Aluminum Camper Forum

Quote from: TeamMcZajic on May 04, 2023, 10:23:12 AMI would definitely recommend taking off the old stuff completely, cleaning those spots thoroughly, and starting fresh with new product. That way you know that you've sealed everything well and with product that should last for a few years before needing regular inspections and possible touch ups.

Many thanks. Any suggestions on old stuff removal? I'm guessing that it requires some chipping and cutting to remove it.

Greetings from New England.

Our 2017 16TBS is in need of some roof TLC. It has weathered 6 years of winter ice and snow as well as burning hot summer sun from desert heat to Atlantic coast nor'easter's torturous rain. She is no barn queen and has endured all with nary a leak.

I assume the roof is a rubberized material and at this stage would do with a good cleaning. Recommended Dicor rubber roof cleaner. Should it be resealed after cleaning?

The exterior edges all appear to be in good shape with no loose or exposed seams. The perimeter sealing compound is also holding up well.

My biggest concern is the seals around pipes, vents, antenna and so on. While firmly in place, much of it is showing large cracks as though it was shrinking and dried out. Can I just recoat it or should I remove it and reapply? I so, best removal process?

We look forward to another season of camping in our 16TBS. It is wonderfully resilient and has more than satisfied our ever expanding RV experience. One of our best investments ever.

Thanks all.

Gordon and Carolyn

When first using our camper I Rube-Goldgberg a hard wired GoPro camera to a wireless TX at the trailer jack and then to video receiver in the TV. Unless you have the ambidexterity of a television green screen weather person I found the lefty-righty non-mirrored image coupled with the normally reversed reactions of backing up overwhelming for my limited abilities. I soloed the entire length of the Delaware river parking nightly in campgrounds for a about a week and quickly found the setup useless. Better to take your time jumping in and out of the TV to assess the situation. Slower, safer and a lot less frustration for me. There is no better replacement than a great travel companion that knows how to place themselves in mirror sight and understands the process.

Quote from: Merlin on May 25, 2022, 07:25:41 PM

Quote from: Pinstriper on May 24, 2022, 11:59:41 PMIs it possible by "12 volt AC breaker" he means "the AC breaker for the 12v converter" ?

That might make sense, as the source of the short could be somewhere between the converter and the battery.

You might be on to something, because a cross connection between the converter and battery would also explain the no problems when running on just battery power.

Correct. I am arriving at that conclusion. Which I would assume any interior DC load that would intercept the run lights circuit. As to why only the rear run lights are illuminated by the short might signify a minor contact abrasion near the back of the TT. Surprisingly none of the DC fuses are blown?

I will go back over the run light circuit to investigate a possibility or by pulling DC circuit fuses by elimination. My worst fear is the bathroom shower wall and slide out control wall which will be hard to access.

Thanks again for all the assistance. Wishing everyone a grand summer.
 

Thanks again for your replies some of which has been discussed in my previous post. . And thanks also for this forum which is a Livin Lite life saver.

I MISSPOKE. it was not the ceiling lights breaker (fuse) that was the varying factor in the run lights illuminating with shore power but the 12 Volt AC branch breaker.

Thus, with the TT solely on shore power the rear five high red and two bumper mounted red run lights will illuminate with the 12 Volt AC breaker on. With this breaker off these run lights are off. None of the other run lights, perimeter or top forward are effected. This entire scenario is intermittent and has not been observed while on 12V house battery power.

An illogical presumption is the TV 30 amp fuse blows when this unknown 12v power source is added to the 12V TV pin#3 output creating an overload. Previous statements disprove this unless pin#4 of the trailer connection is active in the TT.

What purpose does this AC branch circuit 12 Volt breaker serve? Pin #4?

As previously posted my running light circuit continues to blow TV fuse on short. My attempts to chase all run light wiring for short has provided no specific answer. However, I believe to be closer to a solution as the following has revealed itself.

The TT is always connected to shore power while parked at home and not connected to the TV. One evening after dark I happened to see the entire rear run/nav lights lit up like a Christmas tree! With further inspection I was able to close the short by throwing the interior lights breaker switch.

The task now is to be able to trace the routing of the interior lighting circuit. Any advice as to how this may be accomplished would  be greatly appreciated. One caveat that has me completely puzzled is that the panel breaker has no effect on the light circuit when powered only by the 12V house battery. I cannot complete the wiring scheme in my mind.

Any and all suggestions including witchcraft will be gratefully received.

Happy Spring to all from New England. Time to replace our Safe-T-Alert. Unable to discern the correct fuse before removing. Anybody?

Also failing memory on my part. Pictured On/Off switch. Can't recall its use. Seems like always on.

Well, I'll be damned. I could have spent the next ten years inside that trailer, and as a man with my education, experience, intelligence, good looks, etc., would have never recognized that trim as an electrical chase. It is obvious that I am not qualified to do the job. !@#$%&

Thanks

My hope, slim at best, is that I find the short at the frame level where it is most exposed. As to the upper wiring I am clueless as to how to even access it. Your advise on that would be most appreciated.

I have yet to look to the junction box under the tongue. Seeing that it is exposed to the weather and road grime as well as physical forces I will have a look there as well.

Again, very much appreciate the input.

Much obliged. Looks like a good winter project. Now to find a nice warm barn. 

Quote from: Pinstriper on October 21, 2021, 12:09:56 AM
Every place the wire goes through a hole drilled in the aluminum is a potential cut point for the insulation. Whether its the siding, the structure, the frame - it isn't like they put rubber grommets at every hole, or deburred them.

Upon further investigation, it would appear that this is the case. Application of 12V DC to the TT connector illuminates the running lights without issue. I would conclude that somewhere in the wiring, the insulation has been been worn and shorts only while the TT is in motion. Finding it will require visual inspection.  How to correct this is beyond me short of re-wiring the entire rig. Lower level wiring might be accomplished, but roof top?

Quote from: Powder Hounds on October 20, 2021, 01:57:11 PM
This was the original 7 pin LL plug from 2020.

The seven pin TT connector is a pre-mold pressure fit assembly that does not allow easy access. On the surface looks to be in good shape. Comments? Will continue to search for the culprit..

Thanks all.  Most wiring for Running lights is internal and can't imagine rodent damage. Will update as I proceed with correcting the issue. Travel is done for the winter months so I am not in a hurry, just disappointed that our rig is down after so many years of excellent service. Will look to the seven pin connector first. Seems a likely culprit. Happy trails!

Gordon

16TBS Run/Nav lights continue to fail with blown 15A TV fuse. Will work with fuse replacement for a limited time then fail. Overload or short? Need help to track the problem. Thanks.

Camco replacement.  Easy peasy, and done. Thanks