Recent posts

#1
Livin Lite General Discussion / Re: Ground Fault Circuit Inter...
Last post by MikeT - March 26, 2024, 04:20:12 PM
I found the breaker you identified at Home Depot.  Unfortunately it is not an FPE StabLok.  I will keep looking.  Interestingly, I noticed that you can buy a 30 amp RV Pedestal that comes with a 30 Amp plug and a 20 Amp duplex plug.  The 30 Amp is not GFCI but the 20 Amp is.  That's not to say that the breaker in the house panel isn't GFCI.  Some of the articles I have read is that 30 AMP GFCI is not necessary but may be coming soon. One of the obstacles is the thousands of campsites that would have to modify their systems to accommodate this change.  My investigation continues!!

Thanks for the info in the Inverters.
#2
Livin Lite General Discussion / Re: Hot weather refrigerator p...
Last post by Merlin - March 24, 2024, 02:29:41 PM
Good work. And good trouble-shooting. Classic install error at LL.
#3
Livin Lite General Discussion / Re: Hot weather refrigerator p...
Last post by Chappy133 - March 24, 2024, 02:03:07 PM
Forgot to add the RV Tech believes both the theromister and board issues with the frig was due to this blockage.
#4
Livin Lite General Discussion / Re: Hot weather refrigerator p...
Last post by Chappy133 - March 24, 2024, 02:01:39 PM
When we bought our 21 RBS used last year the seller disclosed that they had replaced the circuit board for the Dometic refrigerator. 

Last fall I was camped the military campground in Key West in September and October.  The weather was unseasonably hot for the Key.  The refrigerator was struggling to stay cold.  We were using shore power with the frig on auto.  Had a retired RV tech talk me through trouble shooting and we were able to determine it was the "thermomister" probe on the fins inside the frig.  Overpaid for a replacement part from an RV supply company, turns out the same part is available on Amazon for a much lower price, and installed the replacement with some challenges or running the wires to the board.

Everything worked fine until we got back in the heat of the Keys this winter and the daytime temperatures started to climb and by sunrise had barely gotten back in to the upper thirties.

Fortunately for us our neighbor, who are full timers, is an RV tech.  We had her come over and check our refrigerator out and she determined the fan to move air was no longer working.  To replace that fan would require removing the frig to do so and it was agreed to just abandon it in place.  With the use of a step ladder and small electric fan placed at the bottom of the frig with the access cover off to move air up the back over the fins.  This worked well.

I then decided to remove the top vent cover since I could not see any daylight when looking up from the bottom access panel.  Once the cover was unscrewed which was made difficult by someone at the factory thinking it was a good idea to fill the screw holes with lap sealant making the screw removal take four times as long as it should of.  With the cover finally off I discovered that the fins were ¾ blocked at the top by fiberglass insulation.  Appears that when the refrigerator was installed and slide in the insulation on the top sides pushed back and laid on top of the fins greatly reducing convective air flow (see enclosed picture).

With the use of a coat hanger fished through the wire mesh I was able to push and prod the fiberglass insulation off to the sides.  Needless to say the refrigerator performance has greatly improved now.  Stays in the 36-38 degree range now regardless how hot it gets here now.  This is a black trailer with the frig in the sun from late morning until Sunset.

Also installed two new fans.  One at the bottom and one at the top.  Both have a thermomister probe for putting the fans in the auto mode.  A manual mode option is also available. 

Decided to put a squirrel cage type fan on the access panel to pull air in and up: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6T1LLMX?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

For the top vent a more standard type square fans:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NLFDLD1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

So far very pleased with the results. 

#5
Livin Lite General Discussion / Re: Ground Fault Circuit Inter...
Last post by Merlin - March 23, 2024, 08:44:29 PM
Check again on that breaker cost. 2 pole 30A GFCI breakers for 240V power can be expensive, but for your camper you just need a single pole 120V GFCI breaker and here in the U.S. those are only $56US at the Home Depot.

Inverters are different than gas generators. Some have the neutral bonded to the equipment ground, some don't, and some are actually both. They bond the neutral to the ground when you use their receptacles but do not bond those when used hardwired to an electrical panel. It's important to have only one place in the electrical system where the neutral and ground are connected. The operating manual for the inverter should tell you what to do about the ground, so I won't guess.

That's a deep trench!  I suppose the sand is to keep the wire from chafing on stones.
#6
Trailers for Sale / Re: In the market for a 13BHB
Last post by Chappy133 - March 22, 2024, 08:38:35 PM
 :)
#7
Livin Lite General Discussion / Re: Ground Fault Circuit Inter...
Last post by MikeT - March 22, 2024, 07:29:19 PM
Thanks Merlin,

1.  I'll check further into the GFCI rules in Canada.  Prices for a 30 amp GFCI range around $600.00 but I'm still looking.  One of the problems I have is that Federal Pioneer StabLok breakers are becoming obsolete.

2.  In Canada, trench depth is 24 inches from Grade level down to the top of the cable/conduit and then another 3 inches of sand under the cable, so 27 inches.

But, if you are adding mechanical protection by way of concrete or treated lumber (untreated cedar may be okay depending on the province) you can reduce the grade level to cable/conduit to 18 inches + the sand under the cable, so 21 inches.

Both call for 3 inches of sand above the cable but I'm going 6 (I have a lot of sand!).

3.  I saw a ground terminal on my inverter and made me wonder if I needed to ground it when plugging in to the trailer.
#8
Trailers for Sale / Re: In the market for a 13BHB
Last post by buckeyestargazer - March 22, 2024, 12:13:49 AM
Thanks, I've already had two people approach me and one looks like a strong candidate.
#9
Trailers for Sale / Re: In the market for a 13BHB
Last post by Chappy133 - March 21, 2024, 09:46:48 PM
My recommendation is get an RV trader account and put in for an alert for the Livin Lite 13 BHB. Worked for me on locating our 21 RBS.
#10
Livin Lite General Discussion / Re: Ground Fault Circuit Inter...
Last post by Merlin - March 21, 2024, 04:29:47 PM
In the U.S. the National Electric Code requires an outdoor 30 or 50 amp power outlet to have a GFCI. (15 and 20 amp too). It's a minimal cost for important outdoor electrical safety. (Per the NEC)

Generators connected to a building are grounded via the building ground. Generators powering equipment from the generator outlets are grounded via the generator frame and there is no need for a separate ground. (Per OSHA).

Put your underground wire in per code. Where I live local code is 19". Use direct burial wire and/or conduit.