Hi Everyone, my bike is a Salsa Mukluk 3 it's a fat bike with 4 inch wide tire
I also use my bike during the winter!
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w548/paulandre88/Neige%20bicycle/IMG_20141115_150748_zps59d1b038.jpg)
My bike rack is a 1up usa roof rack with the fat bike spacer kit
https://www.1upusa.com/product-rooftray.html (https://www.1upusa.com/product-rooftray.html)
Use bike racks mounted on plywood. While camping put the plywood/rack under the camper:
(http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/vstromklr/2013/2014/IMG_5512_zpsb9e625d4.jpg) (http://s657.photobucket.com/user/vstromklr/media/2013/2014/IMG_5512_zpsb9e625d4.jpg.html)
(http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/vstromklr/2013/IMG_1735_zpsaf9fc440.jpg) (http://s657.photobucket.com/user/vstromklr/media/2013/IMG_1735_zpsaf9fc440.jpg.html)
More picture of my bike rack
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w548/paulandre88/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06/IMG_20150624_205403_zpsfrtrdztq.jpg)
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w548/paulandre88/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06/IMG_20150624_205343_zpsy74duh6x.jpg)
(http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/w548/paulandre88/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-06/IMG_20150624_205331_zpsndejegqz.jpg)
I wanted a bike cover for my new Swagman 63644 rack ( LOVE IT ).
Everything I saw was too expensuve or cheap vinyl.
Had just purchased a new cover for my grill from Amazon. Thought it may work as a bike cover. I don't usually rave about made in China stuff, but these were VERY WELL DESIGNED AND MADE and very reasonably priced. I bought another one for about $25!!!! and added some grommets along the bottom. They come with velcro ties at the bottom, but now I add a few bungee cords for good measure, using the grommets.
WORKS GREAT!!! Buy it.
Happy Trails.......
Another picture
"Use bike racks mounted on plywood. While camping put the plywood/rack under the camper:"
Request permission to steal this idea with minor modification for a kayak. I swear if anyone asks, full credit will be given.
I think if you make even a tiny modification, you can claim credit for the whole thing. That's the philosophy I've adopted ;D
Just added a bike rack to the back of our 21BHS this summer. Had the rear bumper reinforced by the factory when it was built (back when they were still doing it the right way.....see pic below). We bought a Swagman receiver for the bumper and then attached a Swagman bike rack that we already had (from an older SUV). It works great and holds the bikes nice and steady! Then, just to be sure that everything goes well back there while towing, we added a Voyager digital wireless camera for the back of the camper (mounted on top), which also helps us keep an eye on traffic behind us!
Nice setup! I now brings my bike in my truck bed now that I don't tow with my Escape anymore
Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Pro
Factory upgraded bumper on our 16 TBS.
Quote from: jamie on December 27, 2016, 01:42:03 PM
"Use bike racks mounted on plywood. While camping put the plywood/rack under the camper:"
Request permission to steal this idea with minor modification for a kayak. I swear if anyone asks, full credit will be given.
Thanks, Credit is not needed. Hope the idea is something you can build on! :)
Jamie,
Found some old photos:
(http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/vstromklr/2013/IMG_1321_zps407a00cd.jpg) (http://s657.photobucket.com/user/vstromklr/media/2013/IMG_1321_zps407a00cd.jpg.html)
(http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/vstromklr/2013/IMG_1319_zps19b71fbe.jpg) (http://s657.photobucket.com/user/vstromklr/media/2013/IMG_1319_zps19b71fbe.jpg.html)
(http://i657.photobucket.com/albums/uu299/vstromklr/2013/IMG_1318_zpscb267d8c.jpg) (http://s657.photobucket.com/user/vstromklr/media/2013/IMG_1318_zpscb267d8c.jpg.html)
Here is what we have and how we move them..... long bike on top of the truck, mountain or road bikes on the rear deck of the trailer.
Volcanic Patrol Bike, great compromise between a MT and Street bike.
rideandfly,,,,,,
I had a similar set up in the back of the truck, don't ask how, but I ended up breaking the drop-out on the Rock Shox, (on my Cannondale SM500). I now have a "Kuat", great racks.
Quote from: pjcd on December 28, 2016, 04:28:04 PM
rideandfly,,,,,,
I had a similar set up in the back of the truck, don't ask how, but I ended up breaking the drop-out on the Rock Shox, (on my Cannondale SM500). I now have a "Kuat", great racks.
pjcd,
Checked out the Kuat website, nice looking racks, too!
Do motorized bikes count? If so, here are our bikes in their rack ready for transport (rack is made by BoltItOn and can hold up to 3 motorcycles):
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w18/BillandRobbin/bikes_zpsx0xkojhb.jpg)
And here is a more recent picture of the bikes in their natural habitat:
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w18/BillandRobbin/P1170633_zpsgv7usd2z.jpg)
The top pick was me loading up for our maiden voyage back in February 2015. The bottom picture is from September 2016, same bikes but my DR650 got a color change from gray to blue in between the two pictures. I really wanted blue when I bought it brand new back in 2012, but they haven't made the DR in blue since 2008. So this year I picked up an aftermarket larger fuel tank in blue and then a set of complete plastics in blue (with white number plates) to match.
(http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w18/BillandRobbin/P1170605_zps6qjtlqda.jpg)
Quote from: Chappy133 on December 28, 2016, 08:35:10 AM
Factory upgraded bumper on our 16 TBS.
Chappy - That bumper reinforcement/installation job done by the factory is not correct and I would not attach any bike rack (or anything at all) to that bumper right now. Take a close look at how ours was done in the picture I posted above.
That's how it needs to be done. If you're dealer can't correct it then you'll have to find someone who knows how to weld aluminum and reinforce it on the inside (not on the outside). It's critical that you get it done right before you attach anything to that bumper. Good luck!
+1 on gbpack's comments. Not only is that factory mod wrong, it's worse than the unmodified bumper. -1 for the "quick and easy" factory.
Quote from: billmoore on December 29, 2016, 12:07:20 AM
Do motorized bikes count? If so, here are our bikes in their rack ready for transport (rack is made by BoltItOn and can hold up to 3 motorcycles):
Billmoore,
Nice bikes, rig, and scenery!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: gbpack on December 29, 2016, 01:07:42 AM
Quote from: Chappy133 on December 28, 2016, 08:35:10 AM
Factory upgraded bumper on our 16 TBS.
Chappy - That bumper reinforcement/installation job done by the factory is not correct and I would not attach any bike rack (or anything at all) to that bumper right now. Take a close look at how ours was done in the picture I posted above.
That's how it needs to be done. If you're dealer can't correct it then you'll have to find someone who knows how to weld aluminum and reinforce it on the inside (not on the outside). It's critical that you get it done right before you attach anything to that bumper. Good luck!
Well that bumper has over 4000 miles of hauling bikes on it. Could you provide some more details on why it is not correct. I cannot go to the dealership and raise the issue without why it is wrong in detail. Thanks
I am also confused because on the soon to be departed forum Pinstriper said I had it done right: http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/2422/2016-tbs-bumper-size?page=2 (http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/2422/2016-tbs-bumper-size?page=2)
I don't have a lot of knowledge on the subject but I though it would be good to copy some details of that thread here.
Quote from: charliemLet me amplify and clarify your statement so as to be crystal clear to Jim T. Simply welding an additional 2x4 to the original 2x4 bumper is not sufficient. I know you understand this, but I want to make sure it's perfectly clear for new owners. The additional 2x4 must be welded ahead (in front of) the existing bumper and must be welded to the frame members as well.
Quote from: charliemThe problem is failure of the bumper, not the carrier or hitch. The failure modes are twofold: Twisting/bending of the 2x4 bumper, and failure of the welds attaching the bumper to the frame members. The whipping motion of a bouncing trailer amplified by the long moment arm of the carrier create a significant torque load on the bumper. The torque puts the top of the bumper-to-frame welds in tension which is the weakest mode for a weld. Weld failure can be gradual or catastrophic. If you do pursue this mod I recommend securing the load with a strong cable tied to the trailer frame itself. This will deter theft and, in the event of failure, prevent the load from endangering traffic following behind you on the road.
This picture was posted by charleschapman (Chappy133 on this forum) on the other forum and it seem to be done differently than yours and more like charliem describe.
I am no expert, just copying info from the other forum
EDIT: I was wrong gbpack has it the right way please read other posts
Quote from: Chappy133 on December 30, 2016, 01:54:35 PM
I am also confused because on the soon to be departed forum Pinstriper said I had it done right: http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/2422/2016-tbs-bumper-size?page=2 (http://livinlite-owners.com/thread/2422/2016-tbs-bumper-size?page=2)
Now I am confused I though Chappy133 had it the good way and gbpack didn't.
I don't know what Pinstripper was referring to with ^^^^^ but maybe it was to having the factory mod it vs a dealer. IMO what the factory did for Chappy133 is inadequate. It simply creates a 4x4 cross section without addressing the fundamental strength of the bumper and its attachment to the frame. The weak spot of the original bumper is the top weld to the frame. It is in tension which is a weak mode for any weld. If this weld fails the two side welds will begin to tear. LL has a documented inconsistency in their welding so this becomes a concern. Simply tacking an additional 2x4 onto the rear of the existing bumper does nothing to strengthen the attachment to the frame and, due to additional leverage, actually increases the stress on the original welds. Bottom line: The added 2x4 should be placed forward of the existing bumper and welded on three surfaces to each of the frame rails and on top and bottom along the length of the existing bumper. Gbpack's appears correct. This was my original drawing I gave to LL and they followed it exactly. Chappy's installation may survive forever but, given the geometry and LL's weld history, the welds should be checked for cracks before and after each trip, particularly after rough or bumpy road exposures.
Ok so the good way is like gbpack
Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk Pro
Here's a Youtube video of Sean's bumper modification. Charlie's drawing, Sean's QS 10, and
gbpack's bumpers are the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REDEPauA0us
Guys - thanks to all who jumped in and attempted to explain how the bumper reinforcement should be done. Here is another picture of our rear bumper (same one that I posted earlier in this thread). Click on the link below the picture in order to open it up and get a better look at how it should be reinforced.
You might have answered this before, but how much did the material and labor cost you?
Quote from: pjcd on December 31, 2016, 12:01:34 PM
You might have answered this before, but how much did the material and labor cost you?
We had it done as part of the trailer build at the factory and, honestly, I don't think they added in any additional cost for it. This was something that the dealer wrote in at the bottom of the purchase order (after clearing it with the factory sales guy first), and it didn't affect the pricing portion of it. I know. Wow!
Which bike? Which rack? LOL. DH is a mechanic at our LBS. He is adamant that the bikes ride INSIDE as much as possible. We have a new 16 TBS that we haven't loaded up yet but in the old 13 RDB we could squeeze 4 bikes inside. One laying on the bed, one in the aisle between the kitchen and bathroom and two side by side in front of the jack knife sofa. Looks like this picture has his Salsa Beargrease with summer 29+ wheels on it and my old Safire 26er. Mountain biking is our passion. Camping is what we do to be close to the trailhead. So it's all about the bikes (and dogs) in our family. When not towing I have a 1UP hitch rack that I've grown to like - I didn't at first. Other bikes are my new 2017 Spec. Camber Carbon, 2015 Beargrease, 2015 Camber SWORKS, and the two road bikes. I had a Mukluk 2 before the BG. Loved it! Now if we could just get some snow this winter we could have some real fat tire fun!
(http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x420/mtbmojo83/20150606_074137.jpg) (http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/mtbmojo83/media/20150606_074137.jpg.html)
No charge for up 4x4 bumper for us.
mojospeople, I agree, inside is alway better, especially with the price of bikes. However, it can't alway be done, the second best, (imo) is in the P/U bed, I took my Thule roof rack and placed it in the bed of my truck and it worked great. I've traveled with them in the bed, on the back, on the top and on the front. The front being the worst, luckly, the only issues I came across with them being up front was lots of smashed bugs all over the bikes.
We use the Swagman rack in a frame mounted front hitch from Etrailer.
FYI on cost, I just got a quote for adding the extra 2x4 as discussed, and for just the welding work, the cost will be $850 (yikes!). This is with me doing all the pre/post rear bumper tail lights wiring removal/installation. Sure wish I could have had this done at the factory. I had a heck of a time finding a welding shop that had the experience and was willing to do the aluminum welding.
I had the 2X4 aluminum added to the trailer about 2 months ago. The aluminum was about $60.00 and the welding was about 2 hrs. at $75.00/hr.
I did the pre/post work of removing the lights too.
Gerald
tt2retire, I think your welder is on a different planet. I think Gerald's welder is more reasonable. Even so it seems 2 hours labor is high, but so be it. Look for another welder in a different city and tell him you don't need it welded with gold.
On the road again!
Tried another city (Modesto CA) about an hour away, and the price came down from $850 to $330, and they did a really nice job on the welds.
Swagman hitch receiver and Trailhead 4 bike rack installed, along with the Voyager WV0843 backup camera. I also added two straps from the top of the rack to the frame members just for good measure.
I'm using a fork mount bike block for the fifth (kid's) bike to attach to the bottom bunk inside.
Anyone have a total bikes weight on the rear bumper to share? I'm looking at just under 123 lbs of bikes (including one adapter tube and one cable lock) for my setup.
Thanks,
Ed...
Here is one of our bikes in front of our new 2017 F-150 XLT 3.5 with 6 1/2 ft bed. The bike is a Haibike with Bosch battery and motor. The bike is pedal assist, so it only provides power when you pedal. It is a German made bike and really well built. It can help you power up to 22 MPH but then the motor cuts out. We go to towns that have great bike trails. One of our favorite is Little Rock,AR. They have a loop trail along the river the is 35 miles long. We live in Austin,TX and they have a great trail along the river in downtown also.
All ready to go.
Nice bike and rack!