Aluminum Camper Forum

Quick update:  After having it inspected by a trailer repair service, they diagnosed it as a slightly bent front axle (either bent spindle or torsion bar).  Apparently the Dexter Torsion axle system cannot be adjusted or serviced.  After talking to Dexter I learned that these axles have about a 10 year life cycle.  I am going to replace both axles.

I had the exact foam tile which I liked but it degraded and discolored too much and so I  ended up special ordering vinyl plank interlocking tile through Lowes's from Perfection Floor Tile https://www.perfectionfloortile.com which we absolutely love.  Very durable product, easy to install and great insulative properties.  Not soft but it looks nice and locks tite.   Check out the pics.

Looks like Lowe's still sells. 

 https://www.lowes.com/pl/Perfection-floor-tile--Vinyl-flooring-Flooring/4294856531?refinement=4294739638

The picture of the Board is what I took when I was investigating this at Lowes in 2017. 

Thank you gentlemen for the helpful information.  I am going to get the axles checked and will let you know what I found out.  I really think every RV owner should have a tread depth gauge and measure all of the tires, all the way across.  You could look at my tires and think they are fine, but unless you took the gauge and measured, you may not have seen it. 


Merlin, thanks for the information and links regarding Tirerack.  I was unaware how easy it appears to get tires delivered and installed through them. That certainly solves my local dealer issue.  Thank you.

I have attached some other pictures so you can see what I mean about the look. 

Thank you for those excellent comments and suggestions and for confirming my concern about replacement.

I am not entirely sure how to check axle alignment, but the reason I discounted the axle alignment problem was that:  (a) I had gotten 50k miles on the BF Goodrich with no unusual wear; and (b) the inside wear was only on the front and not the rear axle tires.  I also have convinced myself that inside tires on a small dual axle will show more wear because of the dragging which can occur when turning.  Is that correct?  I have attached a picture of the one of the front tires.  I always use a TPMS system when traveling and try to run around 55-57 lbs. (cold pressure) in the tires because I never have close to the max load on the tires @65 psi.  That could be an entire lengthy discussion:  Proper tire inflation.


It is a little disturbing that someone can sell a product labeled "RADIAL TRAIL USA" when it is made in China.  I have attached a couple of things for reference.  Firstly, the quote from the dealer where you can see the title in the document "RADIAL TRAIL USA".  The product quoted is 6H1483.  Apparently, this was a discontinued Radial Trail HD, although my tire dealer could care less when I told him it was discontinued.  His response was that it would be no older than 2021 and was still in stock.  Is that really acceptable?  If tires last 5-6 years before the rubber starts breaking down, is it a good idea to buy 2 year old tires?  I see those complaints on Amazon all of the time (tires being old) and the only way to know is to inspect the tire in person.  Apparently the date code for every tire is on the sidewall, likely represented by some confusing numeric sequencing. 


For reference, I have attached the pages from the Carlisle website (https://www.carlislebrandtires.com/our-products/product-detail/radial-trail-hd/) regarding the Radial Trail and the USA Trail, along with specs about the Maxxis product from their website (https://www.maxxis.com/us/tire/m8008-plus-st-radial/). 


Carlisle Replacement.    It looks like the replacement for the tire quoted by my dealer would be 6H04561 which is a load range D 14" tire.  The specs are not indentical and it looks like the major difference is a slightly lower speed rating.    Curiously, the Carlisle catalogue does not say they are made in USA except for the page entitled "USA Trail" (which is a separate line of tires) but even that appears deceiving since if you read the notes carefully only a couple of tires "have the Sure Trail Pattern.  Made in the USA".  None of Carlisle "USA Trail" tires look like they were designed for higher heat because of the lower speed ratings.

Maxxis.  Truthfully, the Maxxis specs for their model TL00097500 (14" load range D) appears like the best choice, but since you can't get those from any local dealers I was reluctant to order those online.

Thank you for suffering through my ramblings.  I think the issue now is which tire.  I am now leaning toward the Maxxis just because I grow weary dealing with my local dealer who apparently has no issues selling me a 2 year old discontinued tire as new.  Any further thoughts on Maxxis and ordering from them would be welcome. 

It is that time of year again when I start worrying about my trailer tires in contemplation of my upcoming summer travels.  As an aside, I hate that BF Goodrich doesn't make those 14" off road tires.  I originally got the "off road" package and those 14" BF Goodrich AT tires were sweet.  I didn't realize at the time that it was a gimmick because Livin Lite must have got a specific contract with BF Goodrich to acquire those 14" AT tires for the "look" on the new units.  To my knowledge, they (BF Goodrich) never offered the 14" for sale generally.

So, (unless you change rims) the options (for a 14 inch tire) appear to be:  (1) Endurance" (2) Maxxis and (3)  Carlisle.

I put the Endurance on in 2020 and have barely 6000 miles on them and parts of the tire went from the original 8/32 down to 4/32 on the front inside corners (dual axle).  Other places measure around 5-6/32.  (I realize they need rotated and I may have had an inflation issue, but I doubt it) .  I doubt I would buy another Endurance.  Yes, they ride and corner nicely and are very stable, but starting with 8/32 of original tread should have been a red flag.  Losing almost 1/2 of the original tread in 6000 miles is also ridiculous. Truthfully, I never liked the Endurance because of the skimpy tread, but nothing really could compare to the 15/32 of the BF Goodrich AT.  The Endurance also had visible belt bulges on the sidewall when they were brand new!

My local tire guy gave me a spec sheet for a "105 CAR RADIAL TRAIL USA", product 6H1483 which has excellent specs:  (a) 8 ply; (b) 1820 lb (dual) at 65 psi; (c) a load speed rating of 105N; and (d) supposedly made in USA.  Original tread is 9/32.  I went to look more closely at the tire at the Carlisle site and they weren't listed and so I called Carlisle and they told me they discontinued that one.  I am not sure what the replacement is, perhaps Carlisle 6H04561?  Contains similar specs, also 8 ply, load 2040 per tire.

So here are my general questions:

1.  I am taking a 6000 mile trip this year.  Should I replace the 14" which have as low as 4/32 but averaging slightly over 5/32 tread?  Does tread matter that much on a 14" wheel if the wheel is in good shape (and assuming it is over the legal limit of 2/32)?  My Endurance tires still look great.  They have been covered, dressed and cared for, but still show high tread wear given the low mileage.

2. Anybody have Carlisle or Maxxis?  Thoughts?  Opinions?  Problems?  Are Maxxis and/or Carlisle "Radial Trail HD" made in US?

Thank for reading this and giving me any feedback.  I am leaning in favor of replacement for peace of mind and will likely go with the Carlisle tires unless I am persuaded otherwise.

I appreciate all of the comments.  At this point, I am going to try to fix the Dometic RM2554. I will however, give serious consideration to a DC compressor frig if I have to replace the entire unit.

I am usually out West in the Summer at high elevations, with low humidity and low nighttime temps so the gas has worked better.  As stated, the cooling unit failed three years ago (under extended Dometic warranty) and they replaced that (i.e. cooling unit)  but not the control board, thermistor or any other components.  I added the fans after the cooling system failure and used the fans to vent hot exhaust gas out the top.  It has generally worked ok.  Never great but usually will stay below 45 degrees on gas.

This year, when I tested for our initial road trip inspection (pre Covid lockdown) it wouldn't cool on gas below 47 in Florida.  I cleaned the flue burner tube, the orifice and the baffle tube.  Still no improvement.  Next, I considered the Manonometer test and decided to simply replace the regulator.  I wasn't comfortable either building or buying a monometer and testing.  I do note that Dometic states that there must be 11" Water Column of pressure at the refer test port.  So I changed the old single regulator with a dual tank regulator up front.

I took several vids and a picture to compare the burner flame height and size pre and post and I can confirm improvement, however, I have not conducted the test and cannot confirm 11 WC.

I have now purchased a new control board (upper and lower) and a new thermistor.  Most recently the refer was getting and staying below 32 on electric (during a trip to Illinois with slightly lower temps).  No such luck on gas.  I have also added the Rockwool mineral wool (although thanks for the baking pan suggestion PDX David).   Also thanks to GrampaKilt for the information from arprv.com.  I will check it out.

So, I guess I will replace the control boards next.  It never has worked on DC mode.  I am also hopeful that this will help.  Any further comments and suggestions are appreciated!

Unfortunately, when Livin Lite installed the refrigerator they did not provide a roof vent, but relied entirely on the two side vents.  I have attached a picture of the inside of the cabinet.  As you can see the top of the cabinet is the bottom of an inside cabinet.  There is no vent.  It is all non-vented. 

When they installed it they also left over a 1 inch gap on both sides and the top.  I put some mineral wool on the sides and top since I posted the last picture.   That has helped a bit but not much.  The fans have been there for awhile and usually get the temps down, but not this year.  I have been measuring temps and it was never able to achieve a 50 degree variance between ambient air on gas and the inside box temp.  The best spread on gas was 43 which wasn't bad, but not great.  On electric, it would get below freezing in the box and would achieve between 48-53 difference with the ambient air.   In my most recent outing, I couldn't get the temperature in the box while on gas below 45 degrees with an outside temp between 80-90.

At this point, I am not sure how to proceed.  Probably the best option is to install a roof vent, but I have no idea how to do that so I am a little bit uncertain.  Perhaps others have encountered this problem?   Maybe the fans are pointing in the wrong direction?  Should they push the hot air out or force air over the coils?  I have seen pictures both ways.

I had to replace tires on our 14 DB this past year.  We bought it with the off road package when it was new and it had the 14 inch wheels.  At that time they made the BF Goodrich AT for 14 inch wheels.  Here is a picture for those that aren't familiar with that tire.  We have taken the trailer from Florida out West 4 times, each time over 10k miles per trip.  I can't tell you how much I loved those tires.  This last year we decided to replace the tires because they were starting to show signs of cracking.  The tread was still very good.  I really didnt't want to change them.

I couldn't find any off road tire for a 14 inch wheel.  I ultimately went with the Endurance, not the Marathon.  Too many bad reviews on the Marathon.  My first impression of the Endurance is disappointment.  Even though I did look at it prior to purchase, it is shocking how little new tread life was built into the tire.  I don't remember the specs, but it is not impressive.  I haven't had the trailer on the road this year (bc of pandemic) but frankly don't expect to get more than a couple of years out of the tires.  If I can't find a 14 inch off road in two years, I will probably change rims (go with 15inch--if I can) just so I can go back to the Goodrich AT.   I can't seem to find a picture of the Endurance tires, but if someone wants to see them give me shout.  Another deal point for me was to have a load range D tire.  I would not even look at a load range C.

I am wondering if anyone has any ideas to help me get my Dometic RM 2554 refrigerator working better on gas.  My camplite DB14 is a 2014 and I had problems after the first few years with it cooling.  I took it to a dealer and he told me the space between the box and the refer was too big and I didn't have any ventilation.  I put two 12 volt fans in the back and that helped but a few years ago the entire cooling unit failed.  It was replaced under warranty and has worked ok for the past couple of years.  Recently, it stopped cooling on LP.  It works on AC (cools to around 37).  I changed the LP regulator (at the tanks) and it now cools down to about 47 on gas but that is it.  I have cleaned the orifice, the burner tube and the flue tube but is still not cooling properly.  Also checked the board and the termistor and they appear to be functioning.  I haven't checked the LP pressure at the refer, but the flame is burning hot and is noticeably better since I changed the LP regulator. I am kind of at a loss at this point short of taking it to a service tech.  Any ideas would be appreciated.  I am kind of wondering if I have the baffle in the right position.  The service manual states that the baffle is supposed to be 1 15/32 above the burner.  It is kind of hard to determine if I have it right.  I have attached a picture of the baffle placement although I don't think that is the problem.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Oh, I should state that I am trying to test it in Florida and it is hot and humid and never really cools well down here, but it should get colder than 47 on gas.   Thank you.

ps I am starting to think this was just a poor design on the refer layout.  Probably should have a roof vent for all of that heat.  Has anyone installed a roof vent for their refer?

I had a problem with my Dometic Rm2554 refer.  It worked on AC but not on gas.  After troubleshooting the refer, cleaning the burner tube, flue, etc., I read where it can sometimes be insufficient flow from the regulator.  Changed the regulator and sure enough, the problem was solved.  Refer now works on gas.  It was cheap enough and not difficult to change so that was the route I took.  I suppose they could be repaired, but for $50 it is probably better just to change it out.  I am not sure how long they are supposed to last.  Mine was the factory installed Fairwinds and lasted 7 years.

David,

Thanks for putting this thread together.  I hope others will share and more importantly I hope many will read and think about risk minimization in the coming months.  It is going to be extremely important for people (esp. high risk) to exercise great restraint and avoid thinking everything is back to normal.  "Flattening the curve" doesn't mean the virus is gone.  It simply means we will not  (hopefully) overwhelm our health care system until there is a cure. Now, perhaps, if you have already contracted the virus and your body has built up an immunity to the virus, you might be ok.  Unfortunately, testing is not widely available to know if you already have it and have developed an immunity.  Moreover, it is my understanding that there have been cases of people reacquiring it even after testing positive, being "cured", and then testing negative.  The information I have seen suggests that you can get the virus and it remains in your body.  If you get more exposure on the road, you allow your immune system to run down from the stress of travel or exercise (or perhaps over indulgence) ,  you could become more vulnerable to reacquisition. 

A few final points:

Public restrooms:   Someone (perhaps it was you) mentioned the whole issue of using public toilets.  I agree.  IMHO, it would be completely out of the question to use public restrooms.   If you are not completely self contained that would be a problem.   That means if you have a Quick Silver without a pot or if you are a tent camper, you are in trouble.

The evidence out of China and elsewhere suggests that transmission can occur through urine and feces.  We all know that public facilities are more often than not unsanitary on a good day.  Imagine what it will be like now.  I really feel sorry for all of the janitors out there.  Imagine being a camp host or a park service worker and being asked to clean a public toilet in this environment.  Many private concessionaires require their hosts to clean restrooms as a part of their lousy deal for a free site. You couldn't pay me enough to be a janitor now and I suspect many camp hosts (who often times get no pay-only a free site) may decide not to even show up this year, or if they do, they will likely do an even worse job of cleaning.  It is highly unlikely that they will have PPE (ie gloves and masks)  to clean and you can't find cleaners, sanitizers or toilet paper.  There will be no TP in the pit toliets this summer. 


Healthcare on the road.  This is a real hot button issue for me because of my disdain for our for profit health care system.  It is also a topic that you and others have mentioned and this could spark an extensive amount of discussion.  Suffice to say, as we all know (whether you want to admit it or not) our healthcare system in the US is THE most expensive in the world.  For many RVers and full timers (who are not on medicare), getting sick on the road (which in many cases is their home) could be a financial disaster even aside from the question of whether they can find healthcare.   This last year my brother had to be airlifted out of the Carribean to Miami in connection with a diving accident.  His bill for treatment in Kitts and St Nevis, air transport to Miami and hospitalization in Miami was over half a million dollars.  He is a doctor and had the foresight to have special insurance, but sadly most do not healthcare for unexpected illness and injury while traveling.   In the US, (and unless you are on medicare) if you are fortunate enough to have insurance, you can be treated out of network for emergencies and it is required to be covered under the ACA.  (Not so for some of the newer BS plans that the Trump admin is letting insurance companies sell).  However, deductibles can be and usually are, considerably higher while out of network.  There is also generally no coverage for transport back home. Additionally, you have the whole issue of having your RV stuck in some remote location.  How are you going to get it back and who is going to pay for it?  Most people, I dare say, don't purchase coverage for return transportation for themselves, their travelling companions and their rigs.

Inconsistent travel restrictions and self quarantine.    You could be delayed, detoured or prevented from getting to or from your destination because of locally imposed travel restrictions.   (I also think that in states where they have done a better job in social distancing), driving through a small town with a Florida trailer tag could be quite unwelcome given the poor job FL did in containing the spread of the virus.  I have already heard complaints from my midwestern friends about people from Florida spreading the virus.  (In Florida we just blame the New Yorkers).

With respect to self quarantine, it is not fun to get sick on the road, particularly in a Livin Lite 14DB.  Enough said.

I could go on, but I have rambled enough.


Bottom line.  Yes you can camp if you are self contained, don't go far, avoid stores and strangers and exercise great care.  Truthfully, I am seriously envious of the cheap gas prices out there.  Imagine filling the truck or RV up and paying less than $1.50 for a gallon.  Last year near Lassen NP, it was $4.29.

Be safe! 

My wife and I live in Florida and traditionally go to the Rockies for about 4-5 months every year.  This year we had been diligently making reservations as the booking window opened, starting in NM and working our way up through NM, SW Colorado, Utah, WY and Montana to Glacier and then back. It was quite a trip and we had all of our reservations confirmed.  We have hiked in these areas for many years.  Then Covid 19 brokeout. 

As we all know, this is a a disease which is highly transmissible, incurable (at this time) and  capable of widespread community spread.  Our public and private health care system is incapable of testing all of those displaying the symptoms and those who are  asymptomatic but are carriers.  Thus, there is not now and likely will not be any way of determining where it is and where it will be going until people start showing up in the ER.   According to the experts, (and certainly if it is like the 1917 pandemic), the first wave will not be the worst.  The second wave in the 1917 pandemic killed more people than the first.  Thus, unless and until we can test everyone (which we can't), we develop herd immunity (when we reach a 40-50% infection rate) or there is a cure, it is likely to be like fighting a fire.  It will flare up in one area, go down, and then resurface.

Traveling on the road is not just about social distancing and thus if you go on any trip for an extended period, you are going to need to travel through populated areas where the virual load is heavier, you will need to re-provision at stores and you will need to go to a public laundry mat.  All of these areas present risks.   When you go in a store, you will need to have a mask and gloves and clean all packaging.  When you go into a public laundromat, you can't assume that there is no COVID 19 on the surfaces or in the washers and dryers just because people aren't in the building.   It can stay on surfaces for hours and these surfaces need constant disinfection.  There may also be shortages of goods while on the road as the supply chains continues to experience significant disruptions. Also, because we are over 60 (even with no comorbidities), we are at a higher risk.   

For all the foregoing reasons and others, we have regrettably come to the conclusion that this year's trip is a no go.  We will likely stay at home the entire summer, except possibly for short trips.  An additional factor for us Floridians this year is that this year's hurricane season is projected to produce several major hurricanes.  For the last several years, we have had to rush home in late August to deal with weather events.  I am open to anyone telling me why I am wrong, but I just don't think it makes sense. This summer will be a time for home and rv projects and planning a trip for the following year.

Quote from: DavidM on January 14, 2017, 02:39:24 PM
It looks to me, after comparing Zonzin's photos with almost no clearance and Happyhiker's pics above, that LL installed the wrong axle on Zonzin's trailer. He needs one with more down angle. Work with your dealer to get LL to replace those axles.

Further support for this theory: Look at Zonzin's label. It says SA: 10DT. Happyhiker's says SA: 32DT. So Zonzin has a 10 down axle (10 degrees maybe) and Happyhiker has a 32 down axle (32 degrees). Don't add a lift kit. Replace the axle.

David

Good observation David.  I think you spotted the critical difference.  I am attaching my original spec sheet for my axle and it states the arm angle is 32DT.  So yes, it seems the solution is to make LL put the correct axle on the trailer and not add a lift kit.

Quote from: zonzin on January 08, 2017, 12:44:26 AM

Quote from: tco2612 on January 07, 2017, 11:24:15 PM
My 2014 11" with off road package has more clearance than that. I have taken mine off road in Canada and the UP with out any issues.I do have to watch for low limbs in some spots.

Would it be possible for you to take a picture of the label on your axle? I would like to compare with mine.


Zonzin,

I purchased the Off road package for my 14DB in 2014.  Here are some pictures.  I didn't measure the clearance, but as you should be able to see from the pictures, there is several inches from the top of the tire to the fender well.   The specs on my axle appear similar to yours, but truthfully I don't know how to read the label.
.

Thanks everyone for the responses.    I neglected to mention that when I went to pick up my trailer at the factory in March of 2014, Don Neufelder (who was a super nice guy) provided me with a number of tubes of caulk.   I am attaching a picture of what he provided.   I never used the caulk and it is probably stale by now, but I do see the Manus 76-AM that Davidb mentioned.  Truthfully, I have no clue which tube of caulk goes where on the trailer and so if anyone has some thoughts that would be great.  I am trying to educate myself on different caulks and sealants and there is a lot to learn.  I did find a good discussion over at the Airstream forum: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456/sealants-summary-116214.html.    I am going to continue my research on the topic but I am somewhat leaning toward the Dicor, but remain undecided.   I appreciate everyone's suggestions.   Just to re-iteriate.  The job I have in mind is more proactive than anything else.  I just want to re-caulk the roof and possibly the orbital front edges.  Of course, once I get this figured out and get good with the caulk gun, I am sure I will be caulking everything on the trailer.