Aluminum Camper Forum

Good to hear from you! Here is a thread with 3 different links that will likely have what you need (with a bit of poking around the sites).

https://aluminumcamperforum.com/index.php?topic=1554.msg11068#msg11068

I just got the lube and did only the track. However, I wondered about the big rollers on the bottom

Thanks. I ordered the lube and will do that when it arrives. Good info.

Funny you should ask. I've had a set of these sitting in my camper parts box for 10 years because I couldn't figure out how to install them on a 16TBS. 

Nice solution. Looks great.

Thanks for posting the window info!

This is a copy of a previous post of mine. It still holds true today.

Other members on here who have lost the kitchen window have had little luck finding a replacement. Most folks have found a similar size but different brand window and figured out how to fasten it on. Check etrailer.com and rvupgradestore.com as well as doing a general search for RV windows of that size.

Here is one source that others have had some luck with, but not original equipment.

https://www.rvglass.com/

And my only suggestion is to create a one page list of everything to check before getting underway. I've never had a latch come undone that was properly fastened.

Thanks for reporting back and the info on the tank. That looks great, and a much better mount than the original.

Sure. If the old sealant is clean and sticking well, I've just taped/caulked over it. I have tried to not end up with a place where water can pool.

@charliem

Good work. And good trouble-shooting. Classic install error at LL.

Check again on that breaker cost. 2 pole 30A GFCI breakers for 240V power can be expensive, but for your camper you just need a single pole 120V GFCI breaker and here in the U.S. those are only $56US at the Home Depot.

Inverters are different than gas generators. Some have the neutral bonded to the equipment ground, some don't, and some are actually both. They bond the neutral to the ground when you use their receptacles but do not bond those when used hardwired to an electrical panel. It's important to have only one place in the electrical system where the neutral and ground are connected. The operating manual for the inverter should tell you what to do about the ground, so I won't guess.

That's a deep trench!  I suppose the sand is to keep the wire from chafing on stones.

In the U.S. the National Electric Code requires an outdoor 30 or 50 amp power outlet to have a GFCI. (15 and 20 amp too). It's a minimal cost for important outdoor electrical safety. (Per the NEC)

Generators connected to a building are grounded via the building ground. Generators powering equipment from the generator outlets are grounded via the generator frame and there is no need for a separate ground. (Per OSHA).

Put your underground wire in per code. Where I live local code is 19". Use direct burial wire and/or conduit.

I order all my tires from the Tire Rack. I've never had an old tire from them. They are owned by Discount Tire, but do a much better job of on line sales. I just take the tires to my local Discount Tire for mounting. And, trailer tires should be balanced. Be sure to ask because they don't do that automatically.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?zip-code=48840&width=185/&ratio=80&diameter=13&rearWidth=255/&rearRatio=40&rearDiameter=17&performance=ALL

I second the EternaBond tape, especially for large cracks or anywhere caulk is missing completely. It's good stuff.