Aluminum Camper Forum

 The bicycle won't be lonely anymore. This is what I bought the toy hauler for.

2017 Beta Xtrainer 300, already modified the suspension to lower it my short inseam.  Not yet ready to ride fast but I am loving it.

So I had an interesting issue when trying to sanitize the fresh water tank this past August. I found out the water inlet has a small spring loaded back-flow preventer.

I could only use the winterization port for sanitizing the fresh water lines themselves, but not the fresh tank or the pickup line from the tank to the pump. I ended up having to use a drill pump, which took forever to get 5 gallons of bleach and water solution into the fresh tank. The back-flow preventer has a decently strong spring and the small drill pump had no real power to overcome it.

Wondering how I can cheaply get the bleach water solution into the fresh tank this Spring? Drill pump was just to aggravating to use. Thought of one of those siphon pumps, but haven't used one before so I'm not sure if it can develop enough pressure to siphon 5 gallons in to the 100 gallon tank.

 I don't care for cleaning and waxing cars, but I do it once or twice a year to preserve the paint.

I never cleaned the exterior of former campers, and I also had no sheltered storage or covers. If there was bug/tar splat on the nose, I would generally clean that off once or twice a year.

Does anyone get on a ladder and clean the entire exterior, then wax? I know we SHOULD do it but does anyone bother? My toy hauler is super white, I am not sure if general dirt will show very much. But I already see the darn streaks from the plastic/rubber trim pieces. What's up with that? Cars don't have those streaks from their moldings, why do campers do it?

 I installed a small medicine cabinet to replace the wall mount mirror. And also installed a 12V USB charging port nearby for phone and tablet.

So I still have a few things I'd like to see in my toy hauler. I peruse the internet looking to swipe other clever peoples good ideas!!

1) Quick connect propane sockets one inside near the kitchen for my portable MrBuddy catalytic heater and also one outside for a propane grill. I'll have a plumber so them, and also install ball valves on each to guarantee no leaking. I would just open a couple windows a half inch in cold weather, and the roof vent slightly, and that little heater runs 4 hours on one pound bottles. Super quiet and no electricity used. Ideal for long cold stays.

2) Under the frame sliding drawer. I've seen this done on other campers and I have the needed dead space in front of my froward axles to accommodate a large drawer. It would be nice to put camp items like chocks, blocks, ramps, in outside storage instead of under the bed.

3) A new aluminum tongue storage tray cover. I paid $350+ for mine as an option, and it is too low to fit my Honda EU2000 generator!! Bummed.. I'll pay a local aluminum welding shop to fabricate a new one that is 8-10 inches higher to future proof for a 2400-3000 watt generator and fuel can.

4) Install a new sewer tube carrier. The stock Valterra tube is short and the cap is just plain awful. I had a D&W on my former camper, awesome tube and it fits a 15 foot Rhino Sewer tube easily. Haven't figured out exactly where to put it yet. I need to make a bracket for one of the clamps.

5) Buy a decent cheap 32" LED TV, gut the 120VAC plug assembly, and make an appropriate mod to run it from 12VDC. I can do it, and my brother is also an electronic nerd like me. I'll make it happen.

6) Hangers. Hangers. And some more hangers. For clothing, cookware, large utensils, mugs with handles. There are no hangers in the toy hauler.  Well not entirely true, there is a very short one in a closet near the door. But really small.

7) Vinyl flooring in the bathroom!!! Darn bath mats just float all over underfoot, what an annoyance!! And possibly vinyl floor the entire toy hauler. With strategic cutouts for where I place tie downs.  I can throw my carpet runners over the vinyl when camping they roll up small for storage or taking indoors for vacuuming.


I'll take the time sooner or later to take pictures of the things I have already done.

 First post in the new Aluminum Trailer Company (ATC) subforum.

I ordered my ATC 7X20 in April, and tried to take delivery in mid May, HA fat chance. Problems right away. But fate, or terrible communications (really it wasn't my fault), caused a huge problem with what I was supposed to get. As a result my trailer had to go BACK to the factory for modification.

I won't rant here about the deep reasons I had to wait that long for my trailer, but suffice to say that it took almost 3 months for ATC to make it right. After I actually took delivery in mid August (finally), I have had to make a few modifications and additions to the camper.

First I will lead off by describing what I had to do to make things "right" so far. A couple of items that any maker of living quarters trailers should do:

FINAL QUALITY CHECK: Or at least make each department very aware of their responsibilities. My furnace was making a racket on 1st delivery. I knew the fan was contacting the shroud. I have had experience with camper furnaces and I had one apart for a similar issue and resolved it myself. So ATC didn't hear the issue, and my dealer also did not notice. I was also told "that's what they sound like".. No, they don't sir... So one week later, a NEW furnace is installed and it's quiet.

BATTERY PREP: It came with one battery box for a 12 volt. I didn't want that 12 volt, I installed two 6 volt GC batteries (Trojan T-105) instead to get as much juice as possible. It took a couple of days for me to properly install a 2 GC box, and  vent it as well. Made my own cables, it turned out great. I also ordered a 150 watt solar panel option for the camper, so the batteries are always peaked off. No charging before a trip. And dry camping with no hookups is possible, I don't really have any 120VAC needs, except maybe someday I'll want the A/C. I'll have to decide if I want to lug a generator, or pay for camping with electric at that point.


MIRRORED MEDICINE CABINET. Removed the cheap $6 wall mount mirror, cut out the wall, framed with aluminum angle, and installed a cheap $30 medicine cabinet in the same location. I may in the future frame it out a little more solidly but for now it works for me. I have somewhere to put toothpaste.

USB CHARGE PORTS:  Why, oh why, are there NO charge ports. The only 12V accessory socket is in a kitchen overhead cabinet in the ceiling and it's meant for a TV option I did not want. Very inaccessible for plugging a USB charger for the phone or tablet. I don't carry a ton of tech with me, but a phone needs charging, and not everyone will be camping in a campground. I had to again, buy a USB charge panel with voltmeter, 12V port, 2 USB sockets, and power switch. Wire the whole thing into a voltage bus that I bought to make extra low voltage fused circuits. The result looks great.

TOILET PAPER HOLDER: I mean c'mon... Spend a giant chunk of money on a quality aluminum unit and NO TP holder??? And the funniest thing is, there is absolutely NO logical place to install one at all. The toilet, being in a corner and facing out diagonally, means that the walls adjacent to the toilet are both behind you, and there are almost no walls there at all to mount a holder anyway. The large floor to ceiling closet  door opens flush to the vanity. A TP holder would drastically interfere with the door.

I am planning to make a fully recessed box out of composite fiberboard plastic, and install that box into the lower part of the vanity, so the door cannot hit it at all, but the TP will be right there in plain view and use.

ELECTRIC HAPPIJAC BED: Yes it's nice to be able to get the bed out of the way to bring a motorcycle into the toy hauler, but because they are made for two bunks, even if you only order one bed, it creates a HUGE space problem. The upper bunk options are left installed. These prevent the lower bunk from reaching the ceiling (5 inches of wasted space. SO I had to duck under the bed when it is fully up. Bah.

I definitely wanted the bed nearly as low as possible for sleeping (who wants to climb into bed using a step stool, what am I, 10 years old?? No, I am not..). This meant the upper trolleys that would normally carry the bunk had to go. Which meant after MUCH investigation that I had to cut them in half using a jigsaw. Then wrangler the two halves of each trolley out with pliers. FINALLY the bed lowers to normal height and also goes as high as possible, no more ducking a few inches and some head room underneath. It should be this way from the factory when ordering ONE bed.


I'll finally get to take it on a mountain bike trip this month. Hopefully no more issues.

Here's a couple of outside pictures.

 SO, I wish wish wish I could get a definitive answer on this one. Has anyone actually measured the tongue weight either at the coupler or the tongue jack? I would like to know the empty weight without water. Anyone use  a Sherline Tongue scale??

With propane and battery (or 2). No water or some water. NO cargo - EMPTY. Any toiletries, towels, kitchen stuff is fine. I just need to know a close number to figure out if I would get safe around 700 pounds of tongue weight unloaded. My limitation is tongue weight. My tow vehicle can pull 7700 pounds. (2013 Touareg TDI).

I realize most people will pul these toy haulers with a pickup truck and usually rated much higher either tow weight or hitch/tongue weight. I want to desperately avoid buying a tow vehicle, as I have no real way to have two vehicles. I am single and like it that way. I don't want two vehicles.

Both LivinLite and ATC sell nearly identical 7X20 trailers. I am finding it hard to believe the few  weight numbers I read, and salespeople seem to sidestep every direct question about the tongue weight which makes me uncomfortable.

Calling out to actual owners for some much needed info!!!

 So I don't own one yet but I am looking at a 7X20 toy hauler, and intend to transport only one motorcycle and myself across the country. My current vehicle is enough for a 7X20, but no larger, and I don't want a  larger 25 foot box trailer either, storage would then become an issue.

I have not been able to get good answers from websites or sales. I want to know what owners do about sleeping and eating in the camper while travelling. I do NOT want to move the motorcycle in away way during the trip, so what version of sleeping arrangements and also what option for dinette would owners recommend? I can't even see a 7X20 optioned the way I want and I am being told that the folding dinette/bed cannot be ordered with a happijac as well because they interfere.. It was recommended I use a folding table and chairs for eating in the camper??? C'MON!! Seriously??

The happijac bed can be used as a bunk, I can drop it several inches over the motorcycle and use a step stool to get on board at night. Fine.

But what about a place to eat, write, laptop, read, have a coffee... Anyone have thoughts on this with the same problem?