21BHS Inverter Install

[Nealcrichard@gmail.com]

I just completed the installation of a 3000 watt inverter/charger in my camplite and I figured I would show everyone how I did it in case anyone were thinking of adding an inverter/charger to their trailer.  Maybe you can get some inspiration from my project.

First I started with the addition of a lithium battery.  I chose a 200AH battery off amazon for about $1000.  I went this route for weight reasons as it was about as heavy as my previous deep cycle battery.  As you can see in the photo I had to move the propane bottles up 3".  I haven't checked my turning radius but  it doesn't look like it will be affected. I also have a generator in case I need to run the AC or charge the batteries.

Next I went with a 3000watt IC series inverter/charger from etrailer.  This was a hefty $1600 if I remember correctly.  I chose the 3000 just in case I needed to run the microwave or keurig for a short period I had the setup that could handle it.  It even runs the AC but not for long,  that's what the generator is for.  I decided to install it as close to the battery as I could but still in a location where I can easily control it,  I chose to put it below the bed as the wiring was easy to run the 2/0 gauge wires that short route below the trailer to the tongue.  To keep the inverter cool,  I added a thermostat fan system from AC Infinity which I bought from Amazon.  This system is designed for entertainment systems but allows you to set the temperature when the fan cycles.  The fan is whisper quiet as well.  I added a thin wood veneer board to isolate the front and rear of the inverter.  I did this so the aftermarket fan would force air through the unit and not just around it. I'll evaluate this modification and may remove the isolation board at a later time.
I ran some 10/2 romex inside of a flexible conduit to and from the breaker panel below the fridge.  Now the shore power is diverted from below the fridge to the inverter under the queen bed,  the return feed from the inverter reconnects to the breaker panel.  I disconnected the shore power battery charger because the inverter also charges the battery.  The 12V feed to the fuse panel was diverted from the tongue to the 12V bus in the inverter area.  I did this so I can disconnect all of the power to the trailer with a single switch.
While wiring up the unit,  I decided to add a solar controller.  I also got this unit from etrailer.  I will add solar panels at a later time and I wanted the unit to be prewired.  I wanted to be able to charge the battery even when the disconnect switch was off so I wired the solar controller upstream the disconnect switch with a 30A inline breaker.  I can open the breaker to prevent the battery from being drained by the controller if I chose.
I will be testing it out within the next month on a weekend trip, any updates to the configuration I'll keep you all updated.

[DavidM]

That inverter/charger probably charges at 100, maybe 150 amps. Is your battery rated for that much charging current? Does it have a LFP setting?

Those are my two concerns. Otherwise it looks like a good setup.

Oh, but on a non electrical point, that looks like a huge tongue weight. I would definetly upgrade the coupler rating and make sure it is installed with the extra bolts- see the Newsletters for details.

David

[Nealcrichard@gmail.com]

Thanks David,

The inverter has many charging settings,  I will make the adjustments tonight based on battery recommendations.  As far as the tongue weight goes,  my model is a 2015.  I will check on reinforcing the tongue but I thought it was the later models?  I didn't add the generator stand, it was installed by the previous owner by a local dealer.

Neal

[DavidM]

Neal:

Here are some coupler/frame issues to check out:

Sometime late in the production run, LL (Thor actually) eliminated the center member of the frame which goes from the coupler back to a cross member in the middle of the frame in front of the axles. I can't be sure looking at your pictures whether it has this frame member going all the way back. I can see it near the coupler but it may end before going far back. Your model year probably indicates you are ok because the recall only applies to 2017+ 21' campers. LL recalled all of these with the short frame member and reinstalled a full length member and rewelded all of the joints that were cracking.

In addition to this issue your coupler may not meet the load specs of the trailer. Yours is probably a 5,000 lb coupler which is probably less than the GVWR of your trailer. And it looks like it has not been modified to add bolts through the frame in the front which can result in bending of the coupler without them. All of these issues are discussed in the Newsletter article here: https://mailchi.mp/03023e6b11ed/repairing-or-preventing-a-bent-coupler

At the very least I would add a couple of bolts through the coupler to the frame as discussed in the above article to prevent it from bending.

With the heavy tongue weight on your trailer which may be 500 lbs or more, I would check these issues out carefully. Also consider if your TV is rated for 500+ lbs of tongue weight.

David

[GrampaKilt]

Well Merlin, if you're reading, I guess you now know what is next on my list of upgrades. Thanks Neal for the excellent tutorial and DavidM for the precautionary advice. Once more, since the items are pricey, I'll may need to do some heavy negotiations with my LSW for the go-ahead! GK

[Merlin]

Well Merlin, if you're reading, I guess you now know what is next on my list of upgrades. Thanks Neal for the excellent tutorial and DavidM for the precautionary advice. Once more, since the items are pricey, I'll may need to do some heavy negotiations with my LSW for the go-ahead! GK

Ha! Me too. What fun. I've actually been looking at the new line of Xantrex inverter/chargers because when I replace my now 7 year old dual AGM batteries, I plan to go with a single LiFePO4 battery. This thread will help a lot with ideas.


My question to Neal is about adequate circuit breakers and fuses. I just want to make sure that in the various bypasses and new wiring it's all safe. There's a bunch (to use a technical term) of current and voltage involved in this install and it looks there's wiring involved with the genset too.

[Nealcrichard@gmail.com]

Thanks David for the response.  I will certainly look into information provided regarding the tongue/frame issues.   

[Nealcrichard@gmail.com]

Thanks Merlin for the questions.  I have installed a DC 400A fuse on the supply line from the battery as specified by GoPower.  I have also installed a 30A inline circuit breaker between the solar controller and the battery.  As far as the AC input goes,  the AC in is wired directly into the inverter which is equipped with a 50A breaker.  The output AC power is limited to the power of the inverter when on battery and just a pass through when shore power is connected. The AC out is wired directly into the breaker panel 30A supply main breaker.  I followed the wiring diagrams provided by GoPower.  Any suggestions to improve my configuration I am open ears.  As always I appreciate everyone's input,  this forum is a great tool for exchanging of ideas and learning new things about our trailers.

[Nealcrichard@gmail.com]

Also to respond to one of David's first questions, GoPower has a tutorial on YouTube for setting custom charging settings for Lithium batteries.  I followed this guide and the battery is now at full charge.  You were correct with the assumption that the charge settings were not adequate for lithium batteries.

[Merlin]

Thanks Merlin for the questions.  I have installed a DC 400A fuse on the supply line from the battery as specified by GoPower.  I have also installed a 30A inline circuit breaker between the solar controller and the battery.  As far as the AC input goes,  the AC in is wired directly into the inverter which is equipped with a 50A breaker.  The output AC power is limited to the power of the inverter when on battery and just a pass through when shore power is connected. The AC out is wired directly into the breaker panel 30A supply main breaker.  I followed the wiring diagrams provided by GoPower.  Any suggestions to improve my configuration I am open ears.  As always I appreciate everyone's input,  this forum is a great tool for exchanging of ideas and learning new things about our trailers.

Without seeing a full wiring diagram, I would be just guessing, but what you have written so far sounds ok for short circuit protection. I was surprised at the 400A fuse in the 2/0 inverter input, but in looking at those GoPower specs, it seems it can provide 4800watts for a few seconds, so that's 400 amps at 12 volts!

I need to start specing out my system for when RV stuff goes on spring sale. I'll follow your lead on some of this, but with half the battery and inverter capacity probably!