Aluminum Camper Forum

Here are some pictures of my recent changes.

The old furnace compartment was a complete disaster, why a vented exterior cover when most units have a solid cover with just the vent ports. It was extremely dirty, took a good hour of cleaning before I proceeded with anything else. There wasn't any way to save any furnace components, the dirt ruined everything. I loved how LL bundled the wiring from the furnace and thermostat. I didn't want to manipulate the LP hose after capping the line, too cold and pretty well static in that original position. Will secure a bit better when things warm up.

Also, the thermostat wiring is run up through a cut out in the aluminum extrusion framing with no loom or protection around the cut out, definitely a risk of damaging and shorting out those wires. If your furnace stops working that could also be a potential cause.

Water was accumulated at the bottom of the exterior cover on the inside, you wouldn't be able to see it unless you removed everything. Definitely would have rotted out a stick framed trailer. Not sure how it penetrated through, but it did.

The new black exterior coupler has a magnetic connection for the cover and also to connect the intake vent duct. Easy and extremely solid to use.

Still a bit more to do, finish the ducting vents, remove the old thermostat, secure the old wiring, insulate under the fridge with some AFB and run the new wiring for my additional exterior fridge compartment fan. I might also insulate the interior 3" vent ducts, but, I kinda like that radiant heat circulating in that area.

Hey Merlin,

I don't mind the handling of the fuel, just a pain now having 3 types. Propane, gas, and now diesel/kerosene.

The exhaust is pretty minimal, plus the unit will be tucked under the rear of the trailer with the exhaust extending down and towards the back of the rig. Very easy to extend it as required. Plus, the next camper is usually 100-200 yards away.

Always off grid, and more often than not the temps get close to freezing most nights.

Your RecPro would be the unit I would purchase as well. Just a lower priority for us now.

I did look at that Valterra unit, figured since I have the fans and all the components, that I would same some money and put one together.

Cheers,

https://planarheaters.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Portable-heater-Planar-2D-4D-flyer-rev.4.pdf

I am finally getting rid of that useless OEM furnace. As you know, loud, can't sleep with unit cycling, inefficient power usage, multiple issues with; circuit board, limit switch, sail switch etc.

Used a Camco Wave 3 heater for the past few years. Fell apart with all the road vibrations, can't run at night, severe condensation, especially during rain and snowy conditions. Day use in dry conditions, it is great.

Moving towards a Planar portable diesel heater. Early spring I will remove the Atwood furnace, cap the LP line, install new 3" ducts (hopefully a take off vent under the shower pan providing heat into the rear bath), fab a new access panel with a quick disconnect inlet (reuse the old panel possibly).

The portable unit gives me multi use options and I could mount it in the original furnace space with an exterior tank as well. Yearly cleaning is recommended, so having easy access is a plus with the portable unit. Will run a mix of diesel and or kerosene to reduce soot build up in the burn chamber and increase performance at altitude. Low fuel and power consumption, 12 volt ready, constant run option for cold nights. Dry heat!

Mountain camping is challenging with staying warm, our southern neighbors have the opposite, keeping cool and reducing humidity. In 8 years we have used our AC once for about 10 minutes, that's another item to get deleted. Horrible unit.

Fridge will get an additional 12v computer fan(s) installed in the lower access area with a switch installed on the interior to help with cooling on hot days. Made up a small hard wired USB computer fan for the interior fridge compartment on initial start ups and warm day. Definitely helps with cool down. That and a couple ice packs.

Will provide some pictures when work begins.

PH

Hi,

Yes, they did repair all the existing cracks, but the focus was adding in the gussets. With all the welding, I had maybe two wires that had some burnt material but, nothing major. They didn't have to drop any of the holding tanks or move any plumbing lines as well. More emphasis was on the slide side.

When I initially discovered the frame issues (on an extensive trip) I had a welder redo some of the problem areas just so we could get back home. Those areas all eventually cracked again. It wasn't until the gussets had been installed did the problem go away. No issues with the main north south frame, or the A frame, everything was around the perimeter cross members.

On a side note, have your fabricator reinforce your rear bumper at the same the frame is being worked on, so in the future you could mount a bike carrier or a tray to carry additional items. Something I wish I did.

Hi Ed,

Yup, pretty consistent with other rigs over the years. LL did not add enough structure to reinforce the frames, and this is the result.

But, it can be fixed, permanently. We had our 2015 RBS repaired roughly six years ago with absolutely no issues to date. We had about twenty gussets added to those problem areas, we doubled up gussets specific to the slide area, in front and behind the axles, a couple of inches apart.

The old archive has a lot of information about this issue. I would contact a reputable aluminum fabricator/ welder and get some gussets cut out and welded in.

Cost to us was about $3000 CAD and took about a week to complete.

Good luck!

Ah yes, this is a good opportunity to remove that section of plating and use some better fasteners to screw the vertical trailer wall back into the frame. There is a thread on this as well. LL just used a few basic screws to attach this portion and they will fail creating a gap on the interior floor.

I used some heavy stainless lag screws, made a huge difference. Only had to do that on same side as yours and on the passenger side from the wheel well to the storage compartment. Took me an afternoon to complete both sides. Replaced all the metal attachment screws to stainless as well.

Hi,

Finally added some protection for the fresh water tank. It has definitely taken some impacts over the years. Used a length of diamond plate rubber mat, 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum angle, self tapping metal screws and some blind rivets.

Have you looked at the Autoclima Fresco 9000 for cooling? It is able to operate on 12v as well. The difficult task would be locating the two interior components. They have some other units in the Fresco line as well worth a look.

We use a few low voltage rubber industrial heated floor mats to dry our ski boots and help with keeping our feet warm in the winter.

PH

Hey,

Finally had to change my electric hot water series switch located on the exterior bottom left corner of the hot water tank.

What a PITA! Easy to remove the switch and gasket, but, one of the connections was either hung up inside the compartment , or Suburban saved .5 cent and didn't extend the wire length enough. As a result one connection popped back inside the compartment after I unplugged it. Can't really get at it from the interior either.

If you change yours, have extended narrow needle-noise pliers or haemostats, just in case you have to fish that connection out from inside the compartment or, just to help extend the wire(s) after you unplug both connections.

PH

Hi,

Have you removed the furnace vent cover and checked out that corner below the fridge? You should be able to get your phone in there for some pictures and feel around for damage. Leave it off and check it out on your next trip. The foil connector hose is just taped on.

Depending where we camp and humidity, after a week or so we get lots of water in our fridge's drip tray, not sure if it could be from there or even the freezer after a trip? The drip tray could be damaged allowing water to run down the sides of the fridge? We are always making sure we dry that out before storage. Always a surprise just how much water and ice accumulates.

Water infiltration is the worst.

Good luck.

Hi,

I'm sure others will chime in, but I'm considering that having your rear deck loaded with gear is connected to your sway issue. A good starting number for your tongue weight is approximately 10-15% of your total trailer weight. If you calculate your numbers based on the current setup, you may conclude that you're under on your tongue weight.

Hello,

I just wanted to inform any Tundra truck owners on the forum to avoid this company if you are considering adding protection for your catalytic converters.

Unfortunately, the owner has decided to stop communicating with his customers in regards to lead times, order status, shipping status etc. He is also not providing information on refunds for cancelled orders. Plenty of threads on tundras.com regarding his recent lack of customer service.


Happy camping!

Hi,

We have no issues drinking from our fresh water tank. Every season after de-winterizing while the hot water tank is bypassed we bleach the tank and lines. Regular maintenance. Most of our camping is off grid for weeks at a time and we regularly filter water from rivers and streams. Gravity bag set up with a 1 micron and chemical filter. Numerous options available, but hauling water and backwashing the filters gets tiresome after 3-5 gallons. 10-15 gallons not fun and that is your day! Some water goes in the holding tank and some we leave in our drinking containers.

Filling up via taps, questionable locations we wipe the faucet with a bleach cloth and use a cheap Camco in line hose filter to remove sediment and then a decent 1 micron in line filter. Takes a bit to fill but worth the wait. Easy to use and good value. Decent water sources I'll just use the Camco filter.

Sawyer has a screw on tap filter that you could put on the sink faucet and that will give you 1 micron as well. You could still use a cheap sediment filter to fill with on your potable hose. We filter all water going into the trailer, just depends on what level of filtration we want, saves the lines and faucets from hard water build up, scale etc.

Or spend the extra money and go for a permanent system. Endless options.

Have fun!

Hello!

If any Tundra owners are wanting to upgrade their suspension, I highly recommend Bilstein 6112 front, 5160 in the rear. I also added new Bilstein UCA's and new Coach Builder shackles with poly bushings. Maintained my rake with .75" lift in the front and .625" in the rear.

The ride is vastly improved, but, towing is incredible! The trailer doesn't bounce around as much on forestry roads or washboard. Just feels good and the drive is a bit more relaxing.

My 2015 OEM Bilstein rear shocks started leaking, that prompted the upgrade.

Very happy!

This is what mine looked like.