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Topics - GrampaKilt

#1
Livin Lite General Discussion / 3500# axles on 14DB??
October 05, 2022, 09:03:18 PM
So I finally got around to repacking my bearings and ordered seals based on the 2 3000#/1.5" brake pad Dexter axles supposedly on the 14DB. (Yes, I ordered without taking off the tires/drums first.) Well the seals were too small. The brake pads are 2.25" wide and according to all info Dexter, only found on 3.5K/4.4K axles.

So do I have heavier duty drums mated to 3K axles? Or, have 3.5K axles been re-labelled as 3K on my CL? Just wondering what this axle anomaly is all about. Ideas? GK
#2
Greetings to this special group of aluminum camper owners on this Christmas Day that will likely be remembered for a lifetime! For the admins behind the scene, thank you for your dedication to this forum.

Since Christmas is a time of lists, I sat down and made one of the the upgrades/mods done to my 2014DB. Wow, it's long! Many correct deficits in CL's that I'm sure, had the company continued under Tuttle, would have become standard. Nonetheless, I've always maintained this 'generational' travel trailer is worthy of the cost and energy of all the upgrades. Not many more to do now, I shouldn't wonder. GK

Exterior
•   Husky Brute electric trailer jack
•   WD brackets/sway bar ball (no longer needed d/t GMC 1500 purchase)
•   Maxxis radial tires
•   Dual 20# propane tank holder with cover & automatic change-over valve (can be viewed through window cut into cover)
•   Propane outlet for barbecue
•   Custom aluminum tray for 2 batteries
•   Rear bumper aluminum storage box & sewer hose storage
•   Front radius window install
•   Door—inside horizontal pull/push bar, top edge awning roller, T-style SS door holder, fold-away grab handle
•   Frame mounted level indicator
Electrical
•   Battery upgrade—2 Trojan 6V
•   Battery to power center wiring upgraded to #4 gauge
•   Main battery disconnect & 50A fuse off B+
•   USB exterior outlet (for awning lights)
•   Progressive Industries built-in EMS
•   TR16 Battery Monitor
•   Extra 12V & USB charging outlets (with shelf)
•   12V fans over bed
•   Fantastic Fan with remote & automatic rain sensor
•   Double flexible/push button LED reading lights over bed
•   Digital thermostat (heating)
Plumbing
•   Shower single-lever faucet
•   Oxygenics shower head
•   SS sink with faucet in shower
•   2 gal water pressure tank
•   Winterizing bypass valve
•   Tornado rotary black tank flusher with quick connect
•   Quick connect domestic water inlet
•   All traps HepvO waterless
•   SeeLevel II tank monitors
•   Electric anode rod added to gas only water heater; new dual fuel water heater switch plate installed
•   2-SS, mirrored med cabinets above WC
•   Towel racks & TP holder
Kitchen & Storage
•   Kitchen reno featuring additional access door with attached garbage container on cabinet's 45 degree angle, quartzite counter top, undermount SS sink, single lever faucet, aluminum subway
     self-stick tile backsplash, pull out baskets, custom cutlery center, dry erase upper cabinet door surface
•   European-type kitchen exhaust hood (Camec brand)
•   Fridge: interior circ fan with light & 2 exterior squirrel cage venting fans, all temp controlled
•   Articulating eating/laptop tray each end of sofa
•   Aluminum edging on dinette table
•   Ceiling clips to hold open upper awning storage doors
Other
•   Pioneer 'car' stereo with Bluetooth
•   TV sound output linked to Pioneer stereo
•   Vinyl click flooring covered with interlocking carpet squares (not in BR)
•   Aluminum support bar under dinette table in bed position
•   Valance upgrade
Necessary fixes
•   Re-secure fallen storage cabinet above sofa
•   Re & re leaking fresh water tank
•   Correct factory miswiring of water heater switch
•   Replace leaking 2" roof vent sleeves with 1½"sleeves over 1½"ABS pipe (doh!)
•   Re-caulk trim edge by front radius
•   Re-glue strips falling off Adzel panel joints
•   Re-glue cushion velcro strips on walls
#3
Quote from: Pinstriper on January 24, 2017, 11:25:29 AM
We had a Brita mounted to the faucet but changed to a Pur. Pur's filter covers virus and bacteria plus all the other contaminents.

We also put a charcoal filter at the standpipe as a prefilter for the entire shebang.
Some time ago, Pinstriper wrote this, so I've started a new thread.

I like the idea of a faucet filter but have not found any feedback regarding use in an RV. I wonder if you could comment, Pinstriper, and others, about functionality in the context of an RV's water pressure. Any reason you choose PUR? I wouldn't mind installing an undercounter filter but the thought of adding another spigot to the countertop, not to mention another hole through the quartzite, may take some convincing. GK
#4
Read this to the end and wonder!

After winter, I noticed quite a puddle of water behind the toilet of my 14DB. Finding nothing amiss by the usual suspects, I decided on observation. During the next heavy downpour, there it was, trickles of water slithering down the back wall (BTW, thank goodness for Adzel) and after every heavy rain since then. For months, I've examined the roof in that area with the proverbial fine tooth comb. Even tried flooding. Nada! Then today...

I took the cover off the shower grey water vent and noted the ABS pipe was (factory) sliced off (ripped more like it) below the inner sleeve of the plastic vent cover. Gotcha!, methought. Off came the whole cover, dicor and all. But before extending the pipe and installing a new cap, I thought it prudent to try another water test. A good deal of H2O went down the vent roof opening. Dammit! No leak along the back wall, just ribbons of water twisting around the vent pipe to the floor and out. For some reason-maybe lunch cleared my brain fog-I looked closer at the ragged edge of the vent pipe and noticed a few grains of crud on one side of the pipe lip; like crud that's left at the edge of a mud puddle once the water's evaporated. Another water test, but this time I trickled water only at the crud area. Less than a minute later, water was dripping down the back wall!

OK, here's a forensic guess. First of all the, LL workers goofed by butchering off the vent pipe too close to the roof. With no vent cover sleeve protection, rain splash trickled straight down the outside of the pipe, not just anywhere, but exactly above a location where the vent pipe happened to be wedged against the ceiling opening. From there, the water seemed to have a linear run to the back wall. Maybe, there just happened to be a joint in the ceiling styrofoam at that precise location for the water to follow!

I think it was Malcolm Gladwell who showed how a series of improbable events have downed airliners. Now I can see how that happens! GK
#5
The TR16 battery monitor is a poor RVer's substitute for the Victron BMV 700 series. It's probably the best and most popular of the cheaper battery monitors currently priced for about $30 USD at Aliexpress. The original instructions were a literal Chinese to English translation fiasco which probably forced more purchasers over to the Victron than actually installed the TR16!

Recently, properly translated English instructions were released, a huge improvement, but still confusing and inaccurate in places especially for users of Lead Acid batteries. Since I've lost some hair (from pulling it out) over setup of the TR16, I've written my own set of instructions and am posting it below as a link to Google Drive. I think they're pretty good. My long suffering spouse, who knows naught of batteries, felt she could setup the TR16 using them. That said, I'd be interested to hear suggestions for improvement from other forum members.

Here's hoping that these instructions help prevent further male pattern baldness! GK https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wmgwDycxc9Vuancw2r8nEb9q7z_AA92N/view?usp=sharing
#6
Before purchasing the 14DB CL, I really wanted a Safari Alto F17, an all-aluminum trailer still manufactured in Quebec, and IMO, had/has a look and finish much superior to anything LL produced. In particular, the Alto came with an amazing front window. Since a CL was roughly half the price of an Alto, I choose the 14DB and vowed someday, I’d put in a front radius window. A few years passed since such a window was extremely difficult to source much less having a radius that might match the front of a CL.

Then, in summer 2018, I noticed Little Max Teardrops had front windows (European acrylic, no less) and had a hunch the trailer’s front radius might be close to the CL’s. I did the tangent math, the Max from a side profile pic, and my CL for real; the radii seemed identical! (Once the window arrived, I realized the radius of the Max was about 6 inches less than the CL—learning one should never try to take accurate measurements off an internet picture...Due to bendable acrylic, thick weather-stripping and window levers on the side, the radius difference mattered little.)

How I came to purchase the window is a matter of some intrigue. The players in the drama don’t want me to broadcast it on social media, so I won’t. The window, shade/screen and installation trim/weather-stripping are from the same European source that supplied LL.

Installation:
The window came with no CAD drawings; I had to figure out the rough opening by comparing with the side windows. I would need to cut through 2 ribs and was concerned they would spring outwards, but nothing budged. For the actual cutting, I used my dremel with a metal cutting disk. (Slow, it was, and many disks used, but I didn’t trust myself with an angle grinder!)

The floating ribs would need to be anchored inside the trailer to the continuous ribs on either side of the window. The lower ribs were secured with a length of 1½” x 1½” x 1/8” alum angle. I hid this angle by adding a convenient 4” shelf on the top flange. I used 1¼” x 1/8” alum tube for the top and hid it all behind a new 3-segment valance, needed for the window anyways.

Speaking of valances, I decided to change out the ugly 70’s fabric on the other valances. What I found was unbelievably poor valance workmanship. Staples into the end of 1/8” MDF (who does that?), obviously water delaminated pieces of OSB, etc. Scott Tuttle, you said other manufacturers don’t want potential buyers to look behind the surface. It’s a fail for CL valances!! I rebuilt them all!

The change this window made to the inside ambience of our trailer was astounding. There’s a vast improvement in natural ventilation, not to mention more light. We can see stars from the bed. This window is hardly the size of Alto’s picture window, but I’ll take it for a win. If I could change one thing, I wish the window was a little higher, that is, the same height of the CL’s side windows. Should there be any other CL owners foolish enough (actually it wasn’t that hard) to tackle this project, you can PM for advice. GK
#7
With all my mods and upgrades, I've never concerned myself with leveling the trailer before the reno. After all, vertical framing should be at right angles to the floor and horizontals should be parallel. During our travels, the trailer has long been leveled using outside walls and horizontal lines, but it's never appeared level inside. Something was wonky.

Recently, I definitively leveled the trailer using the plane of the inside floor. The culprit was easy to identify and my heart sank. The new and very permanently installed quartzite kitchen counter top dropped 3/8" over 2' from front to back! My LSW said no one will notice, leave it alone. However, many will understand that this is akin to a burr under the saddle.

The counter top was close enough to parallel longitudinally, so I spent a brutal day separating the glued-on sides and rear of the quartz (without cracking it) from the cabinet and shimming to level. (This required several rounds of Vitamin I!) I don't use potty language but there were more than a few grrr's directed at the carelessness of the Wakarusa framers and welders working one summer day in 2013. GK
#8
It seems there was a time that the lifetime warranty on PI products only applied if the units were installed by authorized dealers. Herein is my experience-it couldn't be more the opposite.

The install of EMS-LCHW30 was all good until I decided to add a remote bypass rocker switch. I didn't do adequate research on the wiring, and my rudimentary knowledge of electronic circuitry clearly was not adequate. The EMS became 'dead'. Thinking I could just change out a module, I called tech support. They would need more information, but just before ending the call, I mentioned a burning smell when applying power to the unit. Immediately, the tech fellow says he needs talk to a senior tech and would call back. Senior tech called back stating PI will replace the whole unit under warranty.

GK-'but assuredly this is my fault'.

Tech-'who says assuredly, nowadays? That's OK and BTW, one of the remote bypass wires connects to a blank terminal under the input neutral.'

GK-'I will name my first born after you' or something like that...

The replacement unit arrived yesterday. GK
#9
One of life's highlights was driving across the continent to pick up a 2014 14DB from the LL plant in Wakarusa. Priceless were the astonished looks of the workers and brass when they saw my mighty tow vehicle, a 2010 VW Jetta TDI equipped with a WDH installed just the day before by the radical thinking hitchers at Can-Am RV in London, Ontario. Then I saw the kitchen. The flimsy countertop, plastic shallow sink and el cheapo faucet seemed out of step with the LL brand and the kitchens found in other above average TTs I had researched. I noted the generous kitchen storage, but soon realized the compartments were better suited to a bus depot than a galley! What was Scott thinking (rhetorically speaking) installing an undignified and inefficient kitchen into a trailer meant to last a lifetime and priced at a premium to boot? On the way home, I was already planning a kitchen upgrade.

Fast forward to 2018 and I finally began the kitchen reno. Much of the delay was due to a lack of inspired storage ideas. An easy default for me was to make frames and drawers from Baltic birch but no, I had to become fixated on metal frames with wire baskets! For years, I looked and finally noticed 'Antonius' from IKEA. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S19876454/  The frames are slightly wider than the doors but the pull-out baskets clear the door nicely. Two baskets fit per storage space. The setup is 21" deep that allows room for wires, hoses, etc. behind the units. I had hoped for mesh baskets, but that wasn't to be.

There are many aspects to this upgrade, so here's a new thread with multiple posts focused on each feature. Now on with the reveal. IMG 1
#10
I want to add another door to the side of my 14DB kitchen cabinet so as to access the dead space to right of the sink. Does anyone have a hint where to source the aluminum extrusions for the door and frame?? I should be able to find the latch. The door will be like the vertical in the attached image. Thanks! GK

Update 1: OK, asking help to locate the aircraft style latch as well. :-\
Update 2: Just thinking, perhaps some CL owner has removed the front upper storage area and is just waiting to send a door my way...
#11
It's the dog days of August and slow blogging time, so here's a rather spurious mod except for the mild OCDer's amongst us!

Along with the installation of a HOTT electric element into the 14DB's HWT tank (Suburban brand), I also swapped out the OEM gas only wall switch plate for the gas/electric. The red LED from the former plate was cut into the new panel and wired to the electric side rocker switch to indicate 'ON'. Over time, it irritated me, and also for the sake of symmetry (OCD talking), that the gas switch did not have an 'ON' LED as well. (Most readers will know that the red LED beside the gas switch indicates that the ignition spark (DSI system) is, well, sparking and when the propane has ignited, the light goes off.)

This mod involved purchasing an illuminated rocker switch in blue (reminds me of propane :) ) and wiring the LED inside it to the DSI circuit and the red LED beside it for gas power 'ON'. This involved taking apart the new rocker switch, disconnecting the LED thread-like wire from internal power and routing it outside the casing. Then, the DSI circuit feed was soldered to the teeny LED wire. For stability and to prevent shorting, the connection was encased in hot glue. (see pic)

Feeling less anxious now! Push down the gas rocker switch, the blue LED comes on for a few seconds only. The red LED stays 'ON'. Quite a pretty display when all the lights are on! GK

Postscript: I can hear some thinking, why didn't GK change out both rocker switches for illuminated ones in the first place? Answer: early onset Old-Timers, I shouldn't wonder...besides, I became obsessed with reusing the OEM plate's red LED :-\
#12
Livin Lite General Discussion / Front Window Upgrade?
August 12, 2018, 03:22:55 PM
My CL doesn't let in enough light IMO. Has anyone in LL land ever considered adding or installed a window in the front radius? Attached are 2 pics from other TTs that have incorporated a curved European window. (The brand that LL used before the dark times...) Pros/cons of the idea? GK
#13
Other Brands of Aluminum Camper / Safari Alto 2114
August 10, 2018, 10:01:13 PM
Safari Alto (SA) of Quebec has just released the their largest travel trailer, almost 21' hitch to bumper and an impressive dry wt. of 2400. This SA unit takes all-aluminum TT finishing to an elite level and, alas, an elite price--basic is $43,000 CAD. Though the interior of my TT looks bush league compared to the SA 2114, I take comfort in knowing that in all other ways, my 14DB (at half the price) is SA's equal. GK

http://www.canamrv.ca/rv-inventory/new/travel-trailers/2019-safari-condo-alto-f2114/554004/

Postscript: SA TT's seem to have caught the eye of electric vehicle (EV) forums. SA literature also seems to take into account that the TV's of the future will be electric. There is one report of a SA TT's solar array providing about 50 kms of extra energy for its electric TV. Also, there's a suspicious dynamo looking attachment behind the TT wheel...
#14
I'd like a few more of these mesh bags found in many RV showers including my 14DB. No luck finding a source via Google. Anybody have a lead? Thank you. GK
#15
In the unending saga of upgrades on my 14DB, I present the install of Camco's Tornado black tank flush. As usual, it took far longer than expected, especially all the tinkering to fit the inlet bracket inside a 2x2 piece of aluminum for an OEM look (a black end cap is on order). Of course, there has to be a quick disconnect.

A rusted (gasp) sewer pipe hanger (red arrow) has been a long time irritant. I know steel strap is an easy bend, but it should have been aluminum...and now it is! GK
#16
I thought it would be simple. Unscrew the external side from the internal one-way valve of my 14DB's city water connection and replace the female hose end with a quick connect. If only! I finally had to use a Dremel grinder to cut off the hose fitting and the washer behind it, to remove the unit. With the part out, I looked in vain for a telltale seam where the manufacturer must have press fitted the inner and outer components together through the plastic housing hole. I remain mystified.

OK then—there ought to be an after market one-way valve attached to a female quick disconnect. Wrong again, at least in Google land.

See images for what I cobbled together with a female 5/8" hose end, the old one-way valve and some tubing. Note: (1) I used a quick connect with male thread (2) a typical water hose quick connect seems to be a 1/2" size, but its dust plug is actually 3/4" in diameter. GK
#17
Any cheapo trailer seems to have an exterior LP outlet. It puzzles me why a trailer of CL's quality didn't have it as standard within a year or 2 of the first models. But I digress.

For the aux LP line (orange arrow), I tied into the first tee (red arrow) from the tanks with a coupling (green arrow) and another tee (purple arrow). 5 feet of hose brought me to the quick connect. The quick connect is secured through a piece of 1/8" aluminum* bent 18 to 20 degrees inwards from vertical. A piece of 2"x1/8" square aluminum protects the outlet (a black vinyl cap is on order).

As for the attachment bracket for the BBQ, it just misses the horizontal framing member to which the storage door frame is screwed; not ideal, but the aluminum skin there is very stiff. Beside screws, the bracket is also glued on with commercial strength cyanoacrylate. 2 benefits of this location: (1) it is well clear of the awning (2) should the screws fail, the bracket can still be bolted on though the wall with the nuts hidden behind the frame of the bench. (The BBQ is Camco Olympian 5500.) GK

*actually the piece is cut off one side of the 2" aluminum tube with about 1/4" of the sides left on for stiffening.
#18
In my 'Shake-Down' post, I mentioned finding out what apparently is common knowledge—that RV fridges using 120VAC are essentially useless in hot weather. Inconceivable (like the Princess Bride kind), that RV fridge makers keep selling a flawed product. After all, the fixes aren't rocket science, nor expensive! Moving on, here's my RV fridge mod journey thus far.

For the exterior grill computer fan venting mod, Charles Coushaine's youtube video was my main inspiration https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wVTP89-Btg . I'll add a thermostat for the fans and master on/off switch. As for circulating cold air inside the fridge, I purchased RV Cooling Unit Warehouse's double fan with LED light, chosen because our fridge doesn't have a light and the fans and LED can be wired separately. Most of this post concerns automating this unit.

I knew my LSW (long suffering wife) would give me the stink eye if she opened the fridge door and was blasted by a wave of cold air (if the fans were running). Sure, I could install manual on/off switches for the fan...and the LED, but she somehow knows when I can do better!

Online, there didn't seem to be robust fan-OFF-LED-ON solutions when opening the fridge door. So I came up with Magnetic Reed Switches (MRS), the kind used for window/door security, but also in cabinetry to turn on interior LEDs when the door opens. Some MRS can be wired so that when a door opens, the current flows (called normally open or NO) or conversely, switches off the power (called normally closed or NC). Obviously, I will install 2 units inside the fridge, one wired NO for the LED, and the other NC for the fans. I'll complete automation by installing a low voltage digital display thermostat to activate the fans above 40 deg F or so. Below is a list of components and in several weeks or so, I'll post some photos.

Digital Thermostat https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B076M9JS6P/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item
Fridge Fan/LED https://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-Evaporator-Fan-Greater-inside-Cooling-LED-Deluxe-wGrill-and-Light-P5444060.aspx
MRS https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0735BP1K4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Computer fans https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009XERK6G/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_1
Vent fan thermostat https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCX95U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stay tuned. GK
#19
Despite having our 14DB for almost 4 years, we hadn't taken it out for any length of time or a proper shake-down trip. That all changed in early April as we took on a tour of the great canyons of Arizona and Utah. In no particular order, here is what we found out.
•   A Camplite may be light weight, but towing it seriously reduces gas mileage. I suppose we should be happy to get 14 mpg keeping speed at 60 mph. It seems that aerodynamics is more important than weight. I was also disappointed how often our GMC Sierra with its 5.3L V8 shifted down at the slightest incline. Our former TV, a Jetta TDI, performed better than that while getting 25mpg!
•   Bumpy roads, toilet bowl water on the floor. Hmmm...
•   Why didn't I know that RV fridges running on 120VAC were nearly useless in outside temps over 80 degrees F. Why no built-in heat exhaust fan, Dometic??
•   Though insulated, the CL got cold and warm really fast. That surprised me. On the plus side, the heater was quick to warm.
•   It bothers me that by 2014, CL was still installing cheap ceiling fans in a premium trailer. Fantastic Fan, here I come.
•   I installed the HOTT electric heating rod in my HWT. It was a great propane saver.
•   Speaking of propane, it must be a very efficient fuel for, after 3+ weeks, we are still on the primary 20lb tank.
•   Heavy rain for the first 3 days. All our gear in the bottom storages got soaked. CL could and should have done better with sealing the wheel wells.
•   One shouldn't let the GPS do all the thinking, all the time...
•   The microwave/convection oven is awesome, after a steep learning curve...
•   On our last day, as we bumped along a Canadian 'freeway', the storage compartment over the couch crashed down. (It was lightly loaded!) Looking at how it was attached, I'm not surprised. As for the dinged up aluminum wall panel, we're thinking of grass cloth wall paper, or gluing on a large canvas print of a scene from the canyons.
•   Wherever we stayed, there seemed to be at least one other RVer who came over to admire our 14DB. It will never rust...GK
#20
Thanks to an archive post by whoofit, I installed 2 SS medicine cabinets in my bath. One can still get the Croydex Trent med cabs from Home Depot US for about $50 each. I'm unsure how whoofit had the room to install the cabs in the available wall space above the toilet, I sure didn't. With my dremel, I had to cut into the aluminum corner panel about 2.5 inches. I stiffened the raw edge and covered it with a left over piece of tile edge. Riveting and gluing (with PL Premium) 1/8"x2" aluminum bar to the wall, turns out to be a very solid surface to screw into. GK