Aluminum Camper Forum

I'm going to upgrade to 2-6V golf cart batteries on my 2018 CL 16 DBS.  Will the battery indicator still read correctly (or as accurately as it does now) with the additional reserve power?

Are there any changes I need to make to the electrical system--or just wire the two 6Vs in series?

Thanks,

Thanks for the reply, ADR.  If I understand this correctly, it means you could only access it with the slide closed--if removing the side panel.  From instructions gleaned from YT videos, you can (sometimes) override the mechanism by entering a code on the control module, in order to get the slide closed, which means being able to access the module with the slide open.

In that case, you would have to remove the front panel.

I'll do that with mine and see what I've got.

Michael

Thanks, Martin.   Unfortunately, I don't have that panel where you do.     Felt for the wiring behind the moulding on the slide, and it seems to go down under storage space at bottom of slide, so I'm guessing the control module is there--which means, you have to pull off the front panel near the floor to access it.   Way to go, LL. 

Has anyone here had need to access the control module, or had any trouble with their schwintek slides?   

Thanks,
Michael

I have a year and a half old (2018--last year) Camplite 16DBS.   Having no trouble with the slide, but was watching some videos, and learned that there is a control module somewhere.  The wiring for the slide goes through the wall to under the shower pan--so, though I hope not---I'm guessing that's where it is.  I have that space pretty well sealed up, and never looked for such a module before I did that.

Can anyone tell me if that's where it is?   The other wiring from the back of the trailer feeds under the sink where the water pump is---and I don't see a module there.

Hope everyone's doing well with their Camplites.   I've had no problems with mine, with about 8000 miles on it.  Have had it across the country (from NC) once, and going back again this summer.

Michael

Continuing my efforts to simplify my winterization procedure, I looked up what Dometic has to say about their toilet water valve:

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Component_Manuals/Toilets/Dometic_310_series_manual.pdf
====
Winterization and storage
When a Dometic toilet is stored for long periods of time or may be exposed to temperatures below
freezing, the toilet must be winterized or stored according to one of the following procedures.

Option 1:
Non-toxic Antifreeze Winterization
(recommended method)

1. Pour antifreeze in potable water tank according to instructions from antifreeze manufacturer.

2. Flush toilet several times until antifreeze has flowed completely through toilet.  For toilets with
    hand sprayer, the hand sprayer must be turned on to assure antifreeze is cycled through the
    sprayer.

Option 2:
Drain Water from Toilet

1. Turn off water supply to toilet.

2. Remove water supply line from water valve.

3. Place a small container under water valve inlet to catch draining water.

4.Press flush pedal and allow water to completely drain from water valve and vacuum breaker.

5. Leave water line disconnected until threat of freezing temperature is past.
======
This second method is a bit simpler than removing the water valve.

This is what I'll do this winter.   If it breaks, I have a back-up, but since Dometic approves the method, I'm thinking it wont break.

Quote from: DavidM on November 16, 2017, 08:28:20 PM
Some years ago in a different camper but with the same plumbing system as LLs I was camping on Lake Tahoe in mid October. It got down to 24 that night.

It did fine. I ran the cold and hot water for 5-10 seconds each, every time I got up to go to the bathroom to make sure- maybe twice. And we didn't leave until it got above freezing at about 10:00 that morning. Driving at 60 mph at sub freezing temps will quickly freeze the pipes if it is only a little below freezing.

On the old LL site there is an extensive discussion of winter camping ideas. Everything from circulating hot water through the pipes, insulating the pipes with 12V heating tape to putting a skirt around the bottom to keep it warm underneath.

But a quick overnight drop to the mid 20s and then back up the next day will usually be ok.

David

Thanks, David.   Good info.  And encouraging.   

Quote from: Pinstriper on November 16, 2017, 07:01:39 PM
I doubt that last inch of water is below the intake for the pump.

I drain, then run the pump until it sucks air, then blow the lines out.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks, Pinstriper.  That's the obvious and simplest thing.   I never thought to check how much water would still pump after draining.  Just assumed it would be a lot.

The two times I've winterized so far, I tilted the trailer toward the drain to get as much as possible---but it was obvious that was going to be a great big hassle if I was already set up.     

I want to be able to winterize quickly while on the road.  Still working on my system.

Camped two nights at Davy Crockett State Park in Limestone, TN this week.  Got down to 30F.  I put away the water hose and used the tank, and had no problems.    I'm thinking 27-28F is about as far as prudent with water in the lines.  Anyone with experience in colder temps?

Quote from: DavidM on November 16, 2017, 06:41:31 PM
Even if you leave an inch of water in the plastic tank it won't break anything when it freezes.

David

I believe that, but an inch of water will still pump, won't it?  So you can't run the pump dry.

One step I've never heard mentioned in winterizing is:  tilting the trailer toward the fresh water drain.
It can be level, left to right, and the tank will not drain completely.

I suspect it SHOULD drain completely when level, but it does not.

Comments?

Quote from: Merlin on October 27, 2017, 08:58:26 PM
My 16TBS was built in the fall of '14, so I'm not sure if what I know applies......but......the shower pan you stand on is an extremely thin plastic that would never hold you up if there were nothing underneath at all. Most likely the floor has the heavy plastic support (about 1/2" thick) that does flex a bit. Under the heavy plastic support sheet is supposed to be a few vertical supports that rest on the floor of the trailer and are spaced just often enough to hold up the heavy plastic sheet. If those were missing, you would get the symptoms you have. If you don't mind a bit of detective work on your own, the side of the shower base is removable and you can look underneath to see what's going on. It takes a flashlight, a #2 square drive, and some contortions to get down there as I recall. I had to completely redo my shower base because of a mis-aligned drain.

It's odd the wall behind the TV flexes. In my camper, that's a well-braced wall with special extra 1" square tubing welded in to bolt the bracket to. If your wall flexes +1/2" when the TV is on there, I would get that checked out at the dealer. Maybe a weld broke or wasn't done. That may eventually cause wall failure; that's a lot of flex!

Under the shower pan is exactly as you described it, though I can't tell of what material or how thick the "subfloor" of the pan is.  The aluminum support frame is there, though why they didn't add two more cross-members and make the floor relatively rigid is a mystery.  I may add a couple of shims sitting on the floor, to firm it up.  The flexing could cause the drain to move enough to cause a leak, and there is wiring under there--I assume from the tail lights.

RE: the TV,
I added an oak board across the width of the wall which vaguely resembles wainscotting and it firmed up the flexing of the wall a good bit.   The TV is still out of level, mostly due to slop in the wall mounting bracket.   I'll work on that sometime--will need to machine the mounting screw holes in the TV mounting bracket to rotate the TV to level.

Two issues that I have some criticism of in our new CL:

The shower pan (floor) has no support under it--other than (obvously) around the perimeter.  At only 175 lbs., when I step from one spot to another, there is significant flexing, and I am concerned that this will be a source of problems sooner rather than later--either fiberglass failure, or plumbing loosening and causing leaks.

The trailer was shipped to me with last year's TV mounting arm--which was ridiculous.  It did not allow turning the TV toward the living space.  It's limit was parallel to the length of the trailer.    After mentioning this, a new articulating arm was sent--the new model for 2018, which indeed allowed for plenty of movement toward the dinette, but weighs so much the TV is 3/4"-1" off level when extended.
This isn't a tragedy, but the blocking in the wall needs to be significantly increased.  As it is, the wall flexes at least 1/2" when the arm is extended.

Have not found anything else so far that I regard as a defect.   Of course, the door lock sucks, the sink is too shallow and the faucet set is super-cheap.  But I wasn't expecting much more than I got.  I think the trailer is solidly built--for a 3400 lb. unit.  No problems so far with leakage (in two serious rain/windstorms) or plumbing problems.  Everything works.

Have changed tow vehicle since I first posted.  The old Durango wasn't the powerhouse I thought it was.  I have pulled an equivalent weight to the CL, but on largely flat terrain and without the height of the CL.
In any case, upgraded to a '14 Ram 2500 Tradesman, 5.7L.   

The transmission and the tow/haul mode really make a difference, and it pulled the 16 DBS up a significant mountain grade with ease.   And with 4WD, good AT tires, and a limited slip differential, I'm looking forward to some mild off-road camping.


Have a couple of issues I want to mention on the CL, which I'll do in a separate post. 

[/quote]
Regarding tire sizing, the middle "75" number correlates to tire height (aspect ratio). The higher this number, the more sidewall height will be, and therefore more true lift. The first number "225" id related to the width of the tread (section width).
[/quote]

Yeah, metric tire sizing is complicated, and I always have to refer to a chart to remember how it works.
As I understand it, both the first and second numbers are relative to each other, so "235" is not a clean dimension, but relative to the "75".

See: https://tiresize.com/comparison/

If this is true, there is .6" difference in overall height between a 235 X 75 and a 225 X 75, and that is what my comment was referencing.

Thanks for the info on other tire options.  Gonna run these Chinese tires around the southeast this fall, and replace them before I head cross-country, probably in the spring.   I'll be asking for recommendations for boondocking spots then.   

The first place I see potential problems with clearance on my DBS 16 is the rear jacks, which look like they are just waiting to ground out in a deep wash.    Might need to become 'removable' for some trips.

Thanks for the reply.   Yes, airing down is at least a possibility in our future, though I don't have any experience off-roading---we do want to get out into the deserts of the SW.  Towing with a 2500 series Ram Tradesman 4WD, which looks lifted, but they tell me it's stock.  Good clearance, anyway.  Running Goodrich ATs on it, and currently some Chinese mud-tires that came on the trailer.

Have been considering Goodrich Endurance STs, but they only come in a 225 X 75 X 15 (trailer takes 15"), whereas current Chinese tires are 235, and I don't want to lose any height.  On the other hand, my feeling is that the straighter the tread, the better the mileage,  and it's a long way from N.C. to Utah. 

What do you think about the relative strength of sidewalls in a compromise like the Goodyear Wrangler?
All tires in the sizes we're using on trailers are going to be C-rated, I believe.

Enjoyed your trip account very much.   My wife and I are just beginning our trailer camping, and have a new '18 16DBS--with the "off-road" package.   

A question for you is-- do you get any benefit from having off-road tires on a trailer, other than possibly getting a little more height from them?