Aluminum Camper Forum

We have a Dometic RM2554 3-Way Refrigerator that has stopped working. Control panel in front works. Propane, DC, and AC works and comes on. I took a multimeter and check the 2 glass fuses and the 30 amp slotted fuse and all good.  It is getting AC and DC power to the control board in back.  There appears to be no ammonia leaks.  The hot side is getting hot, but cold side is not getting cold. Attached is a picture of the back of ours.  Is there any pressure switch, or valve that can be reset, or anything else I am missing?  Thanks in advance!

We bought the Andersen Hitch to get ready for our long trip.  I installed per instructions with a 1 1/2" higher than level as instructed and went light on the tightening of the chains. I lowered the jack but it did nothing but stayed 1 1/2' high.  Called Andersen and they said lower the ball which leveled it but still no weight transfer to TV.  Took it out to see what it will do test drive, no weight in front (no propane, nothing under bed, no water etc, and back box weight full) and it minded its manners with little to no wag, and would handle one reasonably harsh avoidance manner, but had to back off immediately on the second one.  (I was on a wide, safe deserted road).

I went to a nearby campsite and filled up the water tank, loaded the stuff back under the bed, and completely unloaded the box on back. Did the same tests and it did a little better doing a modest secondary avoidance. But all in all not really much better than the sway bar. Recovery from a harsh sway at speeds was really not comfortably there. Several pictures back and for and long calls with Andersen and many adjustments to chain tension and it's really not much better. Did notice the trailer has some yaw on curves with the hitch (not going fast, but enough to feel roll in opposite direction that I didn't feel before). Will take curves a little slower.  Also felt every bump the trailer hits, which I think we could get used to, but not preferred.

Summary, Andersen help minorly with drivability sway but not severe sway so we returned it.  I got on the Internet and started googling "Still have sway problems with Andersen" and noticed the people in general having the most issues are us with the lighter aluminum and fiberglass trailers and then I came across two different proactive sway controllers. The first was GPS controlled and the second was Tuson.  We bought the Tuson and I installed it and it works great. Wow, Proactive sway control makes all the difference in the world! I could throw the TV into a hard serve and the trailer would immediately go back to center, to easily make a second evasive move if necessary.  It works by applying the brakes only on one side or the other to counteract the moderate or harsh sway. They recommend still using the sway bar for light sway.  They work well together.

I spoke with technical support for some time with pictures for us to figure it out on a Camplite because it must mount on the center line, but there is a 3" square support beam there. We decided on the battery tool box because of the stout angle iron bracket on the bottom, but also I had to add one to the top for stiffness and no flex.  This worked well.  He also commented they are getting lots of request for these on very lightweight aluminum and fiberglass campers that are misbehaving.

The other good news is this test with our full load in the back box but about 45 pounds lighter.  I had a full water tank with the new braces and a 33 pound iron Olympic weight front center under the bed and configured as loaded for the trip. I only put it on the ball with safety chains, no sway control bar only for this test, or no load distribution (which we don't need or use) for testing and with the rebalance it had no sway, properly loaded with all that extra weight up front. then I purposefully tried made it sway, and I could not. I could see the little light signaling that it was controlling it. It is amazing how fast the trailer lines up behind the TV. Finally under control and very satisfied!

Didn't notice until recently how severely rusted the driver's side rear jack was. Guess it was acting as the anode for the whole trailer. That, and the step. Didn't notice the step because it had rusted badly under the paint. Anyway thought about replacing the jack, but it was thick enough metal to retore. Treated with Naval Jelly and Rust-oleum Primer and Paint, and painted the rest of the jacks in good shape while I was at it. Strip the step and repainted as well.

Our 16DBS with the rear deck (probably the problem and guessing why they were not available on later models) always has a little sway.  Do not have this issue with anything else we tow, even heavier. I studied it to no end and don't have any answers, but I can live with it as long as you mind your  p's & q's not an issue for me, but the mrs. says something must be done before a 7000 mile trip this summer. We are open to any suggestions.

When we picked up our camper we purchased a Reese light/medium duty weight distribution hitch.  Did not know about Andersen at the time, but probably doesn't matter.  After towing a few times, lighting up the spring bar tension each time until they were just hanging, so we don't use them, the spring bars made sway and the ride worse. Seems like way overkill for the size of the load being towed. We put approximately 100 pounds on the bed up front, half fill the water tank, under storage compartment full, Blackstone, etc., to put as much weight on the tongue as possible. Also 2 6 volt golf cat batteries up front Also keep about 200-300 pounds of gear in back of our Tahoe tow vehicle. Vehicle sits slightly high in rear with the camping gear we always leave in it.

I put the camper on the hitch and it drops it 1 1/4" and sits perfectly level, it does not phase it much with
its 600 non distributed stamp load on hitch. Weighed hitch weight with one full bottle of propane and unknown in other and no water and it was 390 pounds. Guessing the toolbox that contains generator 20lb propane bottle, sewer hoses, misc. on the back with Blueboy is 325 lbs. Added 2" lift to get in and out of gas stations from rear deck from scrapping, and adjusted hitch height to compensate. Swayed the same before as after lift. The camper dry weight is 2990. I'm rounding to 4000 lb with water, gear, etc., which is about half of the Tahoe's rated capacity and does not burden it a whole lot when towing.

There is always a slight wag, passing cars and trucks make it sway, wind is really tough, and dips in the road makes it sway. Makes my wife uneasy. I don't think I need to tighten the sway bar anymore. It's almost if the trailer is too light!

Thinking about adding second sway bar and filing up the water tank more.  Showed wife the Hensley Cub and she wants me to get it, but anything with that rated vehicle with that light of trailer seems like overkill and it is pricey.  Any ideas would be helpful,

Our sofa has seen better days and was thinking about 2 small wall hugging recliners to take their place.  Has anyone done this and have any recommendations? or a good sofa replacement? Ours is a 16 DBS. Thanks, and happy camping!

We are having a significant leak when it rains with the slideout out but not when it is in while traveling. I have examined very closely and don't see a gap or hole, but fills up a small tub quickly. I stuff a plastic store bag in the corner and it stops it, but I'm afraid of forgetting and closing it with the bag in there.  Anybody else experiencing this leak? Any suggestions?  Thanks in advance!

Its been a while, and hope all you fellow Campliters are doing well! We need some help with flooring suggestions on the aluminum floor. We put down those interlocking dense foam tiles that have worked great, even at 9 degrees, but they are looking rough now.  I thought I would that popular interlocking vinyl flooring over it, but after taking it to a couple of flooring stores, they both said it had too much flex and would not work.  We don't want to give up the cushioning and insulating value of the foam tiles.  What have you all done? Picture of issue attached. Thanks in advance!F

We towed our 16 DBS about 80 miles in a moderate steady rain and by accident discovered a water leak behind the sofa, along the seam along the floor of the slideout, when reaching for the broom we store there.  There were probably only a few ounces of water along the whole back seam. Upon examination, I notice some gaps in the original caulking seams in the frame (square trim around slideout) of the slideout, so re-caulked hoping that will take care of it.  However, I noticed when fully close there is a slight bow on the left side with a 1/4" gap at the widest (just about in the middle) where the rubber gasket does not meet the side.  I could see how rain could be force in the gap easily at highway speeds, but the inside seal should keep this out and I would think the water would be noticed on the main floor and not the slideout floor.  Is there any cause for concern and anybody else's similar?  I have attached pictures of close up of the gap and wider view of the slide out, plus a picture of the frame where I caulked with that messy, hard to work with Geocel caulk. I sealed the wheel wells shortly after I got the camper so don't think that would be the problem. Thanks in advance for any advice or help.

We recently got back from a week of great camping in the Smokies.  We had to stop by Camping World on the way out due to a leaking Dometic Toilet Valve.  I was checking everything out before leaving, and after what I thought was a thorough winterization, we had crack valve from freezing.  Both Camping World and online reviews said these valves do not do well with blowing out the lines with air and recommend RV Antifreeze.  They also said to buy 2, which we did, because they fail often and can ruin a camping trip.  I will probably remove the water line to it and use a shop vac after winterizing with air this year.  I figured i would mention it and hopes it helps before someone else has the same issue.

We were surprised how crowded the park and campsites were. Very few sites were open before regular season and they did not take reservations yet.  My son joined us for a couple of days and biked the loop and had a nice visit!  We met a wonderful couple Steve and Dana from the forum!  Weather was great and so was a day hike I did to Spence Field on AT where I talked with several through hikers.  We saw lots wildlife in the loop including a bear with 2 cubs.  The week flew by and we didn't want to leave.  We are already planning our next trips.

I have been following the old forum for awhile and didn't join because of it's pending demise.  So very glad to join here, especially seeing all of the old post have been archived from the old forum.  My wife and I enjoy using our 16DBS very much, even in the winter as it is parked at deer camp.  Thanks for everyone's valuable inputs and experiences!