts to the roof and/or running the wire? I may leave the wire running on the outside for now and deal with that in the spring.
Here are the small tilt mounts I'll use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSKFWK7
What would be optimal is if you could fasten into the Cross beams if the spacing is right. Uni-struts would allow you to hit the cross members but it also raises your profile and wind resistance. Those mounts will all the "millions" of holes are nice but (I know this isn't your first rodeo) ;) when you install butyl tape or butyl sealant and fasten the screws through it, reminder to ensure you completely cover all the exposed butyl with another polymer sealant. UV will eat up the butyl through all those those little holes. I work in commercial single ply roofing and we use caulk tubes of butyl sealant.
Note that the mounts are listed for smaller than 100wt panels but appears many people apparently use these for the 100wt panel
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Compact-Design/dp/B07GF5JY35
Quote from: Jonathan on November 22, 2020, 11:17:06 PM
What would be optimal is if you could fasten into the Cross beams if the spacing is right. Uni-struts would allow you to hit the cross members but it also raises your profile and wind resistance. Those mounts will all the "millions" of holes are nice but (I know this isn't your first rodeo) ;) when you install butyl tape or butyl sealant and fasten the screws through it, reminder to ensure you completely cover all the exposed butyl with another polymer sealant. UV will eat up the butyl through all those those little holes. I work in commercial single ply roofing and we use caulk tubes of butyl sealant.
Thanks. Panel placement will be dictated by available real estate, so yes I could install a bottom bracket (what you are calling a uni-lever) to pick up the roof frame cross-members and attach the mount to that. Considered that, but the roof is pretty thick and there is not a lot of force on the mount, so was hoping that would not be necessary.
Would love to hear from others who have screwed into the alum roofs.
Have not thought much or researched sealant yet. Do I need to use butyl in addition to sealant?
Already have some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-10-3-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B000BRF7QE
nhlakes, I've had the A/C off the roof to install a new seal. On my camper the roof is a thick aluminum and in my humble opinion will hold the panel to roof securely if you use several #8 screws on each side like those you linked to. Other things on the roof like the antenna, vents, and skylight are just screwed into the the Al. I like the idea of Jonathon's to seal with butyl tape, but make sure you can get the screws torqued well enough. Cover it all with the Dicor self-leveling caulk you linked to. It's good stuff and has held down my cell booster wiring on the roof really well for a few years and lots of miles.
Important edit: SAFETY NOTE. There is wiring in the roof, both 120VAC and 12VDC !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Edit #2; Use fresh caulk. I learned the hard way that even unopened caulk I had sitting around for contingencies wasn't up to the task after a couple of years. Oops.
Quote from: nhlakes on November 23, 2020, 07:49:50 AM
Quote from: Jonathan on November 22, 2020, 11:17:06 PM
What would be optimal is if you could fasten into the Cross beams if the spacing is right. Uni-struts would allow you to hit the cross members but it also raises your profile and wind resistance. Those mounts will all the "millions" of holes are nice but (I know this isn't your first rodeo) ;) when you install butyl tape or butyl sealant and fasten the screws through it, reminder to ensure you completely cover all the exposed butyl with another polymer sealant. UV will eat up the butyl through all those those little holes. I work in commercial single ply roofing and we use caulk tubes of butyl sealant.
Thanks. Panel placement will be dictated by available real estate, so yes I could install a bottom bracket (what you are calling a uni-lever) to pick up the roof frame cross-members and attach the mount to that. Considered that, but the roof is pretty thick and there is not a lot of force on the mount, so was hoping that would not be necessary.
Would love to hear from others who have screwed into the alum roofs.
Have not thought much or researched sealant yet. Do I need to use butyl in addition to sealant?
Already have some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-10-3-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B000BRF7QE
I've read rather than screwing into the roof, you can use VHB tape - https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-panel-mounts.html
On my roof, the curve is too much to use tape, except for maybe very small panels between the A/C unit and the side.
Quote from: nhlakes on November 23, 2020, 07:49:50 AM
Quote from: Jonathan on November 22, 2020, 11:17:06 PM
What would be optimal is if you could fasten into the Cross beams if the spacing is right. Uni-struts would allow you to hit the cross members but it also raises your profile and wind resistance. Those mounts will all the "millions" of holes are nice but (I know this isn't your first rodeo) ;) when you install butyl tape or butyl sealant and fasten the screws through it, reminder to ensure you completely cover all the exposed butyl with another polymer sealant. UV will eat up the butyl through all those those little holes. I work in commercial single ply roofing and we use caulk tubes of butyl sealant.
Thanks. Panel placement will be dictated by available real estate, so yes I could install a bottom bracket (what you are calling a uni-lever) to pick up the roof frame cross-members and attach the mount to that. Considered that, but the roof is pretty thick and there is not a lot of force on the mount, so was hoping that would not be necessary.
Would love to hear from others who have screwed into the alum roofs.
Have not thought much or researched sealant yet. Do I need to use butyl in addition to sealant?
Already have some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-10-3-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B000BRF7QE
The butyl sealant is a critical component to the sealing. The butyl never cures and stays flexible and pliable and will stay that way through the expansion and contraction of the metal and keep the penetrations watertight. If you only use sealant there is a risk of disbonding and allowing water to migrate into the penetrations. Just ensure that the butyl is completely covered with sealant as butyl will breakdown when exposed to UV.
Quote from: Jonathan on November 24, 2020, 10:40:57 PM
The butyl sealant is a critical component to the sealing. The butyl never cures and stays flexible and pliable and will stay that way through the expansion and contraction of the metal and keep the penetrations watertight. If you only use sealant there is a risk of disbonding and allowing water to migrate into the penetrations. Just ensure that the butyl is completely covered with sealant as butyl will breakdown when exposed to UV.
I had honestly forgotten what the butyl was. I was thinking it was something else. Once I googled it, it was like 'oh, THAT stuff'. Yes, will use that as well. ;) I had some on hand but not the right size. Right size stuff arriving today. Thanks!
Went to install the fixed panel yesterday morning and could not settle on location to mount panel. Turns out the best place to mount the panels is up front. But unfortunately the front of the campers is shaded by a tree much of the time. That's where the trailer is parked 99% of the time.
Now considering just returning the fixed panel and securing the flex panel someplace accessible, efficient, and where the snow will not build up. Will package up panel and mount and ponder for a bit before sending it back.
If the shading is at a permanent parking space at home, what is the problem. You will need very little actual solar power just to keep the batteries up. Then when you go camping someplace else the front location is as good as any, right?
But if what you are describing is a seasonal site where you actually camp then yes, a portable panel would be better. If you haven't bought one yet, consider SunPower's 170 watt flexible panel: https://www.amazon.com/SunPower-Flexible-Efficiency-Solar-Panel/dp/B07MLT3J15/ref=sr_1_19?crid=16XELT9U1DR5D&dchild=1&keywords=200+watt+flexible+solar+panel&qid=1606502786&sprefix=200+watt+flexible+sola%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-19
It is a 24V nominal panel which means lower voltage drop to your controller.
David
Yes, just referring to the parking spot in driveway. I do get your point on that it would likely get enough sun in the shaded spot to maintain it, but would hate to drill holes and discover otherwise. I already have the Renogy 100wt flexible.
No hurry so I think I'll hold off on the drilling any holes. This whole solar thing is just for the fun of it for me, to experiment with solar. It's not like we really need it for anything. My GC batteries hold us for a few days with careful use - and I have a pair of Hondas if/when I need to charge or to run everything off grid. It would just be cool to be more energy independent with the camper.
Hmmn, this is the method I'm going to use to mount a flexible 110W Sunpower panel on my roof. No drilling into the roof!
https://www.rvwithtito.com/articles/install-flexible-solar-panel-rv/ He does a follow up video. I'm using Stainless elevator bolts.
All I'm trying to do is keep my sole 12v batt charged because where I store no power is available.
Small 10A Renogy PWM controller going to mount on panel left of furnace. I ran 6awg wires down corner of dry bath, then through furnace compartment. 4awg lines to go underneath from compartment next to furnace to batty up front. With this wiring, I can always upgrade if I really want to add panels, more batts, etc.
We get plenty of sun in AZ! ;)
Quote from: AZCamper1 on December 08, 2020, 12:49:34 AM
Hmmn, this is the method I'm going to use to mount a flexible 110W Sunpower panel on my roof. No drilling into the roof!
https://www.rvwithtito.com/articles/install-flexible-solar-panel-rv/ He does a follow up video. I'm using Stainless elevator bolts.
All I'm trying to do is keep my sole 12v batt charged because where I store no power is available.
Small 10A Renogy PWM controller going to mount on panel left of furnace. I ran 6awg wires down corner of dry bath, then through furnace compartment. 4awg lines to go underneath from compartment next to furnace to batty up front. With this wiring, I can always upgrade if I really want to add panels, more batts, etc.
We get plenty of sun in AZ! ;)
Welcome to the forum! Looks like you have solar figured out. Good work.
New method for attaching flex solar panels from Brian at RVWithTito that I'll probably use when I get to phase 2 of my installation.
https://youtu.be/uJIEXhnF8MU
I'm part way done with installing my main components. Looks like it will fit quite well in the unused space in front of the pass through storage.
tt2retire, This complexity and cost would only be needed if the roof panel and portable panel are different in output. If they are the same, you can parallel them at a combiner box before the charge controller. There is no need for each panel to have a CC in that case.
On appearances alone, your setup looks very, very well done. GK
I agree it would be less costly with one CC, but I have three different scenarios I'm taking care of for this solar installation.
1) 1 or 2 portable panels only (120 and/or 50W)
2) 3 or 4 roof panels only(100 or 110W)
3) both roof and portable panels
With one CC I could put in a bunch of extra switches and wiring to cover those scenarios, but then I would have to get to the switches which is harder to do given the location and protection (ie door) of the components. I would also like the use of all the solar panels to be really easy in case my LSW or kids might want to help out (who am I kidding here). So for $118 for the 2nd smaller CC, I'm thinking it would at least allow me a little more free relaxing beer sipping time while camping :-)
Finished the pass through storage installation except for adding the doors to cover it up. Next phase is to run the wires to the roof and install the three roof solar panels (hopefully before July's month long trip!). Due to the potential temperature difference between the CCs and the batteries, I mounted a bluetooth temp/voltage sensor to the batteries on the tongue. All my components are from Victron, so they network together except for the BMV 700 battery monitor which I bought before they had the networking capabilities. Seems to be working really well in my backyard testing so far.
Quote from: tt2retire on February 27, 2021, 09:12:58 PM
Finished the pass through storage installation except for adding the doors to cover it up. Next phase is to run the wires to the roof and install the three roof solar panels (hopefully before July's month long trip!). Due to the potential temperature difference between the CCs and the batteries, I mounted a bluetooth temp/voltage sensor to the batteries on the tongue. All my components are from Victron, so they network together except for the BMV 700 battery monitor which I bought before they had the networking capabilities. Seems to be working really well in my backyard testing so far.
Nice job! That really looks nice. And nothing blew up when you plugged it all in! I assume you have lead-acid batteries and not lithium?
@tt2retire (https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?action=profile;u=253) Nice work. Curious as to why did you mounted the Victron BMV in the storage department. Do you have the bluetooth dongle and just use the app?
Thanks for the comments!
I was a bit worried about something blowing up, so I made sure I could shut off the entire new system with just one switchable circuit breaker that is independent from my battery disconnect switch.
Yes, I have two lead-acid batteries (Trojan Solar T105-RE 6V 229 AH). I bought them back in 2018 so they should hopefully last another 6+ years. When I replace them it certainly will be with lithium. I figure at that time I might fill up the other empty area of the pass through storage area with an inverter if it seems necessary. We usually don't carry any extra equipment that needs 120AC.
So I bought my BMV 700 along with the bluetooth dongle back in 2016 just after our first few trips in the trailer. I really struggled with the original single 12V battery on our 13 day Glacier trip. Since the trailer was new I didn't have the confidence to make a bunch of holes so I could mount the monitor display inside. I stuffed the monitor/dongle/extra wire inside a ziplock bag and zip tied it to the top of my pass through storage. I got so use to using the phone app that I never thought much about looking at the display. Now that I have four Victron components that I can monitor through bluetooth, I don't think I'll ever switch to a dedicated display. If I had to do it over again, I would buy the Victron SmartShunt battery monitor which doesn't come with a display.
I think I just found the best route for getting my solar cables (4awg) to my roof. This should work just as well for the 21RBS as my 21BHS. I'm curious what you all might think.
There is a very clear path from the floor to the ceiling in the wall that the fridge and shower share. I put a camera in there and can see all the way through. On the underside of the trailer it gets too conjested before the shared wall on the way back, So I'm planning on popping up from underneath into the big open space around the furnace under the fridge, and cable tying the wires on the perimeter of the floor of the open space to get back to the wall cavity. Both holes in the roof and ceiling will be lined with 1in PVC pipe to protect the wires and help seal the openings. On the roof I'll make sure that the new opening is far enough away from the vent cap so that I can install a waterproof cable junction box (see https://youtu.be/aB8ic6x9DAM).
I'll also install a solar combiner box on the roof in the middle just behind the AC unit (see https://youtu.be/zUsSwLaXzHM).
Finally, I'll use the latest RVWithTito method to install the three SunPower 110W flex solar panels (https://youtu.be/uJIEXhnF8MU). I'll do a slight modification to this method by adding aluminum angle iron to better secure the front and back lattice end caps to the tracks.
I thought a lot about using ridged panels, but I'm most concerned about weight, as I might end up with four panels given how well a forth panel may fit.
Picture shows where I plan to place the panels and two new boxes.
2nd try at attaching the correct picture with boxes shown in red. Three solar panels are the cardboard pieces
You should be aware of two things about flexible solar panels: they deteriorate over time more than rigid panels: I had three early flexible panels that only put out half of their rated wattage after five years. The other is that they are less efficient so it takes more panel area to make the same power as rigid panels. You might be able to fit four panels in place easier with rigid panels.
What kind of solar controller are you planning to use? With three panels I don't think you are going to wire them in series but with four you could wire them in series/parallel and minimize voltage drop in the wiring. You will need a MPPT and not a PWM controller to do that.
David
The wire routing seems fine. Your on the right track to protect the wire from sharp aluminum edges. And, of course, think through where either 12V or 120V may be in the ceiling before getting out the hole saw! And, finally, you can't use too many wire ties on camper wiring; it's a rough ride ;)
Quote from: Merlin on May 04, 2021, 11:32:51 AM
And, finally, you can't use too many wire ties on camper wiring
And, therefore, has been added a new phrase to the vaunted lexicon of ACF speak:
TANSTATMCT (There ain't no such thing as too many cable ties) GK
I agree there are limitations with regard to using flex solar panels. I did look into the AM Solar rocker foot mounts along with the Renogy 100W eclipse panels, but feel more comfortable with the weight, look and substantial attachment method on the flex panels for no drill mounting. Time will teach me more about how long they last.
For the roof panels I'm using a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100V/30A CC. Agree with the 3 vs 4 panel wiring suggestions. With the terminal block in the combiner box I will have the ability to play around with the final configuration. I'm wondering if 4 panels and a VOC spec of 22.8V each (91.2V) if that could potentially be a sweet spot.
Also agree with the TANSTATMCT approach. I'm not sure how many I'll be able to install through the wall cavity but I'll give it a good shot.
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Charge controllers are rated by the maximum amps they can send to the battery(s). In a 12V system those amps get real high real quick when using multiple solar panels. For example, if you have 330w of panels in parallel on a 12v system, you could have 27 amps going into the batteries, which is very close to the 30A capacity of the Victron CC. That's fine, but it won't take any more!
Finally done with installation. I went with the left two panels in series, the right two panels in series, and then the left and right panel sets in parallel. The two victron charge controllers (roof, portable) really work well together since they're networked via Bluetooth. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210615/fd547e3745a6512dc7f93bc4c86b1601.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210615/2b47b4b8ae9574bd8db7f63ef040b106.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210615/b3387c2a8b92cc7bb17d6553aa8d4eda.jpg)
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Looks and sounds great. It's almost like you know what you're doing. ;)
Let us know how that works for you 8)
So far the solar installation has been working great. Worst case was when visiting the Redwoods np in January where we had lots of rain and our batteries got down to 72% SOC.
Just added another way to charge.
I added a DC2DC (victron orion 12/12-30) charger for those days when I'm too shaded or not enough sun light. I don't yet have the added cables in my TV, but I made a little adapter so I can temporarily hook up to the anderson plug on the tongue with my jumper cables.
Still have room left for an inverter, but that will happen when my current FLA batteries (trojan tr-105 225AH) get replaced with lithium a couple of years down the road.
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Do you plan to use pin 4 of the 7 pin connector on your TV to supply the DC2DC charger, or run a separate cable all the way to the TV's batteries. Most TV's use a 10 gauge cable protected by a 30A dash fuse for pin 4. A bit of a voltage drop with #10, about 0.7V but of course the DC2DC charger takes care of that.
David
I'm running separate wires (through recommended 60A fuse & solenoid) from the TV battery to the rear bumper where I'll install the anderson plug (with cover) to match the one I installed on the trailer tongue.
I'll leave the 7-pin wiring as is, but I may pass its aux-12V wire (pin 4) through the new solenoid in the engine compartment as well so I don't have to remember to disconnect the 7-pin if I'm going to be parked for a while.
I had two sets of 4 awg wires left over from my solar installation (25ft & 15ft) so I used one on my trailer installation and will use the other on my TV. The victron orion charger is known to get warm, and in fact it has pretty big heat sinks on its underside. By minimizing the cable voltage drop I'm hopeful that the orion will not have to work so hard and thus not produce as much heat.
If I can avoid installing a thermostatically controlled cooling fan for the pass through storage area, especially if I later install an inverter in the open space between the solar charge controllers and the DC2DC charge controller, I'll have less installation work to do in the future.
Ed...
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